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Turn To The Left - Weeds https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=kuwqBTtksXE&list=OLAK5uy_ndYGasfVeThrrJk_kGaM6kSd4Ex5auxSw

Try here my friend. https://thegita.co.uk/product-category/all-guitars/all-bass-guitars/

The speaker specs will tell you the maximum cone excursion, Xmax, which for this driver is 5.5 mm. Sometimes they give a separate larger figure for the excursion where damage will occur, but I think if we go past Xmax that means we’re into the realm of abusing the speaker anyway. So the cone should move at most 5.5 mm forward (or backward) from its rest position, add a couple of mm for (waves hands) stuff, and I guess that should be fine. I don’t think the size of the holes matters acoustically, but guess the percentage that is hole rather than not hole might do? I’d say picture what a speaker grille usually looks like and go for something not too different from that. You want to avoid the grille vibrating too much at an annoying frequency, so I would probably mount it as rigidly as you can. I screwed mine to blocks round the edge of the baffle and one in between the speaker and port and that seems fine.

I wish they wouldn't too, but at least on that with the dark wood it doesn't show as much as when it is maple.

No need, the resistance of even 1mm2 copper core is less than 0.02 ohms/meter. And as John says the amp rating for cable is based on continuous, sustained current. That means running it at that rating for long enough that it reaches temperature equilibrium, and failure mode is by melting the insulation. You just wouldn't ever reach anything near that in a speaker. Given that flexibility isn't that useful or desirable inside a speaker, I just use offcuts of T&E after tripping off the outer insulation

Have I the right - The Honeycombs (with a Burns endorsement 😁)

Please explain your signal chain a bit: is the OD after the bass, do you use wireless, or cable, what's the bass... OD/dist/fuzz may behave in a different way depending on the bass output impedance (hi-Z, or lo-Z). I have different pedals for different basses. It took quite a long time to find a suitable fuzz to a lo-Z bass (i.e. with a battery powered preamp).

I get that. I think I probably misunderstood the thread title. I thought it was suggesting soldering the wires into the terminal, not just adding solder to the wire ends.

Irony being if Lovetone bring it back they will probably be buying the bbd chips from … behringer!

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I'm guessing Behringer aren't going to do the Lovetone flanger with the question mark on, that thing was nuts, a lot of fun.

Given there’s not much new in analogue electronics, and given we are in a topic about behringer …. I think that counts for lovetone as an original adaptation of an existing topology! Something like the 3leaf Photon is similarly a refined version to the point it becomes its own thing

Another awesome Ibbi finish ruined yet again by the truss rod adjuster and the patch of exposed neck at the end of the fretboard - I wish they wouldn't do that!

Loved the 2605 - I had one when they first came out, but in the end when I was cutting things down, I had the 1605 and the 2605 and the 1605 was my first love (and not so harsh) so it had to go

My new to me SR2605 in Cerulean Blue burst