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There's no easy way of answering what the push/pull pot is doing...and with the amount of solder around and about, whether anything is shorting...but that is the bit where there is some sort of out-of-phase stuff going on, I am sure. Looking at the two other pots, it looks like it started off as a standard neck vol/ bridge vol/ master tone set up. It is - and can be - a fairly straightforward circuit (see the Fralin P/J circuit below) So I would suggest that the only pot you need to change is that push/pull one. Just fit a standard tone pot / capacitor instead and wire up exactly as above where the two whites from the pickups go to the respective middle position of the two existing volume pots, the two blacks from the pickups are earthed, as are all three pots, and then a simple feed from the middle pin of the tone pot to the 'hot' peg of the jack socket, and earth to the other one.

New pickguard arrived! From Earlpilanz on eBay. I sent the original in and he matched it. Great service and great quality product very much recommended. Glad I went for the parchment inbetween the black as it matches the body colour perfectly. I have to say this looks flipping brilliant and I am so chuffed.

I thought there was a video of my old mob doing Atomic. Turns out it was Hanging on the Telephone; harumph! I’ll share it anyway, not the greatest recording, but OK.

Well, they did back when the anti-brexit guy was there, and they would try to move their stuff around so he wasn't in frame, but he always was. Well, thats always going to happen when you mention thatcher in a tory meeting (or I guess now reform)!

Sometimes the Downing Street OBs provide great entertainment.

I Just bought a Sire U5 bass of Gus..Arrived safe and sound..Total pleasure to deal with..Thanks Gus👍

Use an Ashdown ABM600 Evo IV or a Trace Elliot TS1200 with a LySys Monaco (8Ohm) I guess I'm comparing 300Watts vs 600Watts @ 8Ohms The volume seems remarkably similar.

Get a guitar one , a friend of mine had an absurdly expensive all valve usa one which sounded great with his bass with tweaks. Alternatively get a Behringer v bass rackmount preamp for 135 quid and see if it works for you😁😁

… love it, great idea 👍🏻

No. They don't. There will be a THD% accompanying the X Watts at 1kHz. That will tell you how much distortion the amp suffers at that output. The lower the better.

Just in case: https://headphonedust.store/

As in it might get in the way of one's technique rather than a lack of technique?

I got divorced. That solved that.

@JPJ She is her New House. She spend rest of her life in recording studio - the best place for her Beauty. She works perfectly. Tone is beautiful - fast, punchy, clear, articulate and aggressive if needed ...and much better than in any other SWR (I had almost all models). This is simply the best bass amp in the world for Clean HIFi sound. Because of symmetrical Tuner Our working as Second DI and symmetrical FX loop - She is ultimate studio AMP. This allows recording both DI and Post EQ and perfect work as power amp for reamping and for other preamps. I mix DI and post EQ signals on FX loop plus add a little bit of Bass intensifier and therefore no modification of Aural Enhancer is needed - She have tons of low mids - which was always a problem with SWR. Very clever engineering. The said She will always love You. I take of her - she will record many albums with great music I hope.

I quite happily practice at home with a Tecamp Puma 900 - a 900W class D head - into a Barefaced Supermidget. It's not too loud....the amp has volume knobs - they work both ways. I use the same rig in rehearsals but on larger stages i replace the Supermidget with my Super12T.

It certainly looks nice, I don’t think I’ve ever played a slab body before, with it having no contours it can’t be comfortable I’d have thought

@godathunder, I think you are asking right questions. First of all, class D amps are measured in a different way than old A, AB, or B class amps. Then the distortion figures may differ a lot from manufacturer to another which offers a big variety to publish watts. Watts are funny, because everybody understands one figure - that is only faintly related to loudness. Where are discussions about sensitivity (dB @ 1 W/m), loudness (dB), frequency response (50 - 4000 Hz ±6 dB) and so on? The only reasonable way to measure loudness sure requires a system (amp + cab). Sometimes it would be very eye opening to arrange an open air test session where anybody could bring a system to the place and then someone with decent equipment and noise source would make measurements.