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Unfortunately I would send it back.

Just got an email that my delivery is pushed back to the 5th week!

I play Classical guitar, so perhaps that's the same reason for me too. I haven't played for a few years, but have just restrung my Ramirez with the intention of getting back into it. I'll have to get used to the treble clef again!

You could play Alright now up around the 25th fret on the D string?

It was a Mexican.... One of my favourite live albums... an outstanding bass performance too! https://youtube.com/shorts/UWCFP3DMP-o?si=x6ZRBmq0_7SFK9ss

I had an M6 5 string delivered yesterday. I've never really been great with setups and would appreciate some advice from someone more competent. Initial sounds were nice, B was definitely useable but didn't blow me away with stability like I'm guessing a 37" would, but overall happy with that aspect. The action was quite nice, I didn't measure, but seemed reasonably low, but there was all sorts of clank and buzz on the lower strings in the first 5 frets. I sighted down the neck and it appeared to have a back bow, more so on the treble side. I checked the relief by fretting first and last and the strings were touching against every fret. I put the allen key in the truss rod and realised it's been tightened up loads. I loosened it a 1/4 turn to try and relieve a little tension, and after a few minutes the action at the 12th was about 5mm. Doesn't appear there is enough adjustment left in the saddles to get it down to a reasonable action. To me, this suggests the neck angle is wrong? It was a B Stock model so I wondered if the initial owner wanted low action and had just cranked the truss rod, but then I saw a review on Andertons - translated from French: Curious what other people would do. I really want to like this bass but low-ish action is quite important to me, and I don't want something that is potentially flawed. Thanks Simon

Nothing unless you’ve positioned it very carefully and you’re also very careful with the bass. My Chadwick required the post be removed and reinstalled with each breakdown, simple job due to the design. If I were modifying a standard bass now I’d also engineer a device to install between gigs to keep the soundpost in place 👌

A Stagg EUB could be the perfect entry ticket then, Dave?

Keep us posted on how Kiwi's neck is as i have looked at the thread on BC. Dave

Must admit the double bass thing has been creeping into my head recent years but would probably go for the more slim line versions rather than the full bodied DB mainly because of space to store it when not in use. The Bass Cave just aint big enough. 👌 Dave

I posted here a small amount 15 years ago, and now I intend to rejoin properly. I used to play bass in an indie band and wanted to conquer the world. I then realised I enjoyed the technical side more than playing, and made my career touring doing all sorts of things - mostly as a lighting designer. Favourite client was lighting The Specials for a few tours. I now work off the road in R&D for the concert touring industry, developing and training the technical side of live events. I've started playing bass as a break from work, and joined a soul band. I picked up a cheap P and put flats on it, and I'm now picking up a second dual-humbucker bass for some of the more modern stuff.

I have absolutely no idea what's going on there. Less said the better i reckon 😂 Dave

WOW that is truly gorgeous. Enjoy and have fun. Dave

This smells like preventative maintenance to me. Nah, I'd be inclined to ignore this.

This example is a T1 for me - it's going on a bass pedalboard. It's being used with a bass. There is a certain "spirit" to this challenge which should be upheld, and use case is an important factor otherwise we'd have everyone claiming that every pedal which is not specifically marketed as a "bass" pedal is a T2. Nah, I'm not having it. People gotta be honest with themselves. If you fire bass signals through it, it's a bass pedal. Come on, you're fooling no-one I know this is a bit of fun, but that is a principle I am going to stick to in any of my adjudications. Yes, Neep is the mean judge, the one you hope you don't get, the one with the gavel worn down to almost the handle...

On an unrelated point - I seem to be getting loud crackles and pops coming through my home RCF monitors when the set up has been left on and unattended for a couple of hours. It's now happened on a several different occasions over a period of weeks and occurs when it's just the desk connected up to the monitors, which pinpoints it as being a desk issue (or possibly a monitor issue, but I would have thought less likely). Any particular reasons why this might be occurring, or just likely to be a fault with the desk which needs checking out under warranty? In which case I'll get it checked out with Andertons whom I got the desk from 15 months back.

That gets very expensive very quickly. Fine if it's your own money, but the record companies aren't going to live with that if it's taking months to record an album.

He does cover that aspect in the SBL podcast. He seemed genuinely concerned about exposing someone wrongly, whether he was doing the right thing, and checking and double checking the facts over several days.

Still really happy with the steal of a used buy of my LTD (ESP) B4-JR. Just 28.5" scale length, maple neck, with rosewood fretboard and a basswood body, 24 frets. Perfect for A standard, tenor bass, tuning (that is as in the 4 upper strings of a 6 string bass in regular B standard tuning). Strung with Elixir Nonoweb guitar strings, which got the perfect length, of the gauges .068 - .052 - .038 - .028. Sounds no short of amazing with the stock pickup swapped for an EMG Geezer Butler P.

Have the Guyker clones and also the genuine East knobs, there's not much in them and the Guykers feel great. FWIW I did try to buy the genuine ones but there's never stock so clones it is.

I recently acquired one of these, a Tribute version, and I wonder if anyone has a spec setup for it, there doesn't seem to be one on G&Ls site and a quick search on the Guitars by Leo site just brings up a spec from Ed Friedland for his M or is it L 2500 which isn't directly comparable being long scale, 5 string, and twin pickup. Just asking because the MFD pickup is a bit different to the single coils I am familiar with. I'm planning on popping some Nylon Tapewounds on, as I don't play roundwounds (too clanky and hard on the fingers for me) that are on it. I'll figure it out but always useful to have a base spec to start from. Thank you for reading

I think I am out. I just dropped my fretless TRB of at a luthier to have the fingerboard coated. Or does that count as maintenance?

Hi i I have just purchased a Stingray Special with a compensated nut. i believe they ship with a 45-100, I’m wondering if I can fit a 45-105 with out any nut adjustments. I don’t want any strings binding Thanks for your help