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Most definitely. In my classic rock band we do stuff that we like and which stretches us as musicians. They are excellent songs which are great to play but I’d doubt many audiences would last our set out.

I guess another major factor is what you play. Mainstream genres will get more gigs than accoustic free form blackened industrial death skiffle.

The A&H has an external 12V 5Amp DC PSU It seems to go off when unattended rather than in use, although there were a few crackles at the venue last night, which worried me, but our guitarist thought it might have been a loose lead. I managed to take a quick clip of it crackling yesterday, and you can just make out that there are spikes on all the channels when this is occurring. A&H CQ18T crackling.mp4

I'm having a clearout of stuff for hobbies that I no longer have time for and/or lack ability! I don't want the hassle of dealing with splitting all of this up and selling bits individually here and there for a few quid, so I'd like to pass it on as a single lot to someone who's interested in film photography. You can either collect it all from Skipton, North Yorkshire or I can box it up and send it to you for the cost of postage (postage payable by bank transfer, UK postage only). I can't guarantee that all of the accessories are compatible with the cameras you see as there's lots of bits I've collected over the years - but most should be 😀 Here's a partial list: Minolta X-300 with MD Zoom Rokkor-X f35-70mm f3.5 lens Minolta Dynax 505 si Super with 28-80mm f3.5-5.6 lens Nikon F65 with AF Nikkor 28-80mm f3.3-5.6 lens Minolta MC Rokkor SG 28mm f3.5 prime lens Light seal replacement kit for the X-300 (light seal is okay at present but will need replacing eventually) Neewer Speedlite 750iii All of the cameras were working fine but have been stored for a while, so I'd recommend running a test roll of film through them before shooting anything important. Any questions please DM but I'm not keen to waste time splitting it up.

Swan swan h. Rem

As part of building the Basschat 8" cab, I needed (wanted?) to rebate some handles into the side. I didn't want the handles sticking out too much so wanted to put a 2mm deep rebate in. I suppose in the old days, highly trained craftsmen would use hammers and super sharp wood chisels and make a wonderful job but would take seven years learning how to do it. I know my limits so I do it the easy way using a 3d printer to make routing templates and routing bushes for a cheap handheld trim router. The basic principle here is that the template protects the area outside of the area to be rebated and provides a simple template that even a novice user with a router can use. The complication is that you have a spinning piece of metal (circa 30K RPM) that cuts the wood, but you don't want it to cut the routing template. That's where the routing bush comes in. A routing bush slots into the router and runs against the edge of the template to ensure that the routing bit doesn't hit the template and trash it. I'm not going to get into the routing bushes, apart from saying I make my own as they are dead simple and I don't want to pay £17 for a set of brass ones that I'll only use one or two off. Many people, myself included, struggled to understand how the routing template is calculated and rather than using maths, I'll demonstrate it using simple diagrams. Step 1 - Get an outline of what you want to cut out. This is the handle # and this is the outline of the handle backplate. I know the corner radius is 10mm as I have a little set of corner radius tools that cost about £3 to buy. I've drawn this in Fusion 360 below. 2. The next step is working out which router bit to use. As the corner radius is 10mm, you could theoretically use a 20mm diameter routing bit, but I tend to use an 8mm for most things as its smaller and easier to manage. So we'll assume an 8mm bit. If you use an 8mm bit, you need a router bush that is a little bigger, so I would use a 12mm router bush with a 1mm thick wall 3. So I can either calculate what to do using a fairly simple formula OR I can draw it out to demonstrate to simplify it. I've drawn an 8mm bit in the middle of the area I want to cut out. Now if I had a really steady hand, I could possibly trace a line to do this, but thats not a good idea, so we have to protect the area to be routed. 4. So I draw a circle to represent a 12mm router bush, thats below. Technically that router bush is 1mm wider than the radius of the router bit. However the 10mm is the inside of the router bush, we are interested in the outside of the router bush which is 12mm, the wall of the router bush is 1mm thick. The outside of the router bush is 2mm, this means that the template for the bush to run against is 2mm wider than the actual area. 5. So we offset the actual size we need to cut by 2mm, that's the red line below. The red line is just Fusion 360 showing the offset and means nothing else We now have the inside of the template done. 6. It's relatively easy now to create the outside of the template, here's a 20mm wide outside. The wider the template, the better it gives the bottom of the trim router something to keep it vertical. 7. I add in little 'V's to help placement 8. If I now extrude this in Fusion 360 I get this 9. I'll edit this after printing it and showing the template in use.

Panda will be at the NAMM show next week with a preview of the big update we’ve been working on.

Oh, yes, I forgot to mention the ritualistic sacrifice at the end of the evening! 😉

Brings back thoughts of this.

This is light hearted, and as we're all just playing it doesn't take into account foreign regimes, imperialist land grabbing etc. A bigger obstacle is how skint I am regarding buying new musical gear. As my tastes are firmly stuck in the past: Fender doing a new range of USA made p bass/ j basses with the Fullerton shaped headstock. They would come in a few different custom colours ( they'd need to dust off an old '70s catalogue and look at the back page) per calendar year; I.e LPB alongside say black, white , sunburst and maybe an international series colour like cherry burst or orange for example. The non black / white / burst colours change every year. For about £1500, just a dead basic '70s copy, like a well made s/h one.

No point. @neepheid will buy them all first.

To be fair there are lots of different types of charities, and I think being asked to perform and donate expenses etc is a different story depending on who's asking! I've done a lot of freelance work for big NGOs with huge support, regular funding and large budgets in the millions. Their events are usually sponsored by various businesses and organisations, and well-budgeted for, so I'd expect to be paid something as part of their budgeting for services for the event. I can donate too obviously, but separately. I currently work for a small charity that is really dependant on individual giving and securing small bits of funding. We've built some reserves but we operate almost paycheck to paycheck on modest salaries just above the living wage. There are plenty of other charities that exist in the health services and community sector that have to constantly bid for grants/funding to keep running. Performing for a fundraiser for my charity and others like it, I wouldn't expect to be paid - the situation here is that I'm fully giving to support the cause. Anyway there are bigger charities, smaller charities etc, it's just a type of organisation. For me, whether I'm paid for playing at a fundraiser depends on other factors, like their financial context. As others have said, you don't have to do anything.

You could use a Shure A95U impedance transformer. That is exactly the same as the transformer plug that Gibson offered with the Les Paul Bass.

Yellow reflective tape on mine but it isn't very robust.