All Activity

Boss Octaver 1982 ( Bronze Livery £40.

Although not my main reason for going Point Source, Active PA cab was that I could add a sub if needed, as it happens I bought two of the 10" Citronic subs but the 8" tops have can handle almost everything except kick drum. I made the right decision.

I have a bright yellow precision that I built a few years ago. It was a finished Warmoth body in Grafitti Yellow Poly. I don't like the colour. I am planning to refinish with black nitro over the yellow poly. I plan to sand the yellow but not all the way off, perhaps with 400grit just to key the surface for the nitro paint. Will this be enough or should I really strip all the yellow back to wood? I don't really want to have to then fill and sand so would prefer just to leave the yellow on. I plan to airbrush the black nitro on. A couple of questions: 1 How dilute (xparts paint to xparts thinner) would be best? 2 What volume of paint is required to cover a precision body? Diluted or Undiluted? - I ask this to establish whether my current (modelling) airbrush would have sufficient capacity in its resevoir without having to refill it too frequently. I know these are proper newb questions but we all have to start somewhere.

Agreed. I've always been more of a Malcolm rather than Angus person.

@Allen When I changed the pickups in my 1999 MiM Jazz a couple of years ago I was concerned about the sizing of the bridge pickup rout (see @Geek99's post above). In the end I found minimal wood needed to be scraped away once the paint was removed from the edges. It was well worth taking the time to do it!

I was talking about the difference between carrying RCF 310's and 8" cabs. The 310's are big enough that they can be a significant lift and carry and take up space in the car if you are also carrying a bass and bass ammplification. That may not have been very clear

If you had the K8 or K10 speakers, would they then be as easy as the Mauis to cay around and set up, especially if you didn't need to take the sub, which to be honest isn't a fair comparison with the Mauis? I'm running just a pair of K10s (no sub) with a 4 piece Americana band (inc drums) and I've not needed the sub for most of those situations (the genre of music dictates the type of venue). It'd be interesting to compare the Mauis V K12 no sub.

Bass looks great. Very cool. How much noise is there as hollowbodies are notorious for feedback, and the single coil is also notorious for hum?

Chaps just wanted to say thanks for the comments, very helpful!

That's what I was thinking. No I've got an XR18, a pair of QSC K12.2 and a KS118. But then the guitarist has the Mauis. I know what would look better and be easier to carry for a gentle country band, but then I also know what would be significantly louder.

Cue the discussion about what's a Watt, etc.

The relay is I'm sure part of the output soft start circuit and not the fan circuit. I have one of these and the fan has never come on ever, not even when I've used the amp very hard. I think the amp modules in these are stripped down budget versions of the Powersoft DigiMod class-d modules, though I can't be sure. I'd like someone to tell me otherwise! I've asked Powersoft and they aren't sure either. If the schematic for the Digimod units are anything to go by, the fan should activate when the unit reaches approx 50C. My amp is eighteen years old, so in class-d terms that's a long while ago and even the Digimod versions are now obsolete. As has been mentioned, as long as they don't get heavy use, the chunky heat sink seems to cope well. They make nice home and studio amps as they are very clean but warm sounding. I've never had mine cut out at all. I think from Ashdown's perspective I can understand there isn't a lot they can do to repair these, and replacement modules don't seem generally available. Faulting surface mount tech like this is beyond my capabilities, and I expect very time consuming for folks who do have the capabilities. It's the old chestnut of being easier to swap an entire unit, than fix it. Throwaway technology. If you can find a used and working Digimod 500/1000 module, I believe the original PSAMP350 modules will swap out easily with them.

I think that's true - I've had the same happen with a LaBella G string, so not just something that can afflict budget strings. Funnily enough, I just picked up a jazz bass with the HB's on, and the A string is slightly chorusy - I'd assumed this was my setup, perhaps it could be the string. If you're ordering enough from Thomann to get free shipping, by all means try a set, but I wouldn't be paying 10 quid shipping on a 12 quid set of strings 🙂