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A must have for those with broken eyetrometers.

Thanks for the reply, Dan! Yes, Eich uses genuine Neutrik plugs only, both on their amps as well as on their cables. (https://www.eich-amps.com/speaker-cable) About the connections in the plugs; I asume (I know, assumptions is the mother of all f*ck ups ;-).....) that when both cables (I bought 2, because I have 2 cabs) are brandnew (I bought them 2 weeks ago), it should'nt be possible that the connections inside are bad. And consider this: There are two chasis connectors at the back of both cabs. The connector on the left is far more worse (and feels more worn out giving the fact that there is so much "space" between the plug and the chasis connector) compared to the one on the right. This counts for both cabs. Another fact to consider: The chasis connectors can be used for 1/4 inch jack plugs as well, and using there plugs, the connection is perfect (and "tight").

We have a winner! Well done!

Thanks for the reply, nekomatic. I bought the amp and the cables together. The cabs on the other hand, I bought them 2nd hand, so I am not sure of there age. But judging by their condition, they will be at most a few years old.

They model best in a 70 liter box with port area of 200 sq.cm. and length of 25cm. The box volume is net, not including the volume taken up by the port and the drivers. The main limiting factor is the 4mm xmax, which limits input power to only 100w per driver at 70Hz, which is in the middle of the critical 2nd/3rd harmonic region. A driver with 5mm or more would be better. If you have two cabs the xmax should suffice.

I added a strip to my new pedal board setup the other day. It cost me about £6 off Amazon and has a usb connection to plug straight into the power supply. It also has a remote to change colours, or flash/ fade them. It now looks like a mobile disco! They don't stick too well to the board so I just used bits of sellotape. It's underneath so not like anyone will notice! Edit to add led light fades vid: Pedal board leds

Do you have to remove the rim from the grill first? It's going to somewhat constrain the flattening if you don't, isn't it?

You folk are using money?? I bought a Mexican Fender Jazz back in 2008 and have straight swapped my main bass on here ever since 😇 Thank you Basschat ❤️

Well, you never know... I thought I'd have a look at a Vintera Bass VI and see if that inspired me, and it did occur to me that it would be the right size to put over the retaining nuts for the pots so that when you put the knobs on, they'd be spaced a card thickness away from the control plate so they'd be a consistent height and have adequate clearance.

It almost looks a little more liek a Montezuma Brown finish. https://reverb.com/uk/p/rickenbacker-360-color-of-the-year?hfid=91724846 or maybe an Autumnglo https://www.andybaxterbass.com/products/2022-rickenbacker-4003cb-autumnglo

That was super helpful, I hadn't seen it so thank you. I'm actually liking the AG more than the TH after watching that video. As for the AGS on the TH, I have no idea but I think everything was flat and it sounded very bright.

The Plough in Ashby is a tiny pub so we do it "acoustically" to have a smaller footprint. It's also rather fun playing songs a bit differently on the "Rocket Music by Stagg" EUB. A few random requests, a few Christmas songs and lots of happy people in the crowd drinking & dancing. In fact it was the busiest we've seen it. One more tomorrow, before Xmas Edit to add this photo - AI has turned us into elves 😂

Bela Lugosi’s dead. Bauhaus

I was thinking along those lines, specifically, sandwich it between two pieces of 18mm ply, then drive my van onto it

A wise man once didn't bother to say "An expensive bass is one that is bought, but never played."

For me, it's about what my income and expenditure allow. I don't have a huge amount of indulgent money. Like many i/I/we have to plan and save. I have spent a lot on a bass, as I've treated them like investments. I have 2 what I would class as expensive basses. My Fender Jazz custom shop cost a fair amount. However, I've gigged with it for years, and it's never given me a problem. It's consistent and reliable. I've probably earned a fair few grand from it each year I've had it. It has paid for itself several times over. So yes, expensive, but in my opinion, a good investment in a workhorse of an instrument.

This is one of the BassChat 110's I've made. I covered it with van carpet. Very red I know but it's different, which is what I wanted.

Not very helpfully it took around 15mins, so I'm not sure what is going wrong. I've bashed a lot of metal in the past when I welded my own car bodywork amnd I've dressed a lot of lead when working on the roof so I'm probably fairly efficient. You kind of settle into a nice steady rhythm keeping the work moving. I'm trying hard to picture what you might be doing. I look not for the high spots but the bits where the metal is most bent. Are you perhaps going for the middle. The bent bit is around the cicumference around 2-3cm in from the edge (roughly, I dont have it in front of me). Knock these flat and the centre will start to lay flat. Push the middle down without taking out the edges will just mean it springs back.

I have used Tonar needles/styli. Work well, availability is decent, as is the price.

My MG Quantum 5 was expensive when I bought it new. I sold my piano, and used all my savings to buy it. In today's money it was nearly £5000. It was a good sounding bass, but since then I have played instruments that feel and suit me better. I sold it and bought an MG Genesis 5 here that may not look as fancy, but it feels so much better. That sure wasn't expensive because of its value to me, no matter the price! As there are very good used basses everywhere, I would seriously consider buying a bass that costs over £2000. I am not into vintage stuff at all, but a lightweight 5 string super long scale Overwater...