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No problems dealing with Bob, so I'm happy to recommend.

WARNING NERDY CONTENT Yes, AWG16 (use of AWG is deprecated) is approximately equal to 1.3mm2 , you look on t’interweb, you will find many tables showing the current rating of flexible cable, and they can vary considerably. https://www.cablejoints.co.uk/upload/AWG--American-Wire-Gauge--To-Metric--Sqmm-Millimeters-Squared--Conversion-Table.pdf The reason is that many of them are quoting for different uses, high temperature, enclosed in conduit/trucking etc. These things reduce the current rating. In addition they usually quote for a single conductor, Free air or strapped to a cable tray, those perforated, overhead strips you can sometimes see in shops and factories. When using flexible copper cable to connect between an amplifier and a speaker remember that the cable ratings in these tables is continuous whereas a music everything is along away from continuous (of course most recordings from after the 80s do not qualify as Music). The other thing you need to remember when you’re looking at the cable current rating is that the power you can draw through a cable is determined by the impedance of the load. An 8 ohm load will draw twice the current of an 4 ohm load. So: Let’s take a cable rated at 6 amps. Power is current (squared) x Impedance. 6x6=36 then 36 x 8 = There 288 watts. For 4 ohms it is 36 x 4= 144 watts. The irony of that is many Jacks and plugs are rated at 5 amps or less. Finally the reason for using what seem like crazy large cables for speakers should not be looked at purely for current rating. Thicker cable means lower resistance (although cables exhibit some capacitance and inductance, they can be ignored) especially over short lengths). A cable that is too thin can consume some of your power, especially when running 4 ohms. Thin cable, what those across the pond call hook-up wire can have a resistance of 2 ohms per metre. Of course a 50cm, 2 core speaker cable has 1 metre of cable. So 100 watts of power into a 4 ohm speaker could lose up to 33+ watts in the cable leaving 66+ watts for your speaker. Go up to a 2.5 mm2 and you would lose less that 1/1000th of a watt at 100 watts. You must also remember that both the cable in the cab and cable between the amp and cab need to be added to give an accurate resistance/impedance figure.

I seemed to remember I played through an Ohm with two footswitches in a plastic housing, but I needed Google to help me. Here's what its AI Overview opined: "One user on an online forum did recall a specific, otherwise generic-looking bass amp that inexplicably had a built-in flanger, which might be the one you are thinking of." Right! We got our answer!

No, in this instance I meant Dan Coggins of Lovetone. If your question is meant to imply that Lovetone ripped off the Mu-Tron III, I’d add that the Meatball was far from a straight-up copy as it added lots of extra functionality not present on the Mu-Tron III. (I have also supported Mike Beigel by buying his own later incarnations (QTron, Micro-tron III and IV, and I’ll probably get the latest Mu-Tron III when funds allow).)

Happy to recommend Geoff. No messing about and easy to deal with.

Happy to recommend Carlos. A nice straightforward transaction.

https://pcroppier.wixsite.com/bassicallytab copy and paste the link into your browser and you'll get to the site All the tabs are now free with an option to donate if you choose, enjoy!

Another of the Bass Chat good guys, happy to recommend.

I cannot say my case is the same as yours, but I got myself a pair of Shures 535, which are a little bit boosted in the mids. First time I tried them, I found them awful. Really mid boosted, no bass, clanky and incredibly annoying. I changed the tips to ones that fit me better and the result was incredibly different. I love them. Another thing that happened to me a couple of weeks agois that I was going to play for the first time with my Sennheiser IE100 with custom molds. In the soundcheck, it was all boomy with a lack of definition. My thoughts were "this gig is going to be hard and I hate my custom molds". Then, I heard myself during the gig perfectly. The issue was that the soundguy had the sublows boosted and the subwoofers just below me were too loud. Even with custom molds. I cannot really explain why this happened, but it did. Man, perfect seal is everything. But also be aware of the shape of the in ear itself. I cannot use KZs because they just pop out from my ear. And I tried several different tips. I moved to smaller in ears (Sennheiser and Shure) because of that

Loads reviewed here. Obviously, one guy’s opinion, but some insights into the differences.

I suspect we were listening to a lot of the same music forty-odd years ago, but hearing very different things in it and coming to different conclusions. I don't think there was anything remotely new about what Peter Hook did on the bass, except that the punk craze (and it was a craze, not the ground-breaking artistic movement it has been elevated to in retrospect) meant his fledgling efforts made it onto record. Anyhow, I've now seen the first episode and it was just as I expected. I still enjoyed it though, and I'm looking forward to seeing the rest of the series. I don't dislike Peter Hook as a person, but he is so enamoured of his own "legend" that he has an inflated idea of his importance as a bass player. He seems to think he took playing the bass and improved it with his lack of ability, and that other more accomplished players just don't have the wit and imagination to be like him. Watching the programme, I'm even more convinced he genuinely believes that he invented the idea of using a lower note on an open string as a pedal tone to play a melody over. Do I need to explain how ridiculous that is? It's also interesting to hear Peter Hook rationalising after the fact his use of the Joy Division/ New Order back-catalogue for his live act. FWIW, I personally think he has every right to perform those songs, but I know that there has been a major falling-out with the other remaining members about some of his choices. It's obviously something he's very sensitive about because he keeps revising his reasons for doing so.

Used to have an Ohm PA amp which was a decent bit of cheap kit. This would have been 1977 - 79 ish.

Do you still have it and how are you getting on with it? What are the thoughts on the pickup? I’m considering one - ideally black, but seems they’ve discontinued it .

I also had (and still have, being my number 1) a 735 and I got myself a BBP34