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  2. Apologies for any confusion. If you read the forum recommendations they suggest some sort of identification the item is being advertised here to avoid the photos being used elsewhere for a bogus sale. Click the Proof of ownership in the red banner at the top of the thread.
  3. That's the one. Here are some better photos of the one I actually owned: IIRC it was sold on to someone in the UK so it should still be around.
  4. I’m a session bassist with 20 years of experience, currently based in Da Nang, Vietnam. I’ve decided to put my two main workhorses head-to-head to see how they handle different grooves. In this video, I’m comparing: 1. Fender American Elite Jazz Bass (Ultra pickups). 2. Custom Made Music Man 5 HH (with a unique Solid Rosewood Neck). Signal Chain: Both basses were recorded through my Kemper Player using a legendary Avalon U5 profile for that pure studio DI sound. Watch the comparison here: I’ve included on-screen TABS and Notation for both, so you can see exactly what's happening in the pocket. I'm currently working towards my 4,000-hour goal on YouTube, so I’d love to hear your thoughts on which bass sits better in the mix for you. Does the rosewood neck on the MM give it that extra 'snap' you'd expect? Cheers, Igor"
  5. Have you doubled checked that they are actually different bases and not the one on Digimart being offered by various "middlemen".
  6. Great envelope filter pedal that just does the job properly. Comes with original box. £75 including postage tk mainland UK with Royal Mail.
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  7. Just had the pleasure of dealing with @Stewart for the first time, who's kindly sold me a really cool and great sounding Dave Hall preamp. It was the perfect Basschat transaction because Stewart's comms have been great from start to finish, and the preamp arrived in super-quick time and in bullet-proof packaging. All in all, an excellent experience... Suffice to say that you can deal with Stewart in complete confidence, Folks! 👌 And thanks for the preamp Stewart - I know I'm going to enjoy it! 👍😊 Cheers, Nik
  8. But what a great way to go!
  9. They're also wonderful to play. After playing my '87 JD Thumb, I just had to have it, even though it cost about six times what I got for my tatty Precision in part exchange.
  10. It's a nice size unit, more options to switch effects on & off during song, and a lot more options / flexibility than the POD Go (which is a great bit of kit imo). Looking forward to getting the chance to muck about with it.
  11. Children of the Grave - Slack Babbath
  12. It’s definitely the lightest stingray 5 that I’ve ever played!
  13. Today
  14. Owned from new for around 12yrs, I bought this from Thomann and had it set up for Rockabilly. It definitely feels a step up from the entry level basses and I have used it live a lot. Most of its life has been more of feature in my living room though. The last couple of years I have been coming to terms with the fact that I need to sell it. Space is at a premium, it rarely gets used and I am of an age where the EUB seems the easier option. The specs are here Thomann link if anyone is interested. I added a pickup which has been useful - a David Gage Realist. People often call it a copper head. They’re industry standard and normally about £120 used. Mine is included with the bass at no extra cost to you. There is a tatty (by my high standards) gig bag and the strings are currently Gut-A-Like vintage ones Gut A Like strings You’ll see I added a few stickers. These should be fairly easy to remove. I’m happy to do it, or I can leave it. Equally I am happy to add more pictures. It’s currently lent against the wall in my place in Hungerford, where I am Sunday to Thursday evenings. Postage looks too hard to do so it would be a collection. I have gotten it in a Peugeot 107 before - not comfortably, so perhaps don’t bring the family if collecting!
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  15. I’m a big fan of Boss pedals and have just re-done my board. I went a bit mad recently and have a fair few that are surplus to my requirements. All are boxed (initially the OC3 was listed as unboxed but I have since found the box) and only the super overdrive has Velcro on the bottom. I would grade these as at least 9/10 in terms of condition. Prices include UK postage. Boss Octave OC3 - £85 Boss Tuner TU3 - £70 Boss Super Chorus CH1 - £75 Boss Super Overdrive - £60 Boss Bass Overdrive - £80 I looked around online and believe these are priced to sell. Check my feedback thread and buy with confidence. PayPal or balance transfer preferred.
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  16. These are great and I am only selling as I just upgraded to the BCB-90x. It’s set up with the daisy chain all in place. You just need to add your pedals and patch cables. Cut for six Boss sized pedals. Price includes UK postage. Check my feedback and buy with confidence. PayPal or bank transfer preferred.
  17. I think it would have been late 80s.
  18. Little Children - Billy J. Kramer/The Dakotas
  19. Well where do we start? Bought locally from someone who had thought that they would do this the Jaco way but ran out out talent and chickened out after the fret removal stage. As you can see they didn’t make a complete pigs ear of it. i thought it would be a good little project to complete in my spare time. Of which recently I’ve come to learn I simply don’t have enough of to realistically finish . Also I was humbled by my experience and leaning that being a half reasonable fretless player requires an amount of patience that I simply don’t possess. ( apparently living down the road from where Mr Palladino grew up helps very little I’ve been told. It’s not in the water as some would have you believe. it has a new set of Johnny Brook round wounds 40-100 strings , so that’s nice. Perfectly adequate strings but not cork sniffing expensive. One could always refret it of course but that’s way above my skill set. its not without war wounds( Mojo ) i think people pay extra for that in some circles but ill forgo that surcharge seeing as you’re here. Equally the after market scratchplate isn’t a perfect fit but worth having for the value of the bonkers crop circles alone! I've highlighted the dings in the photos its a lovely bass and apart from the fact that the last owner was a lefty and saw fit to drill a couple of holes where they shouldn’t be( there’s filler for that if it bothers you) and I took the liberty of foil shielding the cavities. We all know how noisy things can get on a jazz when pups get solo’d, what I’ve done hopefully minimises the racket. In one of the photos you’ll see I ran a brass braid from the bridge pickup to the control panel. Far shorter than the Leo way which ran to the bridge if memory serves. Period accurate three point neck fixing completes the 70’s aesthetic. It’s not a total boat anchor at 4.1 KG / 9.1 lbs but it’s no stick bass either. Happy to meet up in Cardiff/ Barry environs or post at buyers cost( I have packaging. Any queries let me know!
  20. Of course accurate, honest specifications are important, but so is understanding the basic principles of the physics behind speakers (and transducers), which is where this whole thread/discussion has become so confusing. Lots of incorrect assumptions resulting in incorrect conclusions.
  21. 4 ohm 410's make a lot of sense because many 410's have a real world power handling of between 600 and 1000 watts RMS, and there's more available volume this was as a single cabinet solution. If you want 2 x 410's, than a 2 ohm capable amp is not that difficult to find. It has nothing to do with valves versus solid state, there are plenty of examples of 2 ohm capable amps in both types. If there is enough current available from the amp, then it doesn't matter as they go hand in hand. No, it's all about voltage x current x cosine of the phase angle between the voltage and current (which is the definition of real power). Actually, speakers are a current controlled device, the movement of the cone is due to the opposing magnetic fields, one static and one modulating. based on the current flowing through the voice coil. The force F=I x L x B x sin θ (where θ is the angle between the current I and the magnetic field B) The voltage is what causes the current to flow. Voltage and current exist together, you can't separate them aside from the inclusion of the phase angle between them. The voltage causes the current to flow, the current flows because of the voltage, and the real power is ultimately what matters. Since real power is more difficult to measure, apparent power (which assumes that the power factor (or phase angle between the voltage and current is 1) is most commonly used and is plenty accurate for like comparisons.
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