itu

If you need to build your board smallest possible, the cable/effects changes are a chore. How to override a non-functional pedal? The carrying bag may limit the board dimensions or changes: length, width, height, weight... If you have only certain cable lengths, try to think, where to put the slack. Velcros/ty-raps are your friend. I build my (slightly Holeyboard type) boards with ty-raps. They keep the effects in place better but all changes are slower and slightly harder to do. Placement seems to be limited, but it is not. And come on, millimeter movements are not reasonable. I try to think the dangers while playing: liquids (put some feets under the board), kicking and stepping the board accidentally (connections like DC and signal should not brake), dropping the unit while moving stuff from car to the stage (attachment of the effects and cables). Some things to consider, like the usage (can I put some pedal behind another and still push it on), and settings (paint marker, tapes, Stompshield, 3D printed covers). Colors or labels of the cables may help to find connections. The board should have contact information - just in case. I tend to write down the serials as I buy pedals - just in case.

As I think I wrote earlier, try different gauges before tossing the idea of a tight B. I tried several gauges before finding the functional string. Now I am very happy with the sound and feel.

This raised an instant Satriani feeling. Some Sorayama's robot could play that, too. https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/JS1CR--ibanez-joe-satriani-signature-js1cr-chrome-boy

The picture definitely is poor as I took it with my phone in low light after the gig this evening. But there it stands. The effects board is for my fretless although this time I used it for my fretted bass. Soundwise it was a bit strange combination. Tomorrow I will use my fretted bass effects board. IE Divaricator: hi band to mooer Pitch box + Spruce effects OGF. Then all to Daring Audio Phat beam + COG T-16. IE FMeron was an add-on tonight. Glockenklang Soul - alusonic 2 x 12". As the house was full of nurses (only three men excluding the 9 men of our band), there were only fast or very fast songs this time. Let's see what it is gonna be tomorrow.

Any music is good music. Remember, that for some time you are the one that makes the song choices. My sons are already so big, that father's music is like I am, outdated. By the way, this was my road to happiness, when boys did not sleep: https://www.amazon.com/Tone-Fitness-Stability-Exercise-Equipment/dp/B07P5VYNZ1 I sat down on it and started to move a little while holding the kid in my arms. Boys fell to sleep in minutes. I saved gallons of gasoline and did not have to leave the house. The best £20 spent ever.

I am always open to ideas and suggestions. But the music is the final judge: if the idea works, it's fine. The ultimate is to reduce everything to minimum. To simplify. And remember legato. This is especially important to me as our band is 12 persons. In a trio context there would be far more space, there.

I have a cable that I soldered in early '90's. Still going strong. Key words: - Neutrik - Gotham (Cordial) silicone cable - decent amount of shrink tube - velcro to keep the cable tidy

I would love to see my bass in a bit better condition, but this style is very sought after nowadays. Do not know or understand why. The wood will be impregnated with that thing called "mojo" which is plain sweat and dirt from your fingers. No, you do not have to cover the bare wood, if you keep the instrument in decent place and conditions. Not close to a radiator or shower, that's it.

C is not for compact, but lithium. Codes come from IEC. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Button_cell See: Electrochemical system

By the way: CR2032 = - C = lithium cell - R = round - diameter 20 mm - 3.2 mm thick I do carry an extra cable (for the g-word player), set of strings, batteries (9 V), tuner/metronome, and some small tools. If the strap could break, I could sit, etc.

Please, keep violin, viola, and cello out of our area. They do not belong to gamba family. Know your ancestors! Sometimes I have seen the use of "a guxxxx bass, sorry about this offensive word, a g-word bass", but I just do not like it myself. Bass is a bass, it is not a g-word. I find that as a diminutive to our honorable instrument. A double/contra/upright bass, an electric upright, an electric bass, an acoustic bass. That's it. A bassist or a bass player, both are fine.

Gauge is directly related to tension, when comparing similarly built (same brand and type) strings. I am sorry, I just do not understand your comment. The D'Addario guide is very helpful when building certain tension sets. I once built a 5 string set that was in fourths but starting from low C. Technically the set worked very well, but my head did not get it (where is my E now?). I am an old dog who does not even seem to learn the old stuff.

Glockenklang Soul. There are also boxes with adjustable inputs.

By the way, as I have that HPF2, I would modify it to be a tool adjustable unit. The pots tend to move while carrying the stuff around, and the settings are of set-and-forget type. Smaller box would be easier to add on top of other equipment. Waiting to see your solution, and maybe few extra PCBs, too...

No worries, mate. In that case you may build a set of your own or use a low tuning set, or use a 5-string set's 4 lowest. My choice would be to build a set on paper and then find a set that is closest to your study and preference (or buy single strings). 5-string sets tend to be quite pricey. https://m.thomann.de/gb/miscellaneous_strings_for_bass.html

I will copy the results from: http://www.daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf It does not matter that you are using some other manufacturer. These numbers are good approximations and give you the direction. Page 10, Nickel plated roundwound: XLB 100 - 36.5 lbs (E), 23.0 lbs (C) tuning down to C, but having the same tension - 32.0 lbs (XLB120), 35.2 lbs (XLB125), 38.6 (XLB130) Now if you want to tune constantly between E and C, your choices are far more limited. My suggestion might be 110 (tension varies between 46.2 and 29.1). Is it a must to tune the instrument back and forth? Could you just tune the bass to certain tuning and keep it that way?

One of my favourite bass monitors is Genelec 1032A. Lows were deep, although the loudness was modest. Price may be on the higher side, but quality costs.

One suggestion: https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2015/01/hpf-technology-hpf-pre-2.html?m=1

Even though the body wood is light in weight, I still think that from acoustics point of view the stiffness is the main factor, not weight. Neck has to be stiff, and all connections between parts tight. Any loose or soft part or place is very bad to the sound.

The material does not have to be low density at all. If you do some search, you may see exotic wood chopping and carving under the top.

Someone said a while ago, that exotic boutique instruments are at the moment various and relatively cheap. On the other hand low quality Fenders have hefty price tags, thanks to Nirvana et al. If you are sure that 5 is your thing, go for it and take some time to get used to that fifth element. Remember that the string spacing may be different and there are several longer scale instruments in 5's and up. 35" is pretty common.

I had quite a lot of sound issues with my Modulus Graphite. Pickups are bartolini humbuckers. It was not the electronics, nor the bass. Several string sets and individual strings later I found that .125 as a B is good. It acts the same way as the rest of the set (SS 40-100). Others did not. I think I had .135, .130, and few others including coated strings, too, but no. Remember, that string works in this particular bass. You need to do some work to find your Grail. By the way, no dead spots... something you can not achieve with a Fender.