itu

So you are the same guy asking for advice in another thread to buy a new top quality instrument and you have such a beauty at home! No need to go shopping, there are only few that can reach her level. (I do have two Passions from 1988 and 1989. Won't separate until death us...)

For a price of a Status replacement bolt-on neck, you may find a decent 2nd hand neck-through today, so... - active or passive - both can be very good (like John East) or really bad - 1...4/5/6...18 strings? 4 and 5 are still the most common - graphite or wood? (if you are not aware of CITES, there are many exotic wood species that are protected, so maple fretboards are becoming more popular) - short (up to 32"), long (34"), extra long scale (35" and up) or all of them (fanned frets)? - there are very light instruments (from around 6-7 lbs) available nowadays that are made that way and sound great, i.e. you do not have to buy an anchor anymore I myself hate these somewhat popular relic instruments, although I have played few very good (although expensive!) ones. I think, that I can buy a used, worn one but if new, it has to be in impeccable condition. It is my job to wear it out and make mine. One thing to consider is a custom instrument from a local luthier. Choices are practically endless, so an active dialogue is in order before starting and during manufacturing. Read through Thomann.de, classifieds here, in Reverb.com et al. and you will certainly build up a serious GAS sooner than you think. Remember, the right amount of instruments is "one more". EDIT: I did not know, that you own a Vigier Arpège. She is the top. Discussion ends.

I have several IEs including a Xerograph DeLuxe. Settings are wider than some other manufacturers have and that relates to handling. Only a small change may change the sound quite a lot. But then different settings are different sounds. I suggest buying a set of StompShields: https://www.thomann.de/gb/stompshield_the_stompshield_kit.htm

I do not know your mileage but there are two options to consider on top of that fretboard learning: the instrument, and its tuning. Is it a double bass you are actually after (EUB is pretty close) or a fretless? Classical music has usually parts, where bow would be nice. Fretless on the other hand is somewhere in between its big brother and a fretted electric. I have to admit, that bow is a chore in my hands but I have been listening to some exceptional bassists that can deliver incredible sounds using a bow. Pity, I can't. If you have decided the instrument already, why not open up your mind to tunings? H/EADG/C is not the only possibility: double bass guys have solo tunings, you may want to try cello-like tuning in fifths and that is OK with electric, too. Just study the D'Addario string tension guide, first. A basic string set does not support that: only a little bit of work and you can have the tuning you need. http://www.daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf

Jabanez BTB has 35" scale, 4/5/6/7 strings.

...designed by world renowned Vulgarian...

This S-berger threw me to another "doubleneck" offer. Beware: "This for real guys." https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-String-Bass-6-String-Electric-2-Sides-Busuyi-Guitar/223185058762?_trkparms=aid%3D444000%26algo%3DSOI.DEFAULT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20170221122447%26meid%3Dc0131d34b50f4742888350e37d72870f%26pid%3D100752%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D223195385345%26itm%3D223185058762&_trksid=p2047675.c100752.m1982

Now things get interesting... Easiest and quickest solutions: Sell the bass. (OK, it does not seem to be the quickest for some strange reason.) I strongly suggest you to contact the manufacturer for help. Often they are very nice and want to listen their clientele - for reason. Somewhat slower choice is to find a reputable luthier. 4 mm is not so much after all. I have modified several instruments by myself, or a maker has done something to meet my needs. If you have issues with your hands, that probably has something to do with the position of the neck in relation to your body. There are not very many other options than to start to hunt after a suitable instrument. If not a shorter scale bass, try to find something where the strap post meets the neck at 11th fret or even less. 12th is too far for too many players, I think. Bass is not so ergonomic to everyone.

If there is something available to selected few, or the production is limited, the price will rise. (Wrong answer.) If you desperately need something that all others want, too, the company can raise their offer. Pricewise, that is. (Wrong answer.) Is it that much better? Does it even have to be, if you can just join the league of the extraordinary gentlemen? (Wrong question.) Does it fit you perfectly? (Wrong question.) Maslow...

Is it the string spacing or left hand position? String spacing should be pretty simple issue, so an adjustment, but hand may need some learning to tackle the grip. The thumb should be placed behind the neck, but some people like that blues type of grip, where thumb tries to rise above the fretboard. The bass position may help this - if your bass hides your knees, there's not much you can do. Just meet your luthier.

If you are interested in somewhat different sounds (somewhat compressed single coil, humbucking in series or parallel) try a four position rotary switch: neck/bridge/series/parallel. I would not be so worried about too much brightness. You can tame that with your preamp or try a LPF, like Phat Head from Daring Audio. Series humbucking is big in volume compared to a single coil if the volume levels are not matched. But after matching them the sounds open up in a bit different way. This is why I consider single coil somewhat compressed compared to humbucking.

So it seems, that you are not familiar with D'Addario's excellent guide: http://www.daddario.com/DAstringtensionguide.Page?sid=29a7909c-61ab-4080-a933-608c7da2bba3 http://www.daddario.com/upload/tension_chart_13934.pdf

A faulty connection or the pot? This can be seen as angle (X) vs. ohms (Y). You need pen & paper + multimeter. Desolder two of the three pot legs. Measure the resistance and draw it to a paper. http://www.resistorguide.com/potentiometer-taper https://incompetech.com/graphpaper/

Quality = reliability: plugs from Neutrik, high quality silicon cable, reasonably long amount of shrink tube in both ends, and a velcro to keep the cable in shape in the bass bag. http://bassic-bits.co.uk/ seems to have a pretty similar concept. My cables are made by me, except one Monster. It is not so flexible but other than that, works well. My oldest cables are around 30 years old and still going strong.

Glockenklang Soul combo With 2 x 10", the combo kicks and hits but there is the other side, too: 38 kg = 84 lbs. Played 10+ years with it. Love the amp, which leads to... Glockenklang Soul head + Alusonic 2 X 12" Because of the weight, I decided to try something else two years ago. Alusonic moves air with two elements and a tweeter. Separate parts are now far easier to carry: 12 kg (amp) + 18 kg (cab). Somewhat different but still versatile sound. I have had no issues with my gear but I take care of them.

In general valve/tube amplifier output needs a load and transistor/solid state does not. This can be seen so, that: - transistor output can be open (hi-Z, no load, infinite resistance/impedance) and - valve output can be shorted (lo-Z, short circuit, zero resistance/impedance). Once more: this is just a generalization. Like some transistor amps need that load. Study your amp's manual. Impedance is usually told by one number but it is a variable that depends on frequency. So if your amp and speaker state some impedances, and they are roughly in the same ballpark (4 - 8 or 8 - 16 ohms), they will work together. Very big differences or high wattage may stress especially the power amp, like Bill Fitzmaurice wrote earlier.

This new AFR-range has few, but tiny visible details, that separate the old from the new: truss rod adjustment is in the other end, one more tone knob (piezo), wood under the bridge is dark in every model. Backside has different plates. Serial number is no more in the abalone plate between the bridge and the bartolini. Bridge is very different and the four-stringer lacks the de-tuner (in the bridge). Would be nice to do some side-by-side testing between the old and new.

No, not all SRs have recessed saddles but ordinary bridges. Yes, I have done the modification to few basses. I still have one brown 6-to-5 SR that has very good neck and reasonable sounds. Funny: sure the looks could be "awful" if you did not use the right tools.

The modification is really easy to do in both directions. Done that a few times. I would rather say that the modification cost is pretty close to £0... The bridge solution is product dependent. You could open the cavity if needed.

There is the tce SCF, so why bother? If there is a good idea and a neat sound comes out of the construction, then go. On top of the basic settings, the must - that I see it - would be an adjustable X-over and a LPF. That would be the ultimate bass version compared to whichever other pedal available.

...or buy a six string SR and modify it to a 5. A new saddle, a new bridge and - that's it. You can remove the extra tuner, too.