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I read the user manual, which states that some adjustments can be done via USB. It is worth a try. I do admit that it is somewhat peculiar, that bypass is not adjustable with the master, or like some trimmer like others. If the USB does not solve this, the unit behaves somewhat badly. Please do comment after trying that software.

The main issue here is that the signal of the bass is transformed to low impedance. Lo-Z signal suits desks. The level of the signal can be tweaked in the mixer input with an adjustable gain. Easy as that.

The other Wal had a unique top wood. There should be not another with that particular species... there you go: https://www.bassplayer.com/lessons/instant-impression-mick-karn-part-2

...and buy the book. You get lots of stuff to practise...

alusonic has a 2 x 12" which weighs around 18 kg. Aluminium reflex box. Colours can be customized.

This is pure GAS. Two 5 strings, keep the one you love: soundwise, touch etc. Modify the other to a fretless or sell to somebody else. My dream team would be two fours and two fivers. Fretted and fretless ones. I am after a fretless 5 (broad neck, and 35" or 36") that would complete my collection. If someone is interested in your bass, take it as a compliment. That's it.

Not too many, just under 20. One was in Luzern, Switzerland, others within some 30 mile radius from home. Nearly 50 rehearsals.

After toying with several bass and switch trials, I would suggest single/series. Parallel is so close to the single in terms of volume, but it's not as bright, so I tend to jump over it. Did I say useless?

Jimotheezer Jimotheyzer Jimo-the-zer

I was expecting to read about the quarrel of costs between Mr. Fender and Mr. Sadowsky...

Open the cover. Check every cable - there is probably a paint or copper shielding. Any pot lug or bare cable touching the shielding can cause this thumping. If the pot is defect, it may make this thumping, too. Washing with WD40 or similar may help, but this bass is so new that I doubt this would help.

Handmade, 36", lightweight, hi-Z, luminous dots on the side.

Someone here still believes, that a passive unit would not affect the signal and an active would? Please stop writing that nonsense. One reason for using a battery is to avoid ground loops, another is a very low power consumption. Phantom can offer only few milliamperes (mA), so the box can not consume very much either. Mine takes 0.4 mA. My choice is a studio model as it works with every signal. It is a Countryman Type 85. It was not cheap but has been working for some 30 years. Now it seems to be very economical.

Non-inverting opamp, anyone? If the first stage is inverting, the input Z of the amp can be designed to nearly anything up to around 100 MOhm. By the way, how do you measure your amps' input Z and how much are they?

Well, if the pedal has a jack, I would use screened. Then any cable can be mixed with each other. My exp pedal has so different looking cable that you cannot mix it by accident.

Is it really? The text above mixes stuff quite some. The input is a modern opamp (which are usually FET-based) with very high input impedance. They do not load the source. In a signal line the source has to be lower impedance than the input, or the input will load the source. These opamps have so high input impedance, that they are practically invisible to any modern coil-magnet pickup, hi-Z or lo-Z. Even piezos. "Matching" is used in a funny way here. Bassist @Woodinblack uses lo-Z output to reduce noise and to ignore the load of the cable. High input impedance has nothing to do with that. Only if the input Z would be in close range with the source, there would be reduction of the frequency response. A modern opamp has an input impedance in the GOhm range. Your source, i.e. bass output impedance is probably ten to hundreds of kilos. Come on fellow players, this is basic electronics. Easy test of this is to bypass all hi-Z bass adjustments. This means those cheapo carbon track pots. What happens? Well, there will be more treble, as the pots load the pickups. Easy as that. Lo-Z electronics tackle this issue by using the pots only to affect amplification. The pots do not have to be in the direct signal route. Check John East's creations.

The right terms would be that they turn high impedance signals to lo-Z. "Active" is not so accurate word here.

If that amp has a FET-based input, it certainly matches any bass or pedal output. @Jus Lukin wrote wise words: active input is just a pad + that passive input. Many amps have good gain adjustments that cover practically all bass or effects outputs. Some hard loads (usually piezos) are hard for the preamps but most of these FET inputs can eat nearly anything.

The seller may be the son of a hiram.k.hackenbacker Jr.?

A '96 Dolphin, that is high end.

I need to remind you of the several quality points within Wartburg. If compared with the same price points, then another story.

I use my current rig practically everywhere. If I had some extra, my choice would be that small GK.