itu

That was very functional! By the way, Natalie can not be single, can she?

I do admit that I have been watching after one red BB. As my fretted 5 has 19, I just want similar.

If the area is tiny, a quick-n-dirty way to repair it is to use some nail lacquer. Colour choice is up to you.

I wish I had, that is probably next on my list. But with 19 mm spacing. Nothing else matters.

You need a multiscale, so buy a harp or a grand piano (Steinway is 274 cm). The reason for different gauge strings is the equal scale length. But to find the string that works with the scale length is another story.

Cut half of the longitudal (?) thread away from the nut and the screw and you can lock the pickups with just a half turn of the screw. Like the locks in cannons. See "stepped thread", "breech screw" etc.

Oh dear, I thought there's only need for a 5-string fretless, but that's a semiacoustic 8-string Rickenbacker! Kool!

I would be more worried about the equipment that was left in the car and someone decides to make a "loan". When the cab is brought inside to warm temperature, the cold parts get a cover of moisture. Slow warming up prevents this to happen. So take it easy and there's no need to worry.

Yes, 1 is the ground. Check that the shield is not connected to 1. 2 = hot, 3 = cold.

Tears for fears - Everybody wants to rule the world https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGCdLKXNF3w One rhythm, no unnecessary fills.

OK, I have to be more accurate: Bass output (high or low impedance signal) - hi-Z input of the DI box and balanced lo-Z output - balanced lo-Z signal - balanced hi-Z input of the mixer. So here we have two types of impedances: the equipment inputs (preferably high) + outputs (preferably low) AND the signal. The difference is a bit like we would be discussing about the right size plugs + jacks AND the cable types that fit to the hardware mentioned.

I see, you actually meant that the desk input impedance that needs to be high. Yes, this is true. But the line needs to be lo-Z. This was my point but your text was a bit long and I missed the mixer/desk comment in the beginning. My bad. But back to the basics: Bass output (high or low impedance) - hi-Z input of the DI box and balanced lo-Z output - balanced lo-Z line - hi-Z input of the mixer.

It may be, that my poor english is the reason for not understanding the note. I just do not get the term "high impedance" as balanced lines are lo-Z. The balanced signal can be created by a transformer only, or a preamp only, or using a preamp to drive a transformer. All in all, all outputs are lo-Z. Line level unbalanced signals can be quite high in impedance but then the signal is prone to electromagnetic issues. Especially if the line length is long. Lo-Z balanced lines on the other hand can easily handle 100 meters with negligible or no issues.

When you actually meant to say that the Z is low, not high.

Transformer based boxes have their issues, but I think you nailed one very important point here: "amazing sounding". As far as we are getting certain sound from our equipment, the DI-box should not sound at all. It is the thing that should be totally transparent, if any. Another story is if you want to tweak the sound and your box is meant or able to do that. To be fair, this type of unit is closer to a preamp with a suitable lo-Z output than a pure DI-box.

If the pot is very big, like they tend to be, the lowest setting can be from few ohms to few hundred. The accuracy of those low end carbon track pots is not fascinating. As long as you have any passive pots in the circuitry, they act as filters. They cut the highest end of the frequency spectrum. If you bypass any pots in the circuitry (remember that we discuss about a passive, so high impedance circuit), the response will widen. The reason to use big pots is to reduce the effect. A common hi-Z bass has two to four pots in parallel, so the impedance is not 500 k or 250 k but something much lower. Another thing is if your system is lo-Z and the adjustments are made by active circuitry. Then the pots do not affect the response.

I don't think Delta metal is steel. Brass of some kind, maybe?

That greenish colour is simply the most powerful. There are several colours available, but all others than green, and those close to it, are far less luminous. Check RC Tritec's pages and available options (8, I think). I have seen several active colours, too (mostly tritium) and there is the same issue: orange may look nice on paper, but the luminosity is very faint.

Depending on the condition of the Vigier Passion II, the values have been something like £750 - 1900 depending on the condition, the amount of strings, and accessories (like the original hard case). Those few under one grand have been in pretty bad condition: ruined preamps, lacquer and so on. The fabrication was limited and all serials including string amounts and production dates can be found from Vigier's web pages. (Try to find an Arpege with Nautilus system, and you can say that a Passion is one pretty common bass! I have seen only one for sale in Zikinf during internet time. Just like a Neuser Clawhammer/Claudia that I happened to see in one Swedish "basschat" few years ago. Never seen one in real life, but they do exist.)

Michael's decision to retire was discussed here some time ago. A bit of search helps.

I got my hand on a note of something red that got me started. The score is pretty far from the right notes, so I suppose I need to do a transcription of my own. Shaun Ward plays so well, I need to record my own playing and find the nuances to get even close to his accuracy. I know it is an old song, but the groove is timeless.

There are very, very old double basses with 5 strings and frets. @chris_b put it really well: first (succeeded) mass production solid body bass. Mandobass and earlier others were not so successful, and as said, there were several trials before LF. Think about amplifiers, strings, and big bands: the bass needed a few things around to become something else than just a niche instrument.

I read the user manual, which states that some adjustments can be done via USB. It is worth a try. I do admit that it is somewhat peculiar, that bypass is not adjustable with the master, or like some trimmer like others. If the USB does not solve this, the unit behaves somewhat badly. Please do comment after trying that software.

The main issue here is that the signal of the bass is transformed to low impedance. Lo-Z signal suits desks. The level of the signal can be tweaked in the mixer input with an adjustable gain. Easy as that.