itu

I can read OUTPUT, but does it really say INTPUT in the upper right corner? This project is excellent, like the way you have been opening the box and found a new way to reduce the footprint. I think that some shielding would be in order to make it quiet to both directions, in and out.

The capacitor has not so much effect when the pot is fully open, but the pot load is affecting the sound all the time. Only if the neck including its parts is similar to another and the only difference is the fretboard, the comparison would be somewhat reasonable. Setting the instrument has to be done the same way, too.

I would LOVE to have an active blend and get rid out of those pick up load issues (i.e. sound changes) with passive pots. I have found noll that makes an active mixpot and I think that East has active inputs (please correct me if I'm wrong). Quite many bartolini sets have passive pots and only the tone control is active. Most of the manufacturers rely purely on active tone control. I see this point of view as a "half active system": the volume and mixing of the pick ups is passive. Qualitywise this solution is somewhat cheapo. Active EMGs are active by nature, so mixing them can be done with passive pots without significant load and sound issues. Active is an option there, too. 1) passive pick up - passive volume and mix - passive tone (like a Jazz) 2) passive pick up - passive volume and mix - active tone (any "active" bass like Ibanez) 3) passive pick up - active volume and mix - active tone (like retrofit East preamp on a Jazz) 4) active pick up - active or passive volume and mix - active or passive tone (EMG + East)

Here are few points (arrows), that may need some tin. The power socket and IN and OUT are marked with text. I am not sure, whether my reading is perfect (I just rely on the pic) but it seems that there may be issues in the PCBA. For example those arrows in the uppermost right corner showing problems may be of no use i.e. not important.

Just on the right side from that trimmer (which looks like a flathead screw - do not touch it) you can see 6 + 6 soldered legs of the input and output jacks. Open the jack screws first and try again. If there is a power connection (9 V) somewhere, the PCBA may be stuck from that corner, so take your time. The power socket is maybe on the left side of those red&black wires and the trio of solderings look pretty lousy. It may be loose, so you just need a hot iron and some tin. I would wash the PCBA with (denaturated) ethanol to see, if there are other issues with solderings. Does not look so clean...

A pic or two would be very helpful...

TS plugs/jacks have tip (+) and sleeve (-), TRS have tip, ring and sleeve. I suggest you tin the cables to tip and sleeve. The phasing actually matters, if you happen to use several cabs. The easiest way to check phasing is to use a 9 V battery and check which way the cone moves when you connect the battery + to the speaker + (and grounds together). Phase is OK, if the cone pushes forward.

It was just a suggestion as reverb has other uses than just, yes, reverb.

There are quite a few alternatives here, I think: 1) string change to stainless steels 2) pick up adjustment may help 3) make a bypass switch for pots 4) make the bass partially active by using noll's mixpot (removes pick up load issues, but needs a battery) 5) change pick ups 6) EQ pedal = active preamp?

Try a little bit of reverb with fuzz... My choice is Iron Ether Nimbus. It has LPF and HPF for reverb so it does not mud the sound at all. Very bass driven design. You may find one from Taylor himself or in Europe from: https://www.effekt-boutique.de/iron-ether/

B relates to linear and numbers to 30 kilo ohms. So you should be after around 25 - 30 kilo ohm linear pot. It should be noted, that B sometimes relates to logarithmic pot. Sadly, there are no standards here.

I just happened to find out, that Warwick's Hellborg amps and cabs seem to be on sale. Those interested will find their way to that well-known German T-shop.

I started with a green (sic!) tinted Status MM neck (satin finish, no dots; thank you folks out there). I had an extra Q-tuner pick-up. Went to a store to buy 4 single bridge pieces. Called a luthier that I know. He built a body from local wood (Finnish birch) and put the set together. Now I have a rock solid dark bass with no adjustments or pots. Works like a dream. Did NOT cost £3 000.

Wonderful dark fretboard!

Not just plug in, but they need to be soldered. And as there is something with the output, please contact your tech.

3below sent an excellent link, although you may need translator for a moment... If you look at the picture (or probably the actual unit), there are those four big transistor up left. Under the two rightmost big MOSFETs there are two parts missing, so those transistors. You can find them by reading the PCBA. Transistor type is BF423. https://www.onsemi.com/PowerSolutions/product.do?id=BF423 I have to say that there may be something else that is faulty, too, but trial surely is not very expensive.

At the moment there is a red Sonic Hammer in the marketplace: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/334589-modulus-usa-quantum-ss-sonic-hammer-5-string/

Sir, I just have to say that also a Zon might be one reasonable alternative. There is one with a cocacola top: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/333003-zon-sonus-custom/ At least would love to try that one. Yes, it is a bolt-on but a Legacy is rare. The body shape clearly relates to Spector NS-1 (Ned Steinberger) - Warwick Streamer - Fodera Monarch - etc. so obviously Mr. Steinberger got something right with that. My personal favorites while choosing an instrument are: neck shape (backside as flat as possible), string spacing (19 mm), ergonomics (including light weight), sound on the darker side, and I like carbon fiber as well as hate the F-word (by Leo). Nice to have: no front dots, dark top wood colors, dark fretboard (definitely not maple), easy string changes (top loaded bridge), strap locks, 4/5 strings. Strings and electronics can be easily tweaked if needed.

The first test - always - is to put a cable to FX loop, so a bass (yes!) cable from SEND to RETURN. If the problem is gone, buy a short cable to the loop. These connections tend to be the usual suspect. Speaker cable is the next one - use only quality ones and check them periodically. At least once a year. A loose screw is hard to find. (Other than that, Speakon is the right solution for speakers.)

I played a red 5-string Passion series II back in the early 90's in a shop. She had her little twin sister (4-string) beside her. Similar necks out of graphite. So did you mean five string Arpège in graphite?

Don't worry, your instrument is still state-of-the-art. And rare: I found my 1988 Passion after hunting slappyto, zikinf, and leboncoin for months. More pics, please...

So you are the same guy asking for advice in another thread to buy a new top quality instrument and you have such a beauty at home! No need to go shopping, there are only few that can reach her level. (I do have two Passions from 1988 and 1989. Won't separate until death us...)

For a price of a Status replacement bolt-on neck, you may find a decent 2nd hand neck-through today, so... - active or passive - both can be very good (like John East) or really bad - 1...4/5/6...18 strings? 4 and 5 are still the most common - graphite or wood? (if you are not aware of CITES, there are many exotic wood species that are protected, so maple fretboards are becoming more popular) - short (up to 32"), long (34"), extra long scale (35" and up) or all of them (fanned frets)? - there are very light instruments (from around 6-7 lbs) available nowadays that are made that way and sound great, i.e. you do not have to buy an anchor anymore I myself hate these somewhat popular relic instruments, although I have played few very good (although expensive!) ones. I think, that I can buy a used, worn one but if new, it has to be in impeccable condition. It is my job to wear it out and make mine. One thing to consider is a custom instrument from a local luthier. Choices are practically endless, so an active dialogue is in order before starting and during manufacturing. Read through Thomann.de, classifieds here, in Reverb.com et al. and you will certainly build up a serious GAS sooner than you think. Remember, the right amount of instruments is "one more". EDIT: I did not know, that you own a Vigier Arpège. She is the top. Discussion ends.