Jump to content

supertzar

Members
  • Content Count

    12
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Total Watts

1 Neutral

About supertzar

  • Birthday February 26

Personal Information

  • Location
    Finland

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks guys. It's food for thought for sure. I kind of feel like I will be left wanting whatever the case. I do like the option of having external effects in the loop and having pre and post di in the same place to make cable routing easy on stage. And the AO900 comes in sexy red too... But there won't be any real gigging anytime soon. I think it might be quite a bit more satisfying to just get the pedal and work with my practice amp and upgrade from there if situation so calls. IEM is a real option so it may well be all that is needed.
  2. I'm planning on upgrading my amp situation and lookin to try some form of darkglass. Mostly interested in the Alpha & Omega because the distortion seems super versatile and I like the sounds of it in almost every demo I have found. The question is how to achieve this. I'm looking at two different possibilities roughly in the same price range. I could go with Alpha & Omega 900 or a combination of Quilter Bass Block 800 and Alpha & Omega Ultra. With the Quilter I would have a simple amp with simple controls to fix the sound to the room and also the possibility to go ampless when needed, because the sound is mainly built in the pedalboard anyway. With AO900 I would have the simplicity of achieving about the same(?) sound with less gear. AO900 would also handle 2ohms so that simplifies the cab choices for any given situation. What would you choose and why? Am I overlooking something obvious?
  3. I'm planning a new board as a smallish do-it-all setup. I'm building the board myself to get the dimensions right and the modularity I want. What I'm having is a two part board with the bare minimum I need that plugs over a slightly bigger board with more things when I feel the need for something extra. The small board will be boss wl-50, into boss tu-3s, into schalltechnik mini-hp-vong. This little block is pretty much what is first in line no matter what I do and what is used alone in smaller gigs. This will plug straight into the big board. The big board is built around schalltechnik omnilooper and that is the first in line from the first board. The low-pass loop has just a cheapo compressor to keep the bass side in the game when needed. The high-pass side has the flavour of the month overdrive (currently dod boneshaker) and tc brainwaves for pitch shifting and some chorus-like sounds. The big board has room for one more pedal. I'm missing something but can't quite put my finger on it. I know there are a lot of effect types absent but everyone has a different taste and I'm looking for inspiration here. Assume the pedalboard lives in a vacuum and the bass and amp don't matter.
  4. The manual doesn't say anything special about the outputs. To my understanding it's just a normal stereo output which is usually used to bounce the delays left and right. I also believe the shimmer effect might have some stereo content but that's not so important here. I'm just hoping I could get some delay/shimmer texture to the band mix as well as my amp. I just never thought of this before and I'm worried splitting the signal like this might cause some issues (phase/impedance/signal loss... etc). Maybe I'll just try it and hope I don't fry anything. I don't see any obvious problems here but as I said, I don't use effects so much so I'm not sure if it would cause issues. It does sound nice after the swell octaves and it is a great sounding and versatile pedal and does just about everything I want it to do on my acoustic guitar. But then again I can't really compare it to anything so there might be something better out there. I just bought a reverb/delay, loved the first one and never looked for anything more 😄
  5. I'm having a wedding gig in a month. It's a casual event and we're playing mostly top 40 style of stuff. The couple did ask for "their song" though, and it's going to be mainly acoustic guitar ballad. I don't normally use effects on bass other than slight compression, so I scavenged my guitar board for some swell octaves and shimmer reverb to add a kind of pad synth (very subtle mind you, barely on the background). My reverb pedal (nux atlantic) has stereo out. Is there anything that would prevent me using the normal mono L going in front of my amp and the stereo R into the bands mixer to get something extra out of the stereo shimmer effect? Would my normal signal suffer with this wiring when the effect wasn't in use? Just adding one cable would be simpler than putting extra pedals to split the signal before the pedal and sending the full stereo reverb into the mixer. I can always just push everything straight to the amp mono, so it's not that big of a deal. I'm just trying to figure out if I could easily get something extra out of the things I already have without damaging anything.
  6. You are absolutely right and I have been furiously studying and comparing the pillar and girdle braces in the fearless cab plans. And by volume I mean the litres and cubic cm of a cone that is kind of a cone and a cylinder but has holes in it and I'm not sure how much to subtract after measuring the internal volume of the cab. It is around 65 litres by the way, but as I said, I'm not 100% sure how much space the internal "organs" of the cab actually take out of that. But this is probably just overanalyzing the problem and I kind of also not sure they make that much of a difference in this kind of a project. I'm just sort of thinking out loud so people smarter and more experienced than me can point out obvious flaws while I figure stuff out. I just weighed the speakers and two of them are about 8,8 kg. So this gets me to the ballpark of the weight of the end product. My concern now is that even if i made it from thick plywood and put a lot of braces, most of the weight will be in the speakers. Has anyone made diy 2x10 cabs vertically and if you have, do they stay upright if you have heavy speakers? I mean most of the weight would be attached to the front of the cab. Maybe put them in a small angle? Like only 10° just to shift the center of gravity a little? Too much thinking again?
  7. I got the cab so I guess I'm doing this. Should this thread be moved to the "Build Diaries" or should I start a new thread? Didn't play through it yet but it should be working fine. I did briefly open it up to take measurements and found out it's made of a combination of 15 and 17 mm MDF board. So I could probably shave like 15 kg just recreating the whole thing from plywood. Didn't weigh the drivers yet but I got the basic measurements done to start planning. It has some bracing on the inside, so my next thing would be figuring out how much of the internal volume is made of all the extra stuff inside. Any tips on how to measure/estimate the volume the drivers take up? Or do I even need to measure it this way? I mean if I just imagine moving one of the side walls into the middle the inside volume is halved. And because the port is a shelf type it is halved. And because there is bracing exactly in the middle, I can forget measuring that too and actually just keep the horizontal bracing as it is. Please someone tell me I'm wrong because it's starting to look like it's way simpler than I thought and that makes me nervous somehow.
  8. You might just have talked your way to a build thread. The way I see it, I would have material for two 2x10's. What this means is that I could work my way through to a playable cab, then take what I learned from that and build a second, nearly identical but better cab, and I would end up with cool scalable 2x2x10. I'll go ahead and haul that awful 45 kg to my basement and start measuring. My original goal with the 1x12 was to build it as light and mobile as possible. I think a slim vertical 2x10 would be the most convenient shape. Depending on how heavy the actual drivers end up being, I'm pretty sure something under 15 kg could be achievable with thin plywood if I copy the bracing from fearful cabs. I could also do some bracing on the outside and pretty easily shape them to be used as handles. Exciting times!
  9. Google tells me this cab is tuned to 38Hz-16kHz, which seems pretty good. A small 2x10 would lose the tweeter of course. It's starting to intrique me more and more, but reverse engineering this is getting a bit too advanced for me. It has a shelf type port that for some reason is harder to understand for me. Is the volume of the port actually the deciding factor here? I know the size and length of the port does create a space inside but tuning by changing the length of a round port is just more logical concept inside my brain. Could this actually be as easy as just halving both the volume of the cab and the port?
  10. As I said, I am fully aware of the limitations and compromises in this kind of project. I already have a rig that I like for both stage amp and going in di and this is not about replacing any of those. I have studied most of the popular plans for diy cabs both high-end and superlight and quite a few in between. This isn't something I absolutely NEED. It's something I WANT to do as I love diy projects almost as much as I love music. Something that I can just carry to my house basically for free is the very definition of cheapo 😄 You could always add a couple hundred to the price and get something better. Then add some more and it's even better. The trick is to find the product that meets the needs. I'm pretty happy with the design I have ran through winisd with the basslite, but the bb410 would be so cheap right now that I just have to consider it.
  11. Around South-West and Turku. Yeah I think this too. I found out that they are "bugera drivers specially designed for this cab"... Just had my fingers crossed someone might have something useful. Is there any way to measure or estimate it? For this kind of project (and if using behringer) I fully understand that it would not be super fullrange facemelting hifi, but I would still like to know if I could extract something better than it is now. I'm assuming that there's quite a lot more to it than just roughly halving the internal volume of the whole 4x10? I think the porting would be a nightmare without proper way to measure the tuning of the cab.
  12. Greetings from Finland. Forst poster here but I'd rather get straight to business. I've been playing the bass for the last 15 years and mostly never bothered to dive too deep in to the abyss that is the ultimate tone. I'm happy with the rig that I have when playing with and amp+cab or when playing straight to foh. Even the old 30w behringer practice combo I've been using for those 15 years at home (and even in some small acoustic gigs!) has served it's purpose well enough for me. But now I'm finally looking to upgrade the practice/small gig setup with a micro amp and a small cab. Currently looking at the elf or bam200. As I'm pretty happy with what I got so far, I'm planning to amuse myself with a diy cab build for this project. I have studied different options and I have pretty much set with eminemce basslite s2012 and their suggested ported ultralight build. The idea here would be to go under 10kg and I'm 99% confident my plans would work for this. However, the real question isn't about the diy eminence 12" cab. When I was planning this, I got an option for pretty much free behringer bb410 cab and I thought this would be A LOT cheaper option and I think I might just get that and try to butcher it to a 2x10 cab as close to 10kg as possible. Probably pretty hard to go under 10kg but maybe a well braced thin plywood might be possible well under 15kg? The problem is that I can't find any information about the drivers used in this cab? Does anyone know if this information is available somewhere?
×
×
  • Create New...