supertzar

You could alternatively go for the rockboard abs case. The board can live inside the lid and the lid also has rubber feet for this. And even if I don't have any experience with their flight cases, I'm not convinced you would actually get that much more protection with the flight case.

From a gig last weekend. Just got the pedaltrain nano and a new cioks 4 last week. I do feel that the rockboard form factor is way better than pedaltrain, but this size is perfect so I'm happy. My last psu was cioks dc10 and it's hard to believe how small and light the new one is. I'm planning on switching the tunet and chorus for a plethora x3 at some point. This covers pretty much anything I need to do, wild or vintage tones, presets for every band. Love it.

I have been thinking about this exact setup for quite a while now. I already have the ultrawave and the c4. My thinking is that the ultrawave would be the first and last in line with compressor and limiter and a touch of overdrive and eq. C4 doing all the octaves, filters and synth sounds. X3 after that adding the space, time and modulation to give life to the synths. It also has cab sim and tuner. It seems like the ultimate setup but it strats to get bigger, clunkier and more expensive than a multieffect with similar or bettet functionality... I might keep the ultrawave and C4 on their own little board and add the X3 only when needed, but I'm afraid I would just end up using it all every gig 😂

Oh, how I love this kind of analysis AND GRAPHS. Would love to see same done with more pedals (maybe b7k). Great work!

I think this is great. Because the insides are exactly the same as b3k, then clearly if you want to fiddle with settings, you buy a b>1k. If this pedal has your basic always on tone, or you need just one kind of good overdrive that you don't need to adjust, then why would you ever want it to take more space and money than this? It's nothing new, that is true, but I think it's a great addition to their line of pedals.

I was previously hoping for a smaller X5 to actually add to my current board and not make it the centerpiece. I have my preferred drive/preamp/filter setup for the core tone I'm using 90% of the time and I could use quite a compact board with them and the X3 if I only could put my fuzz after the octave and before the chorus. I do wonder if the stereo in/out could be configured in series mono channels with a firmware update to make it usable as an fx loop.

First contribution, but also first time I feel really satisfied. Still searching for the right octave (mostly for those Ian Allison synth sounds). Also featuring my diy "guest pedal" junction box that will probably move underneath at some point. The signal passes through a switched jack that can be interrupted with a trs split cable. It's mostly there because I've been thinking to add the Justin Chancellor fuzz wah and it wouldn't fit the board.

Any experiences in using one10t together with two10? I have a two10 and it kind of seems like adding one10t would create pretty much the ultimate modular rig with everything from 1 to 3 drivers. And the power handling stacking the two would mean it should basically handle 99,99% of the gigs most of us have. I'm very intriqued by this and seriously thinking to invest in this + a microtubes 500 or reidmar 502.

The thing is tiny and will likely fit any guitar bag you can find. Short scale goes a long way, but the absence of headstock really takes a good 20cm off the total length. Someone on talkbass has used mono vertigo with the standard scale ehb so you certainly are good to go with the short scale 👍

It's the little things that make people happy. I'm loving the fact that the wireless angle matches the helix 😄

Learned a trick from talkbass ehb thread. Ibanez preamps are wired to be around the same volume on the active/passive. There is an option on the preamp to move some wires to a different plug and it adds around +6db of gain to the active side. The voicing will be a little different but it should add some clarity to the bartolinis that people seem to be wanting. I'm yet to try this with my srms805 but talkbassers have been having super positive experiences with it. Gasing hard for the short scale ehb...

I will forever cherish these words. I have found that purposefully making a word more stupid than it originally is will generally upset less people than using anything that could be perceived as millenial internet slang. I will get back to you on the topic (probably not). I think that what actually caused much of the damage here, is the fact that every single one of us has probably been that player at one point of our careers. As facebook would put it: "I'm in this video and I don't like it."

Okay this is real feedback and something I can get behind. Also something that should have been obvious from the start. Condescending tone is something I truly don't get from the video (or light-hearted in the thread for that matter). And I do like that it seems to be intentionally avoiding anything actually related to music theory. I think everyone can find enough lessons about playing differently to make things interesting. There is a difference in being a relaxed and casual and being passive and boring. Not a problem for experienced players, that is true. I did check the profile and agree that signing up only to promote is a bit fishy.

Fair enough. Completely different topic though. You would think that an online bass forum would be the perfect place to promote bass related material, but tbh that's not how the internet usually seems to work. You're welcome. And you are probably right. If you have found something that suits you, then I don't think this particular video is for you anyway. As for the alleged plug itself, the production value seems impressive for a channel under 500 followers. Consider me subscribed. But not before I come back inside. There's a cloud on my backyard that needs to be aggressively told its place.

I'm not a native english speaker so forgive me if I have misunderstood something. I thought there is a definitive difference in "are you" and "you are", so the amount of backside damage in this thread is confusing to me. The video raises a valid point for discussion. It presents a problem and offers a solution. If you feel somehow attacked by this, then you probably have a not so active stage presence. And that is completely fine as long as you yourself have made peace with it. I like active shows.

I use a chinese ammoon/eno/whatever eq7. Under 30€ from ebay and mini-sized. The frequencies are perfect for bass in my opinion (63, 125, 250, 500, 1k, 2.2k and 5k). And it's not noisy unless you crank the treble channels.

Thanks guys. It's food for thought for sure. I kind of feel like I will be left wanting whatever the case. I do like the option of having external effects in the loop and having pre and post di in the same place to make cable routing easy on stage. And the AO900 comes in sexy red too... But there won't be any real gigging anytime soon. I think it might be quite a bit more satisfying to just get the pedal and work with my practice amp and upgrade from there if situation so calls. IEM is a real option so it may well be all that is needed.

I'm planning on upgrading my amp situation and lookin to try some form of darkglass. Mostly interested in the Alpha & Omega because the distortion seems super versatile and I like the sounds of it in almost every demo I have found. The question is how to achieve this. I'm looking at two different possibilities roughly in the same price range. I could go with Alpha & Omega 900 or a combination of Quilter Bass Block 800 and Alpha & Omega Ultra. With the Quilter I would have a simple amp with simple controls to fix the sound to the room and also the possibility to go ampless when needed, because the sound is mainly built in the pedalboard anyway. With AO900 I would have the simplicity of achieving about the same(?) sound with less gear. AO900 would also handle 2ohms so that simplifies the cab choices for any given situation. What would you choose and why? Am I overlooking something obvious?

I'm planning a new board as a smallish do-it-all setup. I'm building the board myself to get the dimensions right and the modularity I want. What I'm having is a two part board with the bare minimum I need that plugs over a slightly bigger board with more things when I feel the need for something extra. The small board will be boss wl-50, into boss tu-3s, into schalltechnik mini-hp-vong. This little block is pretty much what is first in line no matter what I do and what is used alone in smaller gigs. This will plug straight into the big board. The big board is built around schalltechnik omnilooper and that is the first in line from the first board. The low-pass loop has just a cheapo compressor to keep the bass side in the game when needed. The high-pass side has the flavour of the month overdrive (currently dod boneshaker) and tc brainwaves for pitch shifting and some chorus-like sounds. The big board has room for one more pedal. I'm missing something but can't quite put my finger on it. I know there are a lot of effect types absent but everyone has a different taste and I'm looking for inspiration here. Assume the pedalboard lives in a vacuum and the bass and amp don't matter.

The manual doesn't say anything special about the outputs. To my understanding it's just a normal stereo output which is usually used to bounce the delays left and right. I also believe the shimmer effect might have some stereo content but that's not so important here. I'm just hoping I could get some delay/shimmer texture to the band mix as well as my amp. I just never thought of this before and I'm worried splitting the signal like this might cause some issues (phase/impedance/signal loss... etc). Maybe I'll just try it and hope I don't fry anything. I don't see any obvious problems here but as I said, I don't use effects so much so I'm not sure if it would cause issues. It does sound nice after the swell octaves and it is a great sounding and versatile pedal and does just about everything I want it to do on my acoustic guitar. But then again I can't really compare it to anything so there might be something better out there. I just bought a reverb/delay, loved the first one and never looked for anything more 😄

I'm having a wedding gig in a month. It's a casual event and we're playing mostly top 40 style of stuff. The couple did ask for "their song" though, and it's going to be mainly acoustic guitar ballad. I don't normally use effects on bass other than slight compression, so I scavenged my guitar board for some swell octaves and shimmer reverb to add a kind of pad synth (very subtle mind you, barely on the background). My reverb pedal (nux atlantic) has stereo out. Is there anything that would prevent me using the normal mono L going in front of my amp and the stereo R into the bands mixer to get something extra out of the stereo shimmer effect? Would my normal signal suffer with this wiring when the effect wasn't in use? Just adding one cable would be simpler than putting extra pedals to split the signal before the pedal and sending the full stereo reverb into the mixer. I can always just push everything straight to the amp mono, so it's not that big of a deal. I'm just trying to figure out if I could easily get something extra out of the things I already have without damaging anything.

You are absolutely right and I have been furiously studying and comparing the pillar and girdle braces in the fearless cab plans. And by volume I mean the litres and cubic cm of a cone that is kind of a cone and a cylinder but has holes in it and I'm not sure how much to subtract after measuring the internal volume of the cab. It is around 65 litres by the way, but as I said, I'm not 100% sure how much space the internal "organs" of the cab actually take out of that. But this is probably just overanalyzing the problem and I kind of also not sure they make that much of a difference in this kind of a project. I'm just sort of thinking out loud so people smarter and more experienced than me can point out obvious flaws while I figure stuff out. I just weighed the speakers and two of them are about 8,8 kg. So this gets me to the ballpark of the weight of the end product. My concern now is that even if i made it from thick plywood and put a lot of braces, most of the weight will be in the speakers. Has anyone made diy 2x10 cabs vertically and if you have, do they stay upright if you have heavy speakers? I mean most of the weight would be attached to the front of the cab. Maybe put them in a small angle? Like only 10° just to shift the center of gravity a little? Too much thinking again?

I got the cab so I guess I'm doing this. Should this thread be moved to the "Build Diaries" or should I start a new thread? Didn't play through it yet but it should be working fine. I did briefly open it up to take measurements and found out it's made of a combination of 15 and 17 mm MDF board. So I could probably shave like 15 kg just recreating the whole thing from plywood. Didn't weigh the drivers yet but I got the basic measurements done to start planning. It has some bracing on the inside, so my next thing would be figuring out how much of the internal volume is made of all the extra stuff inside. Any tips on how to measure/estimate the volume the drivers take up? Or do I even need to measure it this way? I mean if I just imagine moving one of the side walls into the middle the inside volume is halved. And because the port is a shelf type it is halved. And because there is bracing exactly in the middle, I can forget measuring that too and actually just keep the horizontal bracing as it is. Please someone tell me I'm wrong because it's starting to look like it's way simpler than I thought and that makes me nervous somehow.

You might just have talked your way to a build thread. The way I see it, I would have material for two 2x10's. What this means is that I could work my way through to a playable cab, then take what I learned from that and build a second, nearly identical but better cab, and I would end up with cool scalable 2x2x10. I'll go ahead and haul that awful 45 kg to my basement and start measuring. My original goal with the 1x12 was to build it as light and mobile as possible. I think a slim vertical 2x10 would be the most convenient shape. Depending on how heavy the actual drivers end up being, I'm pretty sure something under 15 kg could be achievable with thin plywood if I copy the bracing from fearful cabs. I could also do some bracing on the outside and pretty easily shape them to be used as handles. Exciting times!

Google tells me this cab is tuned to 38Hz-16kHz, which seems pretty good. A small 2x10 would lose the tweeter of course. It's starting to intrique me more and more, but reverse engineering this is getting a bit too advanced for me. It has a shelf type port that for some reason is harder to understand for me. Is the volume of the port actually the deciding factor here? I know the size and length of the port does create a space inside but tuning by changing the length of a round port is just more logical concept inside my brain. Could this actually be as easy as just halving both the volume of the cab and the port?