My experience is that if you try one pedal in a shop, use similar instrument you have i.e. active (lo-Z) or passive (hi-Z). I had lots of issues with different setups until I talked to a pedal manufacturer. His guide was that I should try to find the place in the signal chain (after any active pedal the OD will receive a lo-Z signal!) and take the type of an instrument into account. So, now I have two pedal boards: A and P. (Actually a tiny third one with just a tube OD and a comp - which equals rock. :)
A list of some units I have tried. OK, many of these pedals are not from the lowest price points but there are many used and kit units that may have tempting price.
An old Russian Big Muff Pi (we just did not get along), Jan Rey Vemuram (so guitar), RAT (thin, but I heard few days ago that it could be customized), ebs multidrive (just thin), WH pork loin (very close, but no), Mög (4 channels, pretty heavy), rainger FX (possible), Rochambeau Crustacean (strange; still have it), IE Oxide, Sparkle Drive (actually quite good unit for bass), Darkglass B3k (metal) and Duality (that I liked a lot), OmkartGromt Grombass (not my cup of tea)...
Now I have Spruce OGF for passive, an amptweaker BTF for active, and that Overlord for - fun.