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I see, the NTBT or any other newer module has not the frequency tuning possibility. My old tone capsule has capacitors that can be changed, like here: https://bartolini.net/wp-content/uploads/Docs/Pickups/Legacy/9W-9V-XTBT.pdf It seems that their archive has no more the instructions to change the frequencies.

Can you tune the preamp with changing the capacitors (that are assembled to the pots)? If so, you can even make it asymmetric. bartolini has instructions for this. By the way, is the model really NTB?

I ruined my hands (especially wrists) in the 80's riding a road bike. They are cold in nearly every temperature, except sauna. I prefer hot. As I am also "seasoned", I do swim somewhat. Today my exercise was 2000 meters. The last 200 m took 2.48, which is not that bad for my age. I am also a true bassist, so I can not walk and chew bubble gum at the same time. During my playing I need to concentrate on standing still, too. I do not want to fall over...

I get your point but still think that this idea needs some refinement. Why don't you let the string go to that round brass part? Now the string has to do two corners, so it will be a chore to replace or put through. To help the string replacement, the bridge base block could be turned around to reveal those brass parts. Then the angle adjustment idea has to be changed, too. Your idea is strong, but you rely on similar looking parts. Should you use the best ideas from this and redraw it once more, please? My problem with bass bridges is that they are always "long". My fretless has a 36" scale and the instrument needs some space for the bridge. The "shortest possible" bridge would be the best solution to keep the overall length reasonable but where are the options? The attachment to the wood can be on the frontside, so please consider turning the base plate around. Hope you understand my comments. I might try to sketch it, but my drawing skills are funny/ridiculous. My little sister got all drawing molecules.

Sounds good, I hate jazz spacing up there...

If the bass has 19 mm string spacing at the bridge and 4 strings, it is "broadneck" so standard by nature. But if it has 5 strings and 19 mm spacing, it certainly is a "broadneck" or wide 5. 5-string basses may have spacing between 14 - 21.5 mm. These very wide fretboards can be found from Ibanez BTB, certain Warwicks, and far more expensive custom instruments like Modulus Graphite. There are others, too, but I just keep this comment short.

It seems that there are new Li-Ion 9V batteries: https://reactual.com/portable-electronics/rechargeable-lithium-batteries-9v.html I have to admit, that the capacity is high for the size, 600 mAh vs. 230 mAh.

Jacks were ruled out after some European regulation. Americans do not care about it that much, but they need to install Speakons, if they want to sell their amps at this side of the big water.

Turn on your radio and change the station once a day. Try to keep up. If this is very easy, I am pretty sure that you can sub a variety of bands or your ears need cleaning.

Nearly any piezo would work well (K&K or similar). Sizewise the frequency response is a bit different with smaller or bigger disks. But there are two things you should consider: the placement and the preamp. Preamp is the easier one, piezo has so high output impedance that it should be tamed with an active buffer. This high impedance may cut bass response drastically in an amp input. You can tinker one by yourself (like something FET-based) or buy one. Placement is another story. If your bass has a place for the piezo, fine, but you may need to make few trials. Bridge area is very common but as the piezo is sensitive to vibrations only, you may try any surface that vibrates. Thinner may be different (like the control cavity - remember, that both sides are fine) than the neck pocket. You can not bend a piezo (it is ceramics), but as it likes vibrations, tape or glue it very well. A tin or copper foil/tape can be used to cover the disk to prevent hum. Insulation is naturally needed in between. If you want to study a bit of acoustics, check Chladni patterns.

A X-over was the eye-opener for me. Blend is nice but two frequency bands is The Thing. KMA Tyler is very powerful, but IE Divaricator is a bit more straightforward and very fast to use.

My next flight case might be an SKB... Which is your model? I have been looking at this one: https://www.skbcases.com/music/products/proddetail.php?f=&id=655&o=&offset=&c=84&s=75

Elrick, Ritter and Sei, well they are high-end, but I can see only three, not eight? You certainly noticed, that there are lots of those F-word bolt-ons available. For some reason, whatever it might be, but certainly they are sold in numbers.

I have the mono and the stereo (M80 classic and Dual). Some older models do not have those attachments in them, so I would buy the newer version. Then the case can be fitted with their accessory case, Tick. I have a small effects board in the case. https://monocreators.com/collections/bass-cases https://monocreators.com/products/classic-tick-accessory-case-2-0-black

An accurate replacement is the best option, as the specs will be as planned. Another type of element may affect the sound and tuning a lot. X-over takes care of the impedance, so do not worry.

No. (There are no quality jacks to transfer that much energy from amp to the cab. Speakon is far better an alternative. But this is my very subjective point of view.) If you split the bass signal to two, you could drive both amps and cabs. A stereo chorus maybe...

That modern stack-pot circuit has not an active blend nor volume. They have hi-Z ("passive") first stages. The only ones that have active blend and vol are East and EMG, maybe some MEC is. signal route of a bass: pickups - blend (or vol) - vol - tone stack - output If there are no buffers right after the pickups, the hi-Z pots affect (load) pickups and change their response. I think that I tried to say this earlier.

If your equipment includes a HPF and a well set compressor (or a limiter), the system may sound pretty loud. It is reasonable to include these to that otherwise compact system if some noise is in need. I use a 2 x 10" or a 2 x 12" cabinet and a 440 W amp. Our band is 12 persons (pretty ordinary weekend warriors, I think). This setup is loud enough in clubs and bigger venues, but our band is able to play soft, too. If your gigs are in bigger venues, they usually have a decent PA to connect to (as well as a DI-box for the bass).

Well, you may try a Glockenklang. My Soul is something that just makes everything happen: fretted, fretless, double bass... I bought it in 2005. Opened it once to clean it two years ago but there was not too much dust, there. Have played quite a few gigs with it and nearly every rehearsal. I might have a Mesa 400+, because it sounds magnificent, too. But it weighs close to that 400+ lbs. so no thank you.

...that cost an arm and a leg and a kidney and a liver and... with detuners the price is over 10 k$. A used Ashula has a price tag that is less than 10 % of the Hyperbass. http://www.zonguitars.com/zonguitars/bassbuilder/index_hyp.htm https://reverb.com/marketplace?query=ibanez ashula If you are really lucky, you may find a fretless tune Bass Maniac with 3 octave fretboard. But it is really rare! I think that Ibanez has recently had a fretless with over 2 octave fretboard in their catalogue.

Friend of mine has this and got some lotion to help the symptoms. Later on he found out that he was allergic to some ingredient of the lotion... so beware. By the way, you might try that newer Ibanez Ashula 7-string to play with both fretted and fretless in one neck. Lots of tuning possibilities included!

Thank you, Sir, very good, this sounds very reasonable. I was on the right track.