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adamg67

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  1. @tvickey I went for the Palmer Daccapo, their gear has always seemed pretty solid to me. I've checked the reamped signal against the original and it sounds spot on to my amateur ears and has the volume trim pot so you can get the signals the same level with your setup. It does take XLR in but adapters are cheap enough - I just made a cable for it, helps justify buying my soldering station 🙂
  2. I know we have emojis and acronyms and all that, but... that really made me laugh out loud!
  3. Funnily enough, I said to the mrs yesterday that the best thing about my stingray 5 stealth black is that it has a black pickgaurd on a black background - perfect colour combo for that design
  4. I just had this happen to me, literally a couple of weeks ago! Modes seemed a bizarre way of looking at things until I saw how it worked on piano. I think learning another and quite different instrument (I'm currently a comfortable Grade 0 on piano, but improving a lot ) has really helped my theory, and my bass playing.
  5. adamg67

    What laptop?

    Laptop-wise, spec will come down to how many tracks you want to play & record, and how many plugins (effects etc) you want on them. It sounds like you won't need lots of either, so no need to go crazy on the spec. If you want something that will definitely do the job, my guess at a safe bet spec would be: Quad core i5 (doesn't need to be latest gen especially) should do it easily, don't worry too much about clock speed. Avoid i3, no need to spend money on i7. Avoid things like Celeron. I'm not up on the current crop of AMD chips so can't comment. 4G RAM, but 8 is better and shouldn't cost a lot more nowadays Plenty of disk, but if you can get SSD that will be much better than a traditional hard drive - it's not vital but SSDs are getting cheaper now anyway. probably not worth getting less than 250G given prices, more is better. Obvious I know but make sure you've got the right ports for the audio interface you want. Get one with a decent motherboard and chipset. Cheap motherboards can screw your I/O. You can do definitely do it for less, but the closer you get to a minimum spec the more you risk latency issues etc, so it's up to you how far you push it. Lots of the DAWs will have a published minimum spec as well.
  6. It's really not the A/D conversion that's adding latency for jamming online, it's sending the data across the network. Go in a high end studio and they will be using A/D when tracking, and often A/D then D/A if you've got any effects on the monitoring. The latency for that is tiny with modern hardware and what latency there is comes down to getting the data in and out of whatever is processing it, not doing the conversion - that's why thunderbolt is lower latency than USB. Digital multi effects and pedals do A/D and D/A so fast that no one even realises it's happening, and that's been the case for years. Domestic broadband isn't optimised for very low latency, you might be lucky and get it good enough or you might not, with a bit of luck you'll get it good enough for a jam. Using a wired connection instead of wifi can help a lot.
  7. For screwing things to walls, I work on the principle that the screws are there to pull the things tight to the wall, if they're flush and being pulled against the wall it's the friction that stops them moving downwards. That's what screws are for, for pulling two surfaces tight to each other. I wouldn't use a guitar hanger that wasn't pulled flat to the wall with some nice tight screws. The last ones I put up werent' flat on the back so I sanded them down until they were.
  8. I got straplocks on my Jake and they were fitted fine, but I noticed over time that they stuck more than my others. I checked them out and they are fake Schallers, I had to replace the strap ends and then everything worked okay. You can see the difference as the real thing has the writing on the instrument side of the strap bits, if you see what I mean. You could see they weren't quite the right shape either. Shame on a bass which is otherwise just excellent
  9. I've got an Elwood that I bought second hand which has Haussel J/J pickups and a Delano preamp and that sounds great to me. it's so hard to describe tones and it's the only J style bass I've had, but I was really pleased with how much low end it can do and with the character it has.
  10. How do they make those isolated bass tracks? I'm assuming they're not from the original multi track, and done with some kind of processing of the whole song? If that's true I doubt the original tone has survived intact. Edit - the Flea one sounds much too clean to be anything but the actual bass track.
  11. @SpondonBassed That's a good point, if the aim is to keep water off something WD40 is indeed a good call.
  12. *engage pedant mode* Just while it's been mentioned: WD40 is not as good for freeing and lubricating things as lots of people seem to think. For loosening things, penetrating oil is much better, for lubricating pretty much any lubricating oil is better, like some basic 3 in 1. https://lifehacker.com/when-should-i-not-use-wd-40-5891936 https://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/a6064/wd-40-vs-the-world-of-lubricants/ *disengage pedant mode*
  13. Now that is smart thinking.
  14. That was all pretty random, it did reinforce the fact that the best thing to do is buy second hand and try things out for yourself. I've got a vintage ultra at the mo and it sounds a lot better to me than the one in the video did, it needs a bit of time spent getting it right for a given bass. I'll be looking out for more DI pedals to try it against when I've got some pennies saved, what I like will stay and what I don't like will get sold on. I suppose it gives you a bit of an idea what the pedals do, no way it tells you which is "best". Sounds all a bit negative I know but the more reviews I see of gear I actually own the less I think they help.
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