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  1. Xotic Bass RC Booster (v1) - £75 including UK Postage Original / v1 version of the well known and well thought of boost / tone shaper / pre amp. It can be used as a clean boost but a lot of people use them as an always on pedals. With the gain down it's good for shaping, with the gain up it will warm the tone up, almost to the point of drive. I used this and a cab sim for my whole tone for a while, and would still be doing that if I hadn't gone for a Kemper. Fully working, I replaced the LED when it stopped working, with the one that Xotic specced for it. A few small marks, velcro on the bottom, one screw missing. Only posting to the UK at the mo, sorry.
  2. Indeed, and I shouldn’t assume what you meant, and I shouldn’t post after a bottle of red (but I probably will do it again) 😀 I might try drop D on a spare guitar I’ve got when I’m feeling brave.
  3. Okay, I get it now. I’m bit slow sometimes. The OP was talking about using a drop pedal to shift everything down. I was suggesting just using an octaver to shift everything down a whole octave and then you can eg go up to a “normal” D, in its normal place, and get something that sounds a bit like the low D from drop D tuning. I’ve done that and it sounds pretty good, and all the notes are still the same notes.
  4. Now I’m lost… this is exactly what doesn’t work for me, I want the same note at the same place, which is what I get with a 5er or an octaver. Same notes in the same place. What I don’t get on with (but other people obviously do fine with) is drop tuning, including with extenders etc.
  5. Well yeah, that does make sense, and I was all 5 string at one point, but I had quite a bad wrist problem and starting switching to 4 string for everything, but still kept one 5er I didn’t want to part with, which also has narrow string spacing so is better for my wrist. now it seems to have improved (I adapted my left hand position) and I can’t decide whether to switch back. One of the 4s is an AVRI 63 P as well. It’s only one project that needs a 5 really, the current active band I could use a 4, as it happens I use my 5 but only because of the pickups and because the AVRI has rounds on it.
  6. Do you mean, because you would be playing higher up but getting lower notes? I suppose I don’t notice too much because they’re parts I’ve written from scratch, and I’m getting the note I expect, sort of.
  7. So, to elaborate on "switching between tunings would do my head in" (which TBH is pretty clear to start with, and it's clear that an extender would do my head in, since what it does is switch between tunings). I don't want to (and don't have to) deal with 2 different tunings where the patterns and relationship between the strings is different. I don't want low E to move to a different place, especially when I'm making stuff up. One of the best things about bass for me is that everything is in 4ths and the patterns don't change, adn the relationhips between each string is the same. I have a couple of ways of getting down to lower notes if I want them, one is my 5 string, which I'm using in a band at the mo and it works a treat. I can switch between 5 and 4 no problems these days, and often do. The other is an octaver as above, which I like, it's different and has a really nice werid effect where you can go up the fretboard and end up at the same pitch. Both of them keep all the 4 string notes in the same place, and all the strings tuned in 4ths. Tuning to drop D, however it's achieved, doesn't do that. Hopefully that makes it clear why I reallly wouldn't like a d-tuner, extender etc. But then, I kind of think you knew that already
  8. I'm going for delayed reply of the year here. I'm writing with a guitarist who plays exclusively in drop D, but I'm not exclusively writing or playing with him and do a lot of other stuff, and switching between tunings would do my head in.
  9. It's interesting when people say they have "invested" time in a band. It's like the sunk cost fallacy, it can make you keep doing something you don't want to do. I've thought about this recently with joining a new band, since you never know how it's going to go. I'm looking at it as something that will last as long as it lasts, and I need to be happy spending the time doing it and also not bothered if it suddenly stops. I'm getting a lot out of learning new songs, my playing is already noticeably better than a couple of months ago when I didn't have the push to do more, and so far so good as far as enjoying it. I'll commit to doing stuff and that's part of being in a band for me but it doesn't owe me anything and neither do the band members individually.
  10. As far a getting fired goes, I was fired as guitarist from the first “proper” band I was in, back in the 90s. The other guitarist / songwriter said what I was playing was boring and derivative. I had a think about it, decided maybe he was right and I should shake things up a bit and went and traded my geetar and amp for a Hohner “The Jack” headless bass and a Peavey TNT. I bumped into the guy who’d sacked me in town a month or two later, asked how it was going. Turns out they sacked the bass player as well and were struggling to find a new one. I rejoined on bass and it worked a treat, he liked my (pretty simple but hopefully effective) bass lines, we all liked his songs. Had a fun couple of years gigging round Leeds. I guess the short version is the only time I got fired the guy was doing me a big favour and I never looked back.
  11. IK iRig HD 2 for iPhone / iPad / Mac (lightning connector + USB A connector for Mac) + Power Bridge - £80 posted (UK only) 1 in 1 out Audio interface. With an app like Amplitube (there are plenty more) it turns your iPhone or iPad into a complete bass rig (once amplified, obviously). With something like garage band you can record and/or play back. I've used it for both on my iPad pro and it worked really well. Works as a really flexible practice rig as well with the headphone out. I've never used it with a Mac, and it comes with USB A and not USB C. One of the drawbacks for longer sessions is that it draws power from the device, which can't be charged while the iRig is being used. That's where the included iRig Powerbridge comes in, it sites between the iRig and the device and adds power so you can play all day. Even if you rarely use it it's a very handy thing to have in the bag for that one time which it turns out you forgot to charge your iPad. It came with a wuro cable but I've got hold of a UK one which is included. All boxed and in excellent condition. I bought this to use for guitar, so I could have Amplitube on home recording PC and on a portable rig, but I've never really got the guitar thing going (and I've now got a Kemper, mainly for bass but it does guitar nicely as well so I use it for that too). I have used it a few times as a portable rig to take with me when I was away, I reckon it's had about 20 hours use total. iRig HD 2: High definition digital guitar interface for iPhone, iPad, Mac and PC High-quality instrument-level 1/4" Hi-Z input jack Detachable cables for Lightning and USB included Preamp input gain control Headphone output with preamp and level control 1/4" Amp Out jack with switchable output “FX” and “Thru” High-quality low-noise, high-definition guitar preamp High-quality 24-bit A/D conversion 96kHz sampling rate – the highest in its class Powered by the iOS device or USB Can be used with line level signals from synthesizers, keyboards and mixers Ultra-compact and lightweight – fits in your pocket, laptop bag or gig bag Comes with microphone stand mounting clip and Velcro strip Full info here: https://www.ikmultimedia.com/products/irighd2/ and plenty of reviews out there. iRig Powerbridge: Allows continuous use and charging of an iOS device while connected to a digital iRig accessory Works with iRig accessories with Lightning connectivity from a Micro-USB or Mini-DIN port Ultra-low noise audiophile-grade power conditioner Status LED indicates when device is charging Full info here: https://www.ikmultimedia.com/products/irigpowerbridge/
  12. The last couple I’ve shipped I’ve sent UPS after reading a lot of T&Cs and ruling out a lot of big names because they didn’t cover instruments for damage. UPS did (check before sending though) and the extra insurance for the actual value was only something like £6. I’ve never tried to claim from them happily but it seemed pretty clear that a properly packed bass (hard case wrapped in cardboard) was covered for both loss and damage to the full amount I’d insured it for. The same could not be said for the others I looked at, and there are some that specifically exclude musical instruments from their insurance. Never really looked at the brokers after the feedback on here that generally, if things go wrong, they just leave you to deal with the carrier and don’t help at all.
  13. If you do, let me know and I'll do a reaction video.
  14. Do you have extra gravity?
  15. Okay… so first thing to say is that this is just what the BC hive mind has already said above but in more detail (I’ve got time to poke about on the iPad while laid up with everyone’s favourite virus, although my temperature at any given time can limit my ability to think straight ) I couldn’t find that part number for sale in the uk (not genuine Samsung anyway) or on the Samsung site but did find it on a US site which had the main specs, which look right based on what’s on the Samsung site for similar part numbers: https://harddiskdirect.com/m378a1k43eb2-cwe-samsung-8gb-pc4-25600-ddr4-3200mhz-non-ecc-unbuffered-cl22-udimm-1-2v-single-rank-memory-modules.html Specs are: 8GB PC4-25600 DDR4-3200MHz non-ECC Unbuffered CL22 UDIMM 1.2V Single-Rank Memory Module Lenovo aren’t very helpful with mobo manuals, so even if the memory is replaced the safest thing to do is stick to that spec and you know the motherboard supports it. If the crucial scanner is right you can go up to 32G in a slot so that spec in 8, 16 or 32G should be good, bearing in mind that you need the same size modules if there are more than one. The good news is that looks like a pretty common spec so you can go with a sensible make, a couple of obvious examples for 8 and 16 gig: https://www.cclonline.com/ct8g4dfra32a-crucial-8gb-1x8gb-3200mhz-ddr4-memory/ https://www.cclonline.com/ct16g4dfra32a-crucial-16gb-1x16gb-3200mhz-ddr4-memory/ Couple of obvious Options: 1. Get one of the crucial 8G modules, or something similar, and add it alongside the Samsung. Specs are good, but run a full memory test (there are memory test tools that boot off a USB drive and do some mad clever tests, and some newer ones that don’t need to be be bootable that I havn’t tried). If there are any issues, you’ve got the option of swapping the original Samsung module out for a second crucial one, after checking everything is in the right slot etc, and sticking the Samsung one on eBay. You’re also on relatively popular and easy to source memory so if you want to go up again (you would have to double it to 32G) you can, but you shouldn’t need to. 2. Get one of crucial 16G modules and stick the Samsung 8G one on eBay. No need to guess about slots (although that should be easy) just replace one with the other. Although there’s no guarantee the old memory will sell there’s a pretty good chance if you put the full specs on. I’d stick it on for £40 posted and see what happens. Again you’re on something common so can upgrade if you want. This would probably be what I’d do. obviously happy for other people to chip in (like it would matter if I wasn’t ), I’m just an enthusiastic amateur with desktop hardware.
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