MoonBassAlpha

Well, a bit of an update. I left it for a while in case the affected area had gone soft or something, but the Autosol still wasn't doing it. This made me think even more that it was the solvent in it causing the problem, as it does smell a bit petrol-like. So I tried something with a fine abrasive but no nasty solvent. So, toothpaste it was!. At first it seemed no better, but a bit of elbow grease brought the shine back. What a relief, and minty fresh too! I count that as a good save, and free too. Hope this may help someone else in the future.

Nice one. They're cool little amps, and sound good with guitar too. The eq is a bit quirky to use. I've done my last 2 gigs with one, into a couple of decent 12" cabs.

Nah, just a nasty itch!

Cutlass reminds me of a Bronco for some reason.

I'd say, given the similarity of construction, the tension would be about the same.

You can put 2 caps in series to halve the value or in parallel to double. That's probably the range of values most people will muck about with anyhow...

[quote name='Manton Customs' timestamp='1453653749' post='2961427'] Sorry to hear that. I'm assuming it's a 74 Gibson SG, which means Nitro. So it sounds like a reaction with the Dunlop stuff. There is Silicone in the Dunlop 65, which is not good for Nitro. Can you post pics? I'm pretty sure I've used Autosol on Nitro before, as well as the Meguiars Ultimate I mentioned earlier. This (Ultimate) is more mild in terms of abrasive so I usually use this on Nitro (nitro is generally softer than Poly). [/quote] I tried a bit of the Autosol on the back and the reaction wasn't so bad - it removed a scuff but still took some work to polish out. Maybe it is just going over the reacted bit on the front that is not working properly. I wonder if I should try something a little coarser first then go back to the Autosol?

I bought some Dunlop polish yesterday, worked fine cleaning finger marks off a poly covered guitar. Tried it on my old SG ('74). Bloody disaster. The finish has gone cloudy and very satin. Tried some Autosol and that is no better. Any of the other products mentioned above remedy this issue? Cheers

Just south of Oxford, I can do set-ups and soldering, surface-mount component rework, fret levelling. I don't charge for work, as it's been mostly for friends and bc'ers. I'm Jules, btw.

[quote name='Happy Jack' timestamp='1453373549' post='2958808'] Reverting to another post by the OP (above), if we were to turn up and play for £250 and then find that she had also engaged a DJ and was paying him £500, that wouldn't worry me. I'm not concerned about how much others earn. [/quote] .. And that's why you're happy, Jack

PM'd

More likely something in the preamp has got blown up. The voltage level from the speaker out will most likely be too high for the input op amp. I think it's highly unlikely the output transistors will be blown as it would represent a high impedance load. This could be good news, as op amp cost peanuts. Try putting a line level signal into the effects return socket. See if the power amp section is working at least.

[quote name='bonzodog' timestamp='1452939764' post='2954851'] Could be string height? Is the E string closer to the pickups than the others. You could try raising the E string a bit to see if that makes a difference [/quote] Or lowering the pickup on the e side a small amount.

[quote name='stevie' timestamp='1452849092' post='2953990'] Would you care to substantiate that claim? [/quote] Volume displacement of the driver?

I think it's on a slightly different scale Bilbo - you're not flying in artists from abroad (and all that entails) to put on a big rock show that costs real bucks to put on. I think what you do is great though and kudos for doing it.

My last 2 gigs have been with a 15W Valve ashdown head and 2 BF Midgets. Sounds nice enough to me with the master on 7-8. Not super loud, of course, but enough on stage. It gets the output valves working nicely without ridiculous volume.

They'd be a nice match for my avatar bass.

Well, mystery solved. I took them in to work and inspected them under the microscope. The mesh pieces protecting the diaphragms were completely clogged with wax. The mesh is so fine it isn't at all easy to see if the gaps are clogged, and the fine mesh isn't all that easy to clean. Fortunately they pop out quite easily and scrubbing with a cotton bud and iso-propyl alcohol has mostly done the job. Some bits needed poking through with a very fine strand of wire. I hope this helps someone, as I was certainly very near chucking them out. Good as new now!

I used the 2x12 tc cab, and whilst it had a lovely solid bass, the treble was non-existent as in the treble on the amp made no audible difference. This cab didn't have a tweeter. I don't use a really toppy sound at all but found the cab very bass focused.

I've an inexpensive pair of Sennheiser earbud type phones that I have previously a-b'd against my 2 other pairs and found largely similar, ie no noticeably nasty artefacts. I just converted (wav-mp3) a tune we recorded and checked it on my buds and it sounded terrible, overly bass heavy and a little distorted. Went to get my good headphones (over ears)to rule out pc soundcard or conversion issues and, thankfully, all sounded fine. Is it that the buds have somehow deteriorated (but both channels the same?) or the fact these go in my earoles not on them? If I had to guess from the sound, it's like they've got fluff in them pressing on he diaphragm, but they look clean enough and the fine mesh should keep anything out that could make that sort of impact, shouldn't it?

Err, that's what I meant by "it's no aluminium, but"

Anyone seen the Stash Bass? http://stashstainlessbass.com/ I know it's not Aluminium but worth a look if you like basses made from metal. <1 inch radius "fretboard" anyone

So what is your own personal formula for your onstage sound? It may be useful for many on here who haven't arrived at it for themselves yet.

Could you wire the P pickup in parallel instead of series to reduce the output a bit?