MoonBassAlpha

Yes. No problem unless both pedals exceed the psu total rating.

6.0 user here. Use it on all my gigs. It's a very neutral sounding thing. No complaints.

So if it's ~200W into 4 ohms, do they say what it puts out into an 8 ohm load?

I think I will be IN this month, we've just recorded a cover that we've knocked about a couple of times over the years, but tonight we changed the genre. Drums, guitar and vox down, just need to put a more coherent bass on, then mix, and, by Jove!, it'll be done!

I'm wondering if the voice coil is distorted and rubbing on the magnet as the cone resonates? Unless the speaker has an obvious tear in it, it's hard to see how else it could make a noise under passive resonance.

Yeah it's not beyond the realms of possibility that the speaker would have a resonant frequency of ~82 Hz if it's not a specialist bass speaker.

One caveat I would add: I've found my cheaper sennheisers (202?) are good for the money, but don't handle loud uncompressed bass as well as the studiospares. I suspect this would be one of the distinctions between the £20 ish vs £50 ish phones across the board. If you don't practice too loudly, or aren't having to track in the same room as a live drummer, this would be less of an issue for you. HTH MBA

Are they the DFS of the plugin world?

I have found hot melt glue doesn't always adhere to some surfaces long -term whereas silicone has very good adhesion to most as long as it is clean and dry.

The Studiospares M2000 are open backed, have a long lead (detachable and replaceable) and are currently £49. Quite a neutral sound, certainly not bass-hyped. I think they are being superceded soon so selling off at a really good price (were 69 quid for years). They also have surprisingly low amounts of spill for tracking vocals, I was pleasantly surprised. I think these would fit your criteria very nicely.

Typical, the bass player does all the work and the keyboard player just sits round noodling away...

I'd take the strings off and remove the bridge piece. The Piezo element should be under there. It's worth looking in the groove it sits in to see that it is flat and no bits of wood or dust are in the slot. Also the underside of the bridge piece should be flat and smooth to make even contact on the piezo element. I have seen bridge pieces that have a slight scallop so that each string presses down on the piezo with a bit more pressure. Even the act of removing the bridge and replacing it might help. I had a guitar where the bridge was so tight in it's slot that it didn't allow even pressure under all the strings. I found that out by pressing down on the bridge using the plastic handle of a screwdriver whilst playing the quiet string. All things to try before giving up on it!

New strings?

Refoaming seems to have gone well, both cones centred ok without rubbing. My friend has now refitted them and is running in gently. I asked if there were any farting sounds, and he said "yes, but they're all coming from me!" (He may have had a few beers at the weekend!) He does like his bass, and is a little deaf, so we'll see how they fare once he opens them up! I told him to listen and watch out for tears in the cone, but he was running them for a while without any foam at all, so he may not even notice Thanks for the input folks! MBA

Looks like silicone in there already, so I'd go with that. Small dabs only.

Good stuff mate, unashamedly retro sounding. Reminds me of the Snake Corps in parts

Bilbo and his Wal.

Good to see the bass well represented.

Thanks chaps, sounds like this one could be "interesting"

I'm re-foaming the surrounds for a set of hifi woofers for a friend. I've done this a few times now on different models, but these have a crease in one of the (paper) cones. Anyone know of any tricks or tips for sorting this? cheers MBA

Very realistic, sounds like a fairly poor pub standard drummer playing a nice kit.

Be aware those tabs have a certain range of panel thicknesses they will accommodate. Maybe that's why the hot melt glue was there...