MoonBassAlpha

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='785022' date='Mar 24 2010, 07:13 PM']Not quite sure how you are figuring that. Square wave distortion sounds nasty, and if it is coming from before the power amp, its not comparable to clipping the power amp into square wave territory.[/quote] It's happening at high volume. That is exactly what is happening.

just a note of caution here with the feedback thing. You will effectively be driving a full power square wave into your speakers. If you do this for long-ish periods you will end up dissipating a lot of heat in them, it is the way to blow them up.

The tuners look out of proportion to the head to me. Like Wayne Rooney's ears.

[quote name='Twigman' post='767678' date='Mar 8 2010, 10:26 AM']Rodeo Club Athens Greece Friday 12th and Saturday 13th March..... €23[/quote] you lucky man! Have a great time Ian. I've got 2 gigs on the trot too, in, er Oxford and Paignton! Not exactly Greece though is it?

The good thing about amps of this vintage is that just about anything IS repairable, as they use discrete components and simple ICs. Any decent tech should be able to sort out any fault, really. I'd be more worried about modeling amps and class D power stages...

It's an interesting question, but it also asks "what are we aspiring to these days?" I think it really shows what an influence these guys/this style had then.

Just got a nearly new tip-top condition strap from Gareth. Good comms and delivery. Cheers dude. Jules

Does it only drop volume when used with an active bass?

Well done, we love a happy ending here!

Hi there collective Oracle. I'm after any tips for doing this as I have a lot or sharp ends sticking out on a recently aquired instrument. There is no binding and it is a one piece maple neck. How do you protect the wood whilst getting medieval on the frets? Cheers Jules

WD40 oil should do the trick. You might need to grip it with some small pliers to get it moving. Use a bit of card to protect the bridge.

+1 to a Jack bass, they are so well balanced and light (mine is 7.5 lbs) you hardly notice they're on. They're so cheap you could leave one at the church and not worry about it! They have a jazz width neck too.

[quote name='HLAVA' post='734100' date='Feb 3 2010, 02:45 PM']well, i did not ask but if you want to tell us....[/quote] Well, I think it is quite likely it's the guy I go to, Steve Kendall of East Hanney, Oxfordshire. It's just that I remember him saying he had done a new body in zebrano for a Travis Bean for someone. I believe the original body had split, or something. Later, he saw it up on eBay being passed off as original and had to correct the seller. When I was talking to him, I assumed it was a guitar, but it is too much of a coincidence. I'm sure, if you contacted him, he'd give you the full history of the job. www.stevekendallguitars.co.uk/ Hope this is of interest/help cheers Jules

[quote name='HLAVA' post='732415' date='Feb 1 2010, 11:49 PM']no, this is a 1:1 zebra-wood replica body made by an uk luthier.[/quote] I think I know who made that zebrano body if you're interested (and don't already know, of course!) Jules

Ricky, Butchered?? [attachment=41440:images_9_.jpg]

The body looks a bit like one of the Alembic shapes now, can't remember which one though. That's a LOT of work for someone to take on, with a questionable outcome!

One tip my luthier recommended, especially applicable to rosewood necks, as they tend to splinter more as you remove the fret, is to glue each splinter back in position as the fret is removed so you get a perfect fit and no blurring of the line when you fill it. I think he used superglue to do this. I've used Plastic Wood woodfiller to do 2 basses now - Pine colour for a maple board and Mahogany or "Dark Wood" possibly for a rosewood one where I didn't want the contrast to be too contrasty. This way you can still see the lines if you need to, but from a distance it looks pretty much like a plain board, which is tons cooler looking (imho). A fretless neck I had supplied specially was done with black lines on Pau Ferro which also looks nice, but nearly invisible under low lighting. If you look at Jaco's bass, specifically the picture on the front of his Biography, you can see he's just ripped 'em out with pliers and filled the slots with lots of evidence of splintering. Looks fine on a Mojo'd bass, but you might want to make a better job of it on something you're proud of.... or might want to sell further down the line! Cheers Jules

[quote name='mansfield' post='726019' date='Jan 27 2010, 08:30 AM']Thanks for that Jack, I'd already taken a look at the list - but as you say there's none actually in Oxford. As I don't have a car, and have 3 basses that need looking at, I can't really get very far with them; so someone in Oxford would be rather useful![/quote] There's got to be a few members in Oxford who would at least look at them for you. What are the specific issues? I'm playing the Port Mahon on Feb 4 and the Wheatsheaf on the 5th. If you were to bring one along, I'd happily take a look for you. Cheers Jules

[quote name='dangerboy' post='725910' date='Jan 26 2010, 11:42 PM']nom nom nom nom nom[/quote] So DB, how good are these, as one who knows?

Has Steve Kendall, near Oxford (East Hanney) had a mention yet? He only works part time luthiering and does a nice job for a very reasonable price. He also specialises in Valve amps pre 1980. He's done a tricky repair, some nice fret end finish, and a Laney Supergroup 100W head repair for me. He builds the occasional bass and guitar too. [url="http://www.stevekendallguitars.co.uk/"]http://www.stevekendallguitars.co.uk/[/url] cheers Jules

Phew! that's a relief!