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Dan Dare

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Everything posted by Dan Dare

  1. True, but that has a lot to do with the fact that so many of the major manufacturers use B&O ICEPower modules.
  2. How are we defining a practice amp, here? Size, price, power?
  3. For a better quality small format mixer, have a look at the Mackie VLZ range. This is the smallest - https://www.gear4music.com/PA-DJ-and-Lighting/Mackie-402-VLZ4-4-Channel-Analog-Compact-Mixer/UVQ. Much better mic preamps than most small/inexpensive mixers and well built.
  4. A lot of instrument for the money, provided you can stand the banana headstock.
  5. Sensible words from Dangoose. If we want compact, light, powerful amps, we have to accept the design trade offs, which include the fact that a way has to be found to keep them from overheating. If we don't want large heatsinks, that means a fan.
  6. Those Carvin pre-amps are great. I have the B1000 as a backup and the eq is excellent.
  7. Peavey PV1500 is indeed a power amp, so will need line level (at least .775mv) to drive it adequately. A bass without a preamp will not provide that and neither will most pedals.
  8. Why doesn't he want to sell? Just because he won't do what you want? Perhaps he's just wary. Selling music gear is a minefield. I usually insist on collection by the buyer unless I receive cash from the person who collects. Try offering him that and see.
  9. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 1 post to view.
  10. 335 case? Or a case for a Dreadnought sized acoustic guitar may do it, although the neck may be too long.
  11. East make an excellent product, but I felt the J Retro I fitted to my J bass, whilst being super clean and having more of everything than the passive set-up, robbed the instrument of some of its essential character. In the end, I sold it and went back to passive. I'd certainly agree with others above who recommend trying different pickups first before changing the pre'.
  12. They look in excellent shape and I like the price. I use 4 HK Premium Pro10s as monitors and they work very well.
  13. Take your head to a well-stocked shop and try it with a few cabs. Don't listen to us. We'll all recommend what we like and there's no guarantee you'll feel the same.
  14. Bill's correct as usual. Just disconnect the tweeter. Once you're used to the lack of ticking and clattering, fret rattle and general nastiness in your sound, you'll be much happier
  15. I like the look of those and don't care what they look like. If a drink goes over and gets sucked into the electronics of my Fohhn powered subs by the fans, replacement cost is about that of a decent second hand car.
  16. Ernie Bell? Used to know him. Had a fruit and veg' stall on the Holloway Road. Real local character. Didn't realise he was a luthier on the side.
  17. Seconded, m'lud. Restrained, classy and rather British
  18. The headphone out will most likely be stereo and at more than line level, so you could use it but be cautious. You'll need to mono the signal (use a stereo to mono lead) and either use some kind of attenuator - a passive DI box with variable resistors on board ought to do it, for example - or run the output from the headphone socket into the active input of the higher powered amp if it has one. Start with the volume at minimum on the amp you're feeding and increase with caution.
  19. Good points, but classical musicians appear woefully ignorant of any threat to their hearing compared to those of us who play electric instruments. There seems to be a commonly held perception that unamplified instruments are not capable of causing damage.
  20. Yes, I have tried one. I have owned/still own a fair amount of PJB kit. The Double 4 can be deceiving, because you can place it close to you, even at ear level due to its small size and hear yourself quite well. However, it has very limited projection at any distance. It just doesn't move enough air. I used to have a Flightcase and that didn't do the job in anything other than very quiet, smallish rooms, so a Double 4 certainly won't. As Hiram says above, you need at least a Suitcase in any real-world situation (I use my 4B - essentially a Suitcase minus amplification - with a head for smaller jobs).
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