Dan Dare

7 is closest, apart from my vintage Jazz. I never smile when I'm playing.

Could I enter a plea that you don't bling it up? It's cute as it is (and also likely to be rare because relatively few will have been sold).

It is indeed a minefield. The biggest problem is that, if you are not happy, it can be impossible to get any redress. I'd tend to avoid making a major purchase and stick to ordering low value items from such sites.

Utterly brilliant reply. I want Eric in my band. The original has to be a p1ss take, too. Surely nobody can be that much of a d1ck.

Worth thinking about a pre and power setup? A decent bass pre with a PA power amp will be as big iron as anyone needs. I used to use a BBE pre with a QSC power amp that, bridged, gave 1450w. Including a rack mount tuner, it all fitted in a 4u rack case and wasn't that heavy.

This, together with balance, is what counts, rather than weight. I once forgot my strap and had to borrow a piece of string to bodge something at the gig. After a couple of hours, it felt as if someone was sawing into my shoulder, even with a light (8 lb approx.) well balanced instrument. I eased it a bit by putting apiece of thick cardboard torn from a box between the string and my shoulder, but I was sore for a couple of days afterwards.

The main thing to look out for is that the thicker winding should not wrap around the tuning peg. I'd measure the length of the winding on your existing strings from ball end to just beyond the nut and look for strings that have the same wound length.

I think it's just tradition - always been that way and string makers don't wish to change in case it puts purchasers off. Originally, stringed instruments would have had wooden pegs, so the silk helped stop them biting into the pegs. Even with metal, the winding doesn't usually extend to the part that wraps around the peg, so the thinner core under tension would be more likely to mark/damage the peg, whether wood or metal.

This. So it's likely that NAMM will either be able to provide some advice or at least point you in the right direction. Has to be worth asking.

Anyone wanna buy my Sandburger?

Thanks. Good spot. I fancy those tiger wood ones.

Not a lot

Being an old git, I went to the Isle of Wight in 1970 and Weeley the following year. Great fun if you were in your late teens, but can't imagine doing it now. And yes, the bogs were truly terrible.

This. You can't be the only person taking instruments to NAMM that include CITES regulated materials.

That black headstock's a home bodge. Look at the overspray on the nut. Adds a certain charm, I suppose. Poor thing's been butchered. Oh and it's a Squier. Says "Made in Indonesia" on the back of the headstock.

Relisted at £300. Still a giltar...

Go on. Your wallet (and your back) will thank you 😈

Is anything shorting inside the body cavity? When I used a J Retro, it was quite deep and could short against the screening if it touched.

Difficult to answer. It's worth whatever a willing buyer is prepared to pay.

You'll need to check the minimum impedance external speaker yours can drive (especially if the existing speaker is 4 ohm). I'd suggest trying to match the existing driver as closely as possible for consistency (assuming you like the sound it makes and just want more of it). Would be worth taking it to a decent shop and trying a few with it, rather than buying on spec' or recommendation.

A 210 or 115 won't be a lot smaller than what you have and (in view of your comment about the VDK, which is bound to be recommended) may not weigh any or much less or take up very much less space. Why not invest in a decent trolley for the 212 so it's an easier carry and save some money?

Yep. Straightforward job. You can get self adhesive copper screening tape off Amazon or eBay quite cheaply. RS Components do a decent sized roll for not too much money, too, if you want a bit more. You just need to unscrew and lift the scratchplate and stick it all over the inside of the body cavity (one layer is fine - no need to use yards of the stuff). Make sure it doesn't short against the jack terminals or any of the wiring. Remove the pots from the scratchplate and put a layer over the inside of the plate where it covers the body cavity. Then poke a hole for the pots and replace them. That will earth the pot bodies to the screening tape. It sounds as if your bridge is grounded already if the hum quietens when you touch the strings

Through neck? And some quite decent woodwork and finishing from the look of it. Far too well built for my taste.

Mine too.

Leave the bridge ground wire in situ' and just add a ground wire to connect the shielding to one of the pot bodies. You only need to put tape over the underside of the p/g where it covers the body cavities.