Dan Dare

As I use flats and like them when they have bedded in, I didn't, so I think the change was due to the bridge.

Brian who?

I'm not given to buying into snake oil, but I noticed a small improvement when I installed a Babicz - slightly better note definition/clarity, especially at the low end - on my J bass. It looks nice, too, which is a bonus. No hope for me. It'll be snazzy cables for the hi-fi next...

Not for me. It's a mass produced instrument (not even custom or one off). The fact that it has been in the hands of someone famous doesn't add any value to it imho. To each his own, I know, but 40k buys something really nice or even a number of really nice things.

In addition to the Double Four recommended above, if you don't mind used, you should be able to pick up a nice used Phil Jones Flightcase and definitely a Bass Cub within your budget. If you must have new, the Double Four would be a good choice. I picked up a mint used Flightcase for £350 a couple of years ago and it was excellent. I only sold it because I later bought several small PJB cabs, any one which, with a small class D head, makes a fine home/practice rig, so the Flightcase was surplus to requirements.

I tried to arrange to go to see that and the seller never replied. Good luck with it.

Of course. PM me your address.

Taken off a bass I just bought. Don't like rounds. Not even taken up to pitch. PM me your address if you'd like them.

I'd by a cheapy on line and have. Wouldn't buy an expensive instrument without trying it in the flesh/wood first.

Given that many class D heads use the same - typically IcePower in the case of Mesa and Aguilar - power modules, the differences you're hearing between them are due to the choices of the preamp designer. So rather than change your entire head (which always costs you money - you never get back what you paid for the one you move on), would trying a few alternative preamps with it make sense?

Good to know. I've been getting a few iffy emails lately. When I hover the cursor over them, they give odd email addresses, including my own (don't know how that works). Have had several purporting to be from TV Licensing lately, which have purportedly come from me (?). As I'm one of those weirdos who hasn't got a TV (and yes, Licensing has visited me to confirm I don't), was suspicious, to say the least.

No, but if I do, shall delete it unopened. Sounds as if someone (not Ashdown) is up to no good. If you want to see who it's really from, hover the cursor over the email in your inbox and the sender's name will be displayed.

Several Fenders on FleaBay at the moment for not too unreasonable prices. A pal has a Cort Rithimic, which is a J bass clone. It's a very good instrument and they aren't that expensive. If I didn't have my '72 Jazz, I'd certainly consider one.

Are the odd looking inlays actually inlays, or has someone put those stickers on that tell you which notes are which?

Cort do some decent mid range instruments. If you don't want to push the boat out too much, they're worth looking at.

In the same vein, why does the Gibson Citation jazz guitar cost more than a Les Paul when it doesn't have any pickups at all? And don't get me talking about those Stradivarius thingies.

BBE bass preamp in Cash Converters for £30. Bloke thought it was something to do with disco equipment. "Can't get it to work, mate". I offered him £30 "for the parts". Picked up my 1972 J bass for £250 in a hock shop in the early 1980s, which was pretty cheap even then. Still my favourite.

Guess the householder was a bit of an Action man.

Coincidentally, there is a quite well-known eBay purveyor of basses whose instruments should prove ideal for this purpose 😉

A good old fashioned flight case takes some beating (literally). Heavy and awkward to carry and may well cost you more in carriage charges, but if you value your instrument, it has to be the way to go.

Dirty input jack on the amp or output jack on the instrument can cause odd noises. Try cleaning them with switch cleaner. Is the lead OK? Try wiggling it - especially near the plug at each end - whilst the note is sustaining and see if it results in any crackles and buzzes.

Bill. Could I pick your brains, please? Is there a straightforward way to work out how much wadding a cab needs, or is it a case of suck it and see? Is it best to allow for the wadding when calculating cab volumes? Thanks.

Looks good. Re break-in, I wouldn't hammer it for the first few hours. You could connect up the iPad or similar and play some stuff through it at moderate volumes for a while to loosen things up.