Dan Dare

Google? Trading will not realise the best value for your instruments. Best to sell them privately imho.

Didn't know that. If your BG400 will drive an additional C8, should sound ace.

Good advice, but DON'T give it the heat gun treatment with the grille attached to the cab or you'll cook the drive unit cone.

Bob. Please listen to what a number of us have said and get someone who knows what they are doing to talk/walk you through this in person. Richard's advice above is excellent, but - and I am not attempting to offend or insult you - it's obvious that you are a complete novice and that you cannot understand what he or any of us are saying (you state above that you find our advice confusing. The "whistling" sound you refer to is feedback, btw). It's pointless our attempting to explain things when you lack the knowledge to understand the terms we are using. The only way is to get someone who knows what they are doing to show you how and explain/answer your questions in person.

Welcome to the PJB club. In my experience, once you tried it, it's hard to like the tone of anything else. Re. your questions, the C8 cab is 4ohms. It obviously packs more of a punch than a C4, but check the BG400 can run an ext cab with that impedance. I've an idea it might be 8 minimum, which limits you to a C4. Two C4s (the BG is effectively a C4 with built in amp) is pretty pokey, within reason. Whether they will do the job for you depends how much of an animal your drummer is. I have 3 C4s, but my head will run into 2 ohms. PJB cabs are quite inefficient - they take some driving to give of their best - so even if your BG400 can run a 4ohm ext cab, you may need more power to drive a C8 properly. The PJB Piranha drivers have ceramic magnets, the Neos have neodymium and are lighter. I find the Piranhas have a bit more oomph, but are not quite as smooth/sweet as the Neos.

In the late 70s, I had a Bassman 135 and 2x15 (with Peavey replacement drivers). Fab rig, but large and weighty. Needed a Volvo estate to get it around.

Buying without trying is a recipe for disappointment. As Chris says, a lot of those are discontinued (I assume you've found them used via eBay, Craig's List or similar). For what you are playing, you probably need a more old school sound. Buying an older Trace when you're in the US might be tricky if you need repairs.; The GK is probably the safest choice - will do most things and you can get it repaired if need be.

No suggestions for the hand, apart from rest (as the doctor said to the chap who said "It hurts when I do X", don't do X). You shouldn't need to play aggressively to get that mwah sound. If you do, you need to lower the action (the mwah is actually caused by the string vibrating slightly against the board on a fretless). You will most likely need to do it at the nut, as well as or rather than at the bridge end. It's a bit of a fine judgement as to how much to file the nut and it's easy to overdo it, so take it to a good repair/setup man (or woman) if in doubt.

They are rather good, aren't they? As long as you leave the awful octaver alone, they do old skool wonderfully. Norman uses them, after all so they must be all right.

I'd be surprised if Victoria B can even spell irony...

I have sold many things via eBay and have insisted on cash on collection for some (usually musical items which are too large/fragile to post). Musical items also seem to attract scammers and chancers more than other things I sell (fishing tackle, for example), so cash is the safest bet. I have never had a problem. eBay can point to "terms and conditions" all it likes, but they don't trump the law of the land (which allows you to specify payment in the form of your choosing for anything you sell). Of course, I don't try to dodge paying sellers' fees when I sell for cash. I've no doubt eBay would be after me if I did (and quite rightly). When you sell for CoC, make sure you get the buyer to sign a receipt, so they cannot claim they never received the item.

The knob labelled "line", "mic", etc controls the amount of signal entering the speaker. If you are feeding it from a mixing desk or other high level source, you should set it to "line". The "0db" setting on the screen shows the amount of signal the speaker is receiving. I assume you are feeding it with a mixing desk. In that case, set the knob to "line" and control the overall volume with the main output faders on the desk (they determine the level of signal the desk is sending to the speaker). However, you need to know how to set up your mixing desk properly in order to get a good result. As several others suggest, you should really get someone who knows what they are doing to show you (either pay an engineer or buy a knowledgeable friend a drink to show you). It isn't rocket science, but this thread could last until eternity and you still won't be any the wiser...

It's worth the current price for the pickups and bridge.

You simply have to visit a dealer and try some yourself. I could list the usual suspects, but they would be my preferences, not yours. You need to find something that suits you. I have seen 1x10 Epi's, which would be an obvious choice, but they are rare. Any of the good makes (many of them use the same drivers, usually from Eminence) are worth a look.

No. Legally, it's your property and you have the right to specify how you wish to be paid for it. If you want payment in cows or chickens, you are entitled to insist on that should you wish.

I detect a note of irritation in your response. It ain't the cab, it's what you do with the volume control that will determine how much you annoy the neighbours. If you like the sound of your Epi' 310 (which I used to have, incidentally), I suggest you get a decent 1x10. PJB cabs (which are what I use now - I have 3 C4s and use as few/many as a job requires) are excellent if you like a clean tone. They take some driving - they're quite inefficient - and their clarity can fool you into not realising how loud you are running them. However, the point about bass frequencies travelling through structure will apply whatever cab you use. Putting a cab on thick foam to de-couple it from the floor may help.

Just signify acceptance of PayPal but make it clear in the listing that it's cash on collection only. If someone sends a PP payment, refund it and tell them to come with the readies..

Thanks for the heads up re the TC. I use the Korg clip-on, but it's not ideal - a bit erratic.

It isn't the overall volume that's the problem. It's the fact that bass frequencies travel through the structure of the building. That is very difficult to stop/prevent. Unless you want to p1ss off your neighbour, headphones will be the only answer if you don't want to practice quietly.

It's still better than nothing. Generally, once individual instrument/vocal sounds and balance between the members of the band have been set, you can adjust for changes in the room via overall eq. There are always exceptions, but it works most of the time.

A BG400 plus a C4 will definitely do the job as far as volume is concerned provided the rest of the band are not out and out hooligans (which, if you are a function band, they almost certainly aren't). As ez says, tonally, they are refined and clean. You may not be able to drive an additonal C8 with your BG400. I think PJB specify a minimum of 8 ohms for extension speakers (I could be wrong). I use between one and three C4s with an AG700 depending on the size of the job and love the quality of sound I get.

They probably weren't even trying to launder money. The scam is that they appear to have paid money onto your account, but the payment is not confirmed. It shows on your account, but funds have not actually been received. You then send the £9,400 off and a week later, the "payment" disappears from your account, leaving you out of pocket.

He's the John Shuttleworth of bass guitar.

Shouldn't it be roadkill?

Still for sale, oddly enough...