Dan Dare

Rather than modify the instrument, why not consider a pedal/external pre? You'll have to do some research/trying out - only you know the sound you're after. That way, you can use the Sandberg as it is when you don't want the more aggressive approach.

One man's "trolling" is another's fair comment. If you put something up for public sale, it is everyone's business. If it was advertised privately, you might have a point.

I agree that it should be no comments or all comments. No in between.

Rather than hack the TE about and risk the fact that replacing the speakers may not work, why not pick up a power amp to drive the BF? Older style (i.e. non class D) used PA power amps are cheap these days.

My local rehearsal room has SVT Pro heads plus 8X10s and although you can feel, as well as hear the bass, the tone is lacking, for me at any rate. Too indistinct, even if the weight is satisfying. My AG700 plus PJB cabs are much more pleasing to my ear. Guess I'm in the minority, too.

Fair point. Perhaps helpful and constructive. But "a good guy to do business with" (to quote chris_b's example) is not something I would call constructive. Too easy for someone's mates to post that sort of stuff. The one other thing I really object to is "bargain". Some on here are not that experienced/new to the game and could be influenced by that. I've seen used stuff advertised on here at almost new price and not everyone will necessarily be aware of that. If "bargain" or "good price" is acceptable, so should "too pricey" be.

Caveat emptor, I'm afraid. As Maude says, view the combined total as the price you will pay.

Why are only positive comments "good"? Surely all or none should be permitted.

I put a J Retro in my J bass and went back to passive after a few months. The East was impressive and made the instrument more versatile, but I just couldn't get that classic Jazz bass tone from it. It was close, but not quite there. This may be different, of course. You pays yer money and takes yer choice.

You'll just have to accept your fate, I'm afraid, which, like mine, is to be the one who knows how to do that stuff. I've tried, believe me, but I just cannot stand by and watch others mess up the PA when I know how it should be done and when I also know that, if I don't sort it, the sound will be rubbish.

You say you've come to it late and practice a lot. Have you been playing long? It takes a bit of time to develop good callouses. Also, you refer to your plucking finger singular. Are you only using the one? If so, I presume it's the index. Try alternating first and second fingers (I know Jamerson used only his index finger, but he was a one-off). You'll halve the amount of stress on the skin of each.

If you can find one, the Carvin class D heads have a valve pre that actually does something to the sound (as opposed to being there for marketing purposes). My spare amp is a B1000 and it's a nice head. Picked it up used for not much over £300.

The Ag' GS cabs are less bright and deeper/larger than the newer - SL or DB - ones, so reputed to have more bottom end. There's a guy selling a pair that look to be in good nick on eBay at the moment. In Basingstoke and collection only, so a bit of a trek from S Wales, but they look nice.

55 squids for a cap? Shouldn't that be Hysterical Parts?

This looks nice and clean - UK built - for you Trace lovers if any of you are near the South Coast - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trace-Elliot-1X15-Bass-Cab/382860497751?epid=908710623&hash=item5924439357:g:OEIAAOSwCrtcl8Dg

That's usually caused by the fact that a low powered amp will clip and send what is pretty well a square wave to the driver, which destroys it.

I run my J bass with the tone wide open, but I like a spot of roll-off on the P with flats for that JJ sound.

On the plus side, Midgets and associated Leyland cars were very basic and easy to fix with pliers and a hammer by the side of the road.

I find there's little difference between my expensive (Babicz and Gotoh) bridges and a BBOT, to be honest. I do like to change a standard BBOT for the nicer Gotoh version, because it has two extra screw mounting holes and is better finished, but I can't honestly claim it makes any difference. They just look nicer. Agree with itu that you must tighten them down properly, but be wary of torquing the heads off screws (which I managed to do in a ham-fisted moment).

Bill, is it best to run drivers in parallel or series, or doesn't it matter? Or is there no hard and fast rule?

You're both wrong. The Morris Marina was the best car ever made 😁. I know. I had three of them.

Seashell's right. People need to calm down. Scott D has a living to make. If you don't like what he's selling, walk on by.

Got a set of Grover clover leaf tuners on my Bitsa P. Decent and won't break the bank - around £65. Google "Grover bass tuners".-

Interesting novelty? Yes. Viable product? No. Given that there are plenty of proven, stable materials to make bass bodies out of that don't weigh excessively, what's the point? There will be no performance advantage. At best, it will only look different. Given that it isn't likely to be cheap, why would anyone pay the extra over a body made of wood, mdf, ply ,etc?

itu is right. Doubling the amount of air moved should flap the old bell bottoms nicely and will give you options. However, if you don't want to spend too much (another Aggie won't be cheap), a used 8 ohm 15" cab should do it. I ran 2x10 plus 1x15 for several years and it worked well.