Dan Dare

An increase of 3db is supposed to result in a doubling of volume. However, it takes a 10db increase for people to perceive volume as having doubled. Barely any amplifier on earth will double the power output it gives into 8 ohms if the load is reduced to 4 ohms, because the power supply in most will run out of steam.

Many happies Willie. The man who wrote my favourite song (Nightlife).

I appreciate that. I know active speakers do sound a little better in most cases. My PA speakers (Fohhn LX150s and XS22 subs) are sort of semi-active - the power amps are built into the subs and you feed the tops with normal Speakon cables. It sounds pretty good. Like a giant hi-fi. However, I've got no alternative option if something fails on a job, unless my monitors (which are passive) suffice.

I have an Ernie Ball. Works fine and the display is quite large and easy to read in poor light..

Looks good. I have a Dinky Toys decal on the headstock of my Bitsa. Always fun when people ask what make it is and then look closely at it. I tried to get a Hotpoint decal, but couldn't find one.

You carry on then. I prefer to err on the side of caution, especially if I'm driving an amplifier hard. As an example, take a look at the spec' sheets for Kappalite drivers (popular choice for bass cabs). I'm not singling out the Kappalite - all drivers behave similarly. The impedance varies quite dramatically according to frequency. At certain frequencies, what is supposed on paper to be a 2 ohm load can be a lot lower.

Good advice. Using passive speakers also removes the need to run mains power all over the stage. I'm running active FoH at the moment, but I'm aware that if anything fails, it could create a problem. My monitors are passive, so I could put some of them out front if the main system misbehaves, but it may not be adequate.

With a solid electric bass, it pretty well doesn't matter as long as you keep it dry.

Amplification is fine to buy used, but be wary of used speakers unless you can be pretty sure they haven't been abused. If buying as a band, I'd suggest that each person owns a particular item (or items) rather than just a percentage of the whole PA. That way, if someone leaves, they just take what is theirs with them and you don't get into arguments about buying them out, what their share is worth, etc. Or worse, selling the whole thing - you never recoup its value - so you can split the proceeds and then have to buy another rig.

It must be good. It's made from "proper Brazilian luthier wood", after all... Probably Warmoth parts. Given that you could get a complete used American P bass in good nick for a grand (or less), does he really believe people are that stupid? Time for a low ball offer to p!ss him off, I feel 😁

Bye

With a PA, the first thing you really need to do is to decide a budget and consider the use it will be put to. Will it be for vocals and maybe an acoustic instrument or two, or do you intend to run the whole band, including bass and drums through it? The usual suspects - see recommendations above - all offer systems at various price points. In the mid price range (rigs that will work for pubs, clubs and similar), the decent brands (Mackie, EV, RCF et al) are all pretty competitive in what they offer. You won't go far wrong with any of them. Don't judge solely by wattage or size, however. As is the case with bass rigs, a bigger number isn't necessarily best at a given price. Not long ago, the DJ at a wedding I played at turned up with a small Nexo system - one sub and two 10+horn tops. The quality and weight of sound was amazing from such a small rig, albeit one that probably cost £5-6k.

If it doesn't absolutely have to be through body, Gotoh make a nice BBOT type bridge that is nicer than the original and not expensive.

Not easy to touch up a sprayed finish without it showing, even with a solid colour (metallics are a nightmare). Ask any car body repair place. You can get there or thereabouts, but it will show close up and in certain light. Depends how fussy you are. If you want an invisible repair, a re-spray - of the top at any rate - is probably the only answer.

A cab may have a nominal 8 ohm impedance, but it will vary - above and below the 8 ohm point - across the frequencies. I would not connect more than three 8 ohm cabs to a 2 ohm head if I was running it at high volumes, just to be on the safe side. Used power amps are cheap these days if you don't mind carrying one. You can run one to power additional cabs.

Neo magnets are more expensive to make than ceramic ones, but not anything like twice as expensive. Much of the price difference is down to good old hype. Many claim that there is no difference in sound. Fwiw, I found a very slight difference when I compared two identical cabs - one with neo and the other with ceramic drivers. I use Phil Jones C4s. I compared a ceramic to a non ceramic C4 and found the neo version was a little sweeter/smoother sounding. The difference was very slight. I'm obviously assuming that the drivers (PJB make their own) were identical save for the magnet material. If they weren't, then all bets are off. I got the ceramics. Make of this what you will. I certainly wouldn't pay a hefty price premium, or even any premium at all, for neo.

I assume you're looking for the sound you hear on your records from the time. If so, the advice above is all good. One point worth bearing in mind is that it can be difficult to mimic the exact tones on records, which is produced via of a lot of studio-quality equipment. Reproducing that at live volumes without spending a fortune can be tricky. Have fun with the new bass.

Never used a capo on a bass. It's handy on a guitar as it enables you to use your preferred chord voicings/shapes in any key, or most at any rate. I use a Shubb for that. Don't know if they make one for bass, but if they do, it'll be worth a look.

Sadly, Royal Mail as we knew and loved it (well, sometimes) no longer exists. It's now the Post Office plc, has been asset stripped to within an inch of its life and is a shadow of what it used to be.

Fender made a high mass bridge (it isn't that beefy - a bit like a BBOT, but thicker metal and made of brass) that was suitable for through body stringing. I assume, as you want a BBOT replacement, that it is for a Fender. Have as look at the Custom Shop video on this page - https://www.bestbassgear.com/ebass/gear/hardware/bridge/you-tell-us-does-a-high-mass-bass-bridge-really-make-a-difference.html. I don't know whether it's still available. I bought one several years ago, not realising it was for through the body use and sold it on. They may still be available.

As long as it doesn't actually overhang the edges of the cab, the bass police should leave you alone 😊 Welcome to the PJB fan club.

Apparently, someone bought him a cheese grater and he said it was the most violent book he'd ever read.

Pathetic, isn't it? American imported (so called) "profanity filter". They have an attack of the vapours over there if you say "damn"...

True, but it offends my OCD...