jrixn1

Not sure you need an fdeck, since your Fishman has a high impedance input and a variable HPF. Is your Tonehammer the one with the effects loop? If so, plug the Fishman into the "return" which will bypass the Tonehammer's preamp (i.e. use the Tonehammer just as a power amp).

The One10 is (as you say) 8 ohms, so the Bass Terror should be on the 8-ohm switch. The Bass Terror's 500W figure is the potential maximum - but it can deliver the whole range of power from 0W to 500W depending on the volume level. Start with the volume low and you'll be fine. If the speaker starts to distort or otherwise sound wrong, turn down. (This is general advice for all amplification.)

Be sure to get flatwound strings - preferably La Bella Deep Talkin' Flats, and ideally the 0760M "1954" set.

This! Definitely address the underlying problem. Is it a P bass by any chance?

It's hard for me to be convinced so far that there is a signature "rosewood fingerboard" sound. Otherwise all the basses in this video would not sound different to each other.

Ah, I see... got you now. If it helps to know, on my older B1on I can set up 2 x Ac Bs Pre, 160 comp, and SVT. Adding a fifth effect gave "Process Overflow". I too am waiting for the B1 Four to become available.

You can use four effects simultaneously with the MS-60B. So in your case: "Bass Drive" (or other amp sim) Compressor HPF #1 HPF #2 Then create five duplicates of that patch for the different Bass Drive settings.

My basic hybrid bass became easier to play when I changed my D and G strings to Golden Slaps (synthetic gut). The E and A are still Spiros. N.B. it changes the tone too, which may or may not be what you're after - more "organic" but I wouldn't describe it as more "clarity".

Gives a bit more room with setting intonation. I've had (other) basses where I've had the saddle right up against the back of the bridge.

The other comparison I'd be really interested in would be the different RCF 12" speakers: 312 (£343) vs 712 (£430) vs HD12 (£581) vs 732 (£688) vs HD32 (£843). Anyone want to buy all five and let me know the answer?

My understanding is that the Headrush 112 is very similar to the Alto TS312. I've used neither, but there were some recent comments here which are favourable to the Alto: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/339937-frfr-advice-compact-monitors/?do=findComment&comment=3732820 https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/339937-frfr-advice-compact-monitors/?do=findComment&comment=3732846

Harley Benton good but Yamaha BB better - perhaps either the current BB234 or a second-hand BB414 or BB424?

Could get advice by posting on https://www.reddit.com/r/LegalAdviceUK/

I basically agree with you - but the counter-argument is that the driver is already making that trip at a cost to himself of (say) 45p per mile, regardless if he gives anyone or no one a lift. The additional cost of giving someone a lift is not that same 45p per mile. I'm in a 10-piece band, so people coming from all over the place, and all with differing pre-/post-gig schedules. Currently, the gig fee is fixed per musician, but then on top the band pay drivers 20p per mile + 5p per passenger per mile. There are still issues or grey areas; e.g. two drivers who could conceivably share a lift but then who both decide to drive themselves (thus costing the band more in expenses paid out).

For four-in, two-out, foot-switchable routing - perhaps a Boss ES-5 or MS-3? Also you could contact http://www.brightonion.co.uk/ for his best (custom-made) suggestion.

I sometimes find Google better at searching than the basschat search particularly if the indexing is down. Was it one of these: https://www.google.com/search?q=Warwick+Streamer+site:basschat.co.uk+marketplace&tbs=qdr:y ?

The mega-thread is here: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/205633-in-ear-monitors-help-needed/ although it's 72 pages now... The experts are there; I'm just a beginner. If I remember correctly Bas, you already have a digital desk? What my band do is provide the XLR cables and Behringer PM1s (about £20), and then asked the individual musicians (and deps) to provide their own earphones. However, the band do also own a couple of Shure SE215 as spares (about £75). Myself personally, I also started with the Shure SE215. I now have the KZ ZS10 (about £35) - as recommended on the above thread. You can of course get into it and spend £hundreds, if not more. I haven't got there yet myself. I found it takes a bit longer to soundcheck at first if not everyone is familiar with the system. But there's no gear to load in or out! The ability to set the volume relatively low and yet hear everything with complete clarity is night and day compared to using monitoring or backline.

In-ear monitors...

For that budget, should your starting point be more RCF 310s? £256 for a mkIII and £300 for a mkIV. RCF is a better product than Alto. You are already familiar with the RCF 310s. You now have instant back-up if there is a problem with your main PA.

If it's that, I've used superglue to address. Use the thin/watery type and it wicks into the gap.

I've seen this recommended to hold the head on a tilted stand, but not tried it myself: https://www.ikea.com/gb/en/products/smart-home/mobile-tablet-accessories/bräda-laptop-support-black-art-60150176/

I use an LS-2 (in "A -> B -> Bypass" mode) to cycle between bass #1, bass #2, and mute. Each bass channel has an LED and a level control. I'm not 100% sure you need the dummy jack... I don't have mine to hand to check right now, but could do at some point later in the week. Update: yes, you need the dummy jack. I use a pancake jack plug (with no cable attached).

Yes, I left my saddles how they came. I couldn't be bothered to experiment with all the different permutations! I assume it's a subtle difference - unless anyone here has experienced otherwise.

Ah yes, it's the "Vintage Plus Bridge" https://uk.yamaha.com/en/products/musical_instruments/guitars_basses/el_basses/bb_2017/700_series.html "Strings can also be set to the tail end of the bridge, which comes equipped with a convertible saddle that can be adjusted to 2 different angles for more precise tonal shaping and feel. The rounder side of the saddle gives a slightly softer sound, while the more angled area produces a slightly tighter one."