jrixn1

I always took "mic input" to mean any low voltage, low impedance signal, rather than literally only a microphone. The manual says, for MIC, "Use with directly connected microphones and sources with low-level output." (BTW I'm a layperson not an expert!)

So how loud was it when you turned it up to 20? Yes, I also think the instrument/Hi-Z setting is just for directly connecting passive instruments. The Fishman's output isn't high impedance. Try the QSC at mic level (input A). Start with the QSC gain in the middle, and the Fishman volume control on low. Adjust the Fishman volume to suit.

Headphones vs earphones vs IEM: it is just form factor. In terms of connectivity they are identical. Headphones are large and rest on the outside of your ears and have a headband to keep it on. You might look odd wearing headphones on stage. Earphones are smaller and go inside your ears. IEM are a type of earphones which are generally sealed (block out the ambient sound to some degree). If I understand you correctly, you can already hear the other instruments fine via bleed from their monitors - all you want is a bit more bass for yourself. If you want to work independently of the sound engineer, then yes your idea of routing the bass signal into both a headphone amp and a DI box will work. In this case, you don't want earphones which are too sealed, since you do want to continue to hear the ambient on-stage sound. But do talk to the sound engineers - depending on their setup, it might be no extra work or equipment for you to use IEM instead a wedge monitor. The only thing you might need is something like a Behringer PM1, which goes at your end and connects an XLR cable coming from the desk to your IEM.

I just realized on the top of each foot switch is an alternative mini switch which is slightly easier to operate by hand. Nice touch, Zoom 👍

Charlie Parker Omnibook, bass clef edition.

I would also guess the pass-through wouldn''t convert an unbalanced signal to balanced - so you'd probably want a DI box anyway.

I would say the pass-through will be just the same as plugging your bass directly into the desk. Whether that's any good for you depends on the desk. Manual says "Channel B pass-through output connector. The signal here is the same as the input signal on Channel B."

I don't have a B3n to compare - but nope, the effect does not exist.

This is a good systematic approach.

Are you happy with the sound from your 4x10? If so, that would be the best starting point as it's a known good sound - what make/model is it? And what amp did you use with it? If not, any difference or improvement if you use only the Markbass 1x15 combo, or only the 1x12 cab (what make/model is it)?

In addition to what Bas said, note that there is no HPF out of the box. It seems you need to use Guitar Lab connected to a Windows or Mac computer to add the "Low EQ" effect.

The Zoom UK distributor via eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Zoom-B1-Four-UK-Bass-Multi-Effects-Pedal/264303958550 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Zoom-B1x-Four-UK-Bass-Multi-Effects-Pedal/264303947967

My particular issue is that I'm on Ubuntu, and the Zoom software doesn't work for me with Wine (the Windows emulator).

Effects list: https://www.zoom-uk.com/sites/default/files/products/downloads/pdfs/E_B1FOUR_FX-list.pdf Looking at the effects list, it seems some effects (marked with blue star, eg "Low EQ") are only available as "Guitar Lab additional effects". I don't have a Windows or Mac computer - I guess I could borrow one from a friend - but can someone confirm that once the effects are added to the Zoom B1 Four via Guitar Lab that they are then available on the Zoom B1 Four permanently?

Could try powering it from a socket but via USB. That's what I do with my B1on.

My guess is that it's because there are five banks, which correspond to the five physical buttons marked '1', '2', '3', '4' and '5'. E.g. pressing '2' takes you to the patches which start with '2', namely 20-29. But if there were patches 0-9, you'd need a physical button marked '0'. The tuner's cool as it uses the green & red LEDs underneath the display.

B1 Four vs B1on.

Just playing about with mine. The button/dial layout and interface makes it really easy to use. I've had a B3 (but not B3n), and I still own a MS-60B (for live) and B1on (for home practising). This B1 Four will be getting used live.

I'd like to know this too. I've owned a 434 and it was great, really loved it; and I still own a 735A. I like the simplicity of a passive bass and have considered a 435 - but doesn't really make sense to trade in, as the value of my used 735A is about the same as a new 435. Also there are small things I like about the 735 - matt headstock, fingerboard inlays - and a proper bridge. Also I much prefer a blend or switch to two volume controls - although I could always rewire I guess. I'm probably too stingy to move up to the P35 (although if that £900 one Bas got had been sunburst...).

How do you transport it - I wondered if it would "get lost" in a normal-depth gig bag, or does it work ok?

You can do this with Zoom by plugging a cable from your computer/phone into the Zoom's aux in.

Thanks for this info - I've just ordered one too

Where did you order it from?

Yes, a couple of times, hopefully isolated; the common factors seemed to be when it's been cold, playing for an extended period, dehydrated, or low potassium level (eat bananas). Also, get fingerless thermal gloves.