jrixn1

Well, he said he's got a Helix so it makes sense that everything after that is as neutral (flat) as possible.

Are you looking for a powered speaker, or passive? If latter, Fearless go up to a 2x15.

Out of interest, what strings do you use?

Are the speakers out of phase? How does it sound with just one of them connected?

Sorry to hear about the Warwicks. As for 5% - it was rounded up, but based on ParcelForce's website: "£1.80 including VAT for the first extra £100 cover and £4.50 including VAT for every subsequent £100". So that's £15.30 to cover a £350 cab. Perhaps other couriers are cheaper.

You're right -- it's a sliding scale depending on each person's financial situation. If suddenly losing £4,000 will bankrupt you (or at least seriously mess things up for a few months) then yes get insurance. The service the insurer provides is to smooth out random financial peaks and troughs which one might not want to absorb oneself. It's a valid service to pay for -- I suppose all I really meant was that sometimes it's worth considering not insuring something.

My opinion is never pay for insurance (this applies in general, not just to speaker cabs or musical instruments). The reason is that, mathematically, it doesn't make any sense. Suppose it costs 5% of an item's value to insure it. I'm sure you will make a claim less than 5% of the time; the insurers know the true claim rate, and of course they price their insurance higher than the true odds. The difference between the percentage cost and the percentage claim rate is how they make their money. Therefore on average, you save money by not buying insurance. You also save time in not having to mess about with the insurance company should the item go lost. Just refund the buyer and walk away from it all, knowing that you are still up financially, on average. The only time you should buy insurance is if losing the value of the item will bankrupt you.

Upgrade the monitors? I hope the others are paying for this new bass rig btw 😁 I mean... you're not going to benefit from it at all (as you're already sorted with your in-ears)!

I don't really know about amplifying cajons. I've not heard of the "Malone" brand but it seems really cheap (...too cheap). The level of your other equipment is higher quality - MIJ Mustang, GK, TecAmp, Eden; I'm not sure you'd be happy with this "Malone" budget offering. Something like the RCF 310 mk3 costs a lot more, but I currently use RCF and found them to have great sound, volume, and build quality.

I don't see the need for a head & cab setup in this situation. Since you're fine for FOH, the only problem is monitoring. Why not just put more bass through the monitors (for the band members not yet on in-ears)?

How loud do you need to go? What type of venues are you playing? Is there a PA system? What does the other person in the duo play, and how are they amplified?

A powered PA speaker. It could double for cajon and bass too, if you return to that plan.

Was it this one? https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/238458-herts-bash-2-the-precision-test/?do=findComment&comment=2494670 The maple vs rosewood answers look pretty random to me.

Just literally two days ago I was thinking I need to do this. Thanks for the reminder!

If you mean noise, then yes I also found it a problem in conjunction with other pedals, and in the end I needed an isolated power supply. You're right about the bypass situation - this pedal won't be the correct solution for everyone.

I also liked the Xotic BB Bass emulation on my Zoom. I used it for a while in my live setup. Have you seen this comparison video? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CbENF9j10iA

I've used http://www.jacksinstrumentservices.com/custom-scratchplate-cutting.html

The manual is here: https://www.acousticimg.com/#/support/manuals It gives the definitive answer. (Spoiler: it's ok to operate without a speaker load.)

The word "minor" has two meanings. 1. For intervals: Some intervals (second, third, sixth, and seventh) have a choice of two notes. The lower choice is called "minor" and the higher choice is called "major". 2. For scales: a "minor scale" is referring specifically to the quality of the third. So if the scale contains a minor third, it's a minor scale. If the scale contains a major third, it's a major scale. All regardless of all the other notes in that scale. So, with your example of a natual minor scale: The notes of C natural minor are: C D Eb F G Ab Bb C The intervals are: D : major second Eb: minor third F: perfect fourth G: perfect fifth Ab: minor sixth Bb: minor seventh

A few years old, but the story of the $23.6M Amazon book.

I believe the last number of Trace Elliot cab models indicates the impedance. So a "1048" and "1044" are both 4x10, but the first is 8 ohms and the second is 4 ohms. If your 4x10 is 4 ohms, and the internal speaker is 8 ohms, then the total load would be 2.7 ohms which might be too low for the amp.

Yes, exactly this; i.e. since your Bass Driver pedal is providing all amp and speaker emulation, that you should avoid all further colouration downstream in the signal chain. Taking this to the logical conclusion, you end up with a powered PA speaker (which is nominally perfectly flat), instead of a traditional bass combo or head/cab setup. Check out this thread: https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/315455-interesting-frfr-story/

A one-box solution would be anything which has: instrument input DI output with "pre" option (to send bass to PA) line in (to take monitor feed from PA, containing no bass) headphones out volume & EQ controls I believe the Palmer Pocket Bass is one that tick all those boxes. I have not tried it myself but I did some investigating a while back, as I was in a similar situation regarding tweakage of in-ears.