The Burpster

Thomann do Barts too... [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/bartolini.html?sid=89a0d6c46881df53d9cc1ff56aefcf51"]http://www.thomann.de/gb/bartolini.html?si...9cc1ff56aefcf51[/url]

Warwck bits as above or a prewired set up from Bartolini might float your boat.... I have one on order for my latest project.

You can occasionally pick up a Roland Cube 100 for (2ndhand) £200 that will tick most of your boxes.... But I'd go with the above as well if you dont mind lugging cab and head.

The guys above are right.... Neck relief is part of the set up regime, not a way to lower or raise the action..... Neck relief should be set for the set and gauge of string you are using. Its measured by fretting the string at fret 1 & 13 and measuring the gap between the bottom of teh string and top of the fret at the 6th fret. this should remain the same for your style of play...... It should have very little to do with the height of the strings at the frets above the 12th. This is set by using the saddles and then if necassary a shim to lower the neck. If you want to learn a lot more about set ups and how all the set up segments realte to each other I suggest this book...... [url="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Guitar-Player-Repair-Guide-Electrics/dp/0879302917/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1226244699&sr=8-3"]http://www.amazon.co.uk/Guitar-Player-Repa...4699&sr=8-3[/url] If you read it and use its advice you will save its value first time you do a set up as you'll have saved the cost of getting it done professionally.

Nice MIMs are out there... well done sounds a good 'un.....

Kinda yes and kinda no.... Shimming has nothing to do with the T-rod relationship. The T-rod sets neck relief not string height..... sometimes some basses need shiming to get the correct angle of the strings inrelation to the neck. Yes that can be so on a new bass if it isnt set up to your personal spec from the factory. Does that help?

[quote name='thebeat' post='325041' date='Nov 8 2008, 10:52 PM']Earlier Highway 1's, such as mine, did not have the Bad Ass bridge or greasebucket tone control...the upgrade version has only been available for around 3 years.[/quote] You are quite correct of course, I forgot to add its been around a while and is now in its upgrade version.!

I think we all covered it nicely in this thread..... Read and enjoy....... [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=18034&hl=shim&st=20"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=...=shim&st=20[/url]

Halfords boy advice = BS.... They tell you shouldnt use it because you SHOULD spray acrylic in a spray booth with ventilation and mask up. Its got nothing to do with the paint or quailty. If you seal and prime the wood properly you can use what paint you like...... Acrylic paints and lacquer has been pretty much an industry standard for all geetars. One acrylic paint is pretty much the same as any other. Just tell the sales boy that your painting your Corsa to hang with the by racers and I'll bet he'll sel it you by the bucket load.....

[quote name='thebeat' post='324904' date='Nov 8 2008, 06:09 PM']Standard are made in Mexico, Highway 1 are made in the USA.[/quote] Thats a starting point. H1 is essentially a US model but with a thin coat of cellulose paint for (alledgedly) better tone because its thinner, a BA2 bridge, and comes in very limited color ways, and gigbag rather than all teh case candy and HSC of a full US model you cant get Maple fretboard options either. I've yet to see a bad or shonky H1. The same cant be said for MIM. You Could get an absolute doosey (as the neck and body are cut out in teh US plant but from lesser cuts of wood) you could also get a very average instrument as well that frankly a decent Yamaha or Ibanez would kick its ass.

[quote name='Dr.Dave' post='324409' date='Nov 7 2008, 07:03 PM']For 300 spots you'll get a good Jap P off the bay , and from the classifieds here. Guaranteed the one you want comes up here the day after you get one somewhere else!![/quote] Good shout actually, you'll get a lot more choice of you go for MIJ.

Yes they can be and ceratinly 2ndhand for £300 you can get a 2ndhnad H1. You'd get your money back whenever you moved it on too. Here or ebay, or trawl adds in comics to find 'em they are out there..... put an ad in the wanted section.....

I'd be happy to pay now for the pleasure...... It might benefit from more commercial input but then would you need a commercial manager....? getting a stand next to a bass supplier at one of the BIG geetar shows would spread teh word quick....

[color="#00FFFF"]Bit of advice required here. I've always played Ric's, but am possibly after a Precision just for practice, the odd rehearsal and maybe the odd gig as well to mix 'n' match. I've a minimal knowledge of these basses - budget-wise, I'm not into spending huge amounts (save that for my Rics!), so as cheap as poss, within reason as it's got to be good enough! I'm just after one that offers good playing, and that big sound (re my other Steve Hanley Fall-related post). Also, where is a good place to buy? My internet searches yield very little. It must be easier to find one! I noticed on the poll that there is loads of Fender owners on here, so it must be the best and most informed place to ask. Please help![/color] A good bench mark is a Highway 1, try one and go from there. US ones can be pant wettingly stunning or shonky. Squires are P like but generally* need electric upgrades to get the best from them. MIJ Ps are like jap cars, bl**dy great and cheap but whilst they have the badge they just arent quite the same somehow (although you wont get a shonky one for sure). MIM can be be like playing the lottery scratchcards...... * You are just as likely to get great Squire as a MIM Fender, they are out there, but the default position is as above.

Looks how a H1 should look, used, enjoyed and ready to be used and enjoyed again.

If I take a neck off (for any length of time) I make a small but easily seen mark with a fine indelible pen on the T-rod nut (or bolt), count the turns and loosen it off so that the neck is straight. Its makes setting the relief easier when it goes back together..... make sure you know what kind of T-rod it is, single or double action it effects teh number of turns. Good luck. Just read you post again and as its a cheepy it'll undoubtedly be a single action, makes life easier !

Off to techie for you son....

[quote name='kennyrodg' post='322471' date='Nov 5 2008, 09:28 AM']Cheers guys. I did a google on it but i wanted to be sure.(before BF jumps down my throat) [/quote] Thats Wiki.... dumbass, not Google...... Thought I'd better do it in his abscence.....