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I've got a Sire Z3 for plunking on when the mood takes me and it's sounds more like a vintage two band Stingray than my Stingray Special does. The older vintage basses have the treble EQ shelved higher, so it's got that top end slice. They've got a more scooped-out tone than the newer iterations. Around the time Ernie Ball took over production of MusicMan I had a vintage Stingray, and a very nice example it was too. However, for my taste those new EBMM basses I was trying in the shops were superior in every way to my pre-EB Stingray. I would have cheerfully done a straight swap. The Specials have got enough of that vintage sound though, and you can easily EQ it in. The Special is a bit richer in the mids and a more focused tone overall. It's all in my mind, I know, but the Stingray Special being lighter makes it seem even more punchy when I play it). The subtle changes in design have really improved comfort overall. I really like them ( At the moment I'm actively looking to buy a second one to put flats on). If other folks prefer the older basses then good for them, though. As the saying goes, you pay your money and take your choice.

The challenge was lining up accurately enough for the original side dot holes to line up. That said, at least it would then be in exactly the right position! Held together, this was would be I was aiming for if at all possible: Dry, I used some spool clamps to hold the side to side position. I then drilled a couple of micro holes in the nut slot through to the neck and tapped in a couple of thin panel pins. Same at the back - I lifted a fret and put a couple in there too. At the back of the neck, I stuck a strip of hardwood along the neck spine temporarily with two-sided tape to use as a clamping caul: I pulled the fretboard off to apply the glue, then could use the projecting panel pins to relocate and prevent the board floating around under clamping. I used a series of radius blocks before putting around a dozen clamps to squeeze all of the glue out and get a closed joint on both sides all the way up the neck. Here is the first clamp - 11 more to go: And here it was glued, waiting for some replacement side dots (which come as a thin cylindrical stick) to be fitted: And re-oiled ready to return to @Owen

Hi Bass Chat I recently aquired an Overwater Original Bass - I am now after a Hard Case for it as it came with a gig-bag - Does anyone know of any "off the shelf" cases tht would fit Cheeer Jay

As far as I know, there has always been a fretted and fretless version, medium 32" scale, in natural or black. Mine was bought new and it came with a very basic gig bag but it fits perfectly. I will make a note of that Ritter gig bag. 😎

Devil In Disguise - Cliff Richard

I don't know about £1500 minimum, over the last few months I've seen quite a few 2000s era Rays go for £1200-1400 from the likes of Andy Baxter, Bass Bros and Bass Direct in decent condition, so private sales could be below that. EXs more like £1000-1200. The specials and classics are around £1700-2000. The late '80s and early '90s ones seem to be acquiring a 'golden age' status in some quarters (although in reality I don't think the 2000s ones are inferior in any way, apart from maybe the neck finish and lack of mutes) and are also edging towards £2000.

Dragula - Rob Zombie

Bela Lugosi's Dead — Bauhaus

Everything is easy for Andy. The rest of us, not so much.

Frankly this is the case with so many of the BTB basses. Nearly 140 different BTB models across the BTB range yet they're really not that common (with the exception of the older 40 series and the much newer 74 series). If your after a particular model importing it from somewhere like Japan or the USA has to be a serious option. And with that comes the long delay, higher risk of damage, not to mention import duty 😕😳 Never felt happy going down that route personally !

I really like his red one. Which has given me a great idea for my next 'tribute' build...

Yes, the sample issue will be sent out to everyone who subscribes to the magazine.

You may have been able to buy a used Stingray 15 yrs ago for £750 - the operative phrase being 15 yrs ago! These days I’d say £1500 for a standard one (not a Special, Classic or anything else unusual), with price increasing dependent on model. The Specials appear to be around £2000 used but that can vary upwards dependent on pick up spec, colour etc etc, much along the lines suggested by @hiram.k.hackenbacker Talking of whom, I bought a particularly special Stingray he once owned last year, courtesy of @MM Stingray 62 (thanks both of you). It’s basically a factory spec 3 band Stingray, with strings through body, a Status made graphite neck - called a NAMM 100 bass (basically a Cutlass with strings through and a 3 band preamp). Now this bass (which cost nearly twice what I’ve just been talking) normally sits locked away but I got it out for a couple of recording sessions - blues/funk type of thing - and it sounds fantastic - absolutely thunderous Stingray sound! I also used my 4HH Stingray Special and whilst sounding slightly different (actually slightly darker), that sounded great as well. I couldn’t have asked for better recorded bass sounds (I got three tracks - a DI, one speaker on the upper of an ‘isolated’ Mark Bass 2 x 10 Traveller and one on the lower one). I also did some recording work with my Stingray Classic (I bought it when they were first announced in 2010) - that bass I’d fitted with TI flats - once again a great Stingray sound but slightly different (down to the flats more than anything). I used that bass for a ska gig very recently and from some ambient vids taken, the bass sound is great. A nice balance between supportive bassy sound and poky mids, which allow the notes to be heard. In none of this was there any issue with ‘weak G string’ syndrome - in fact my experience is it doesn’t occur in recording work - and if it does live, it’s usually down to stage EQ, other band members (eg keyboard players/ guitarists) playing in the wrong register too often, and room dynamics. However my experience has shown this to be a stage sound issue - generally not an issue in FOH. I have rarely encountered it with any of my Stingrays - the worst experience I had with D and G string absence was on a Fender Jazz but this was compounded by the factors mentioned above! So £1500 is a reasonable used value in my view, £2k for a Stingray Special and more for some of the more esoteric versions. And don’t forget the early 2000s US built Subs - these are 2 band EQ and appear to command various prices up to £750 last time I looked - again dependent on colour etc etc.

I might have to post some more photos. I had to line up the two halves of the side dot drill holes which were positioned on the join as well as everything else...

“Yo” as a replacement for “Hello or Hi in work emails. PFO.

I've got one. It's a bit different. Its neck profile is not exactly what I am used to on US 'Rays, but it is not to its disadvantage. Allegedly, its body is made of alder (we know it doesn't make any difference, do we not?). The hardware as well as electronics are supposed to be exactly the same as on US Stingrays. I personally would say you'd do nothing wrong buying an EX one.

Nice looking bass. Many thanks for sharing your thoughts with me and for posting the photos. Much appreciated 🤗

A complex and protracted transaction saw me buy Mike's gorgeous Wilcock Mullarkey bass. He was very patient while he waited for me to sell some bass gear to pay for it. Cheers Mike!