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Or stand on a bassboard and really feel it!

That sounds like a deep, metallic flanger to me. Also sounds like it's just sweeping, not hearing any envelope triggering personally. Could be the MXR rack or pedal flanger, or an EHX Deluxe Electric Mistress, or even an A/DA flanger? I know they're all capable of producing that deep, metallic sound.

Is that bass at the start of Cannonball a mistake, really?

Hopefully this makes it clear enough (you'd never guess I worked as a draughtsman for 18 months!) Matt

To be fair, my loud, at 73 is not stupid loud and the trouser flap is caused by the velocity of air leaving the port on an LFSys Monaco. The port is at knee height and standing in front of it you really can’t feel it, of course, with a long slot port like on a Barefaced, you would not get that concentrated draught of air.

Thinking about it... my comparison would have between an official version while the YouTube one could gave been a user upload even one sourced from vinyl, tape and ripped using unknown settings.

This is all very interesting stuff. I honestly thought the notch was a commonly known thing, but having Googled it… apparently not(ch).

When listening to comparisons on YouTube etc, I use a decent set of headphones. It shows up most things, even via Bluetooth (my cans are Bluetooth or Wired). However I do agree that phones or laptop speakers are no use for comparisons.

I've been watching this and am impressed by your skills and craftsmanship, I'm no luthier but as a mechanical engineer i thought I'd offer some ideas as an alternative to the spike nuts. I've used the spike nuts before and have never been impressed with how they hold into the wood when the bolt is removed (or the quality of the metal but that might just be the cheap ones I've encountered.) for this situation the standard engineering solution where i work (engineering R+D department) would be a nut plate, for this particular case a small plate of steel with 2x M8 tapped holes would be used, 10mm thick by about 20 wide would be plenty, and to hold it in place a third smaller tapped hole (M5 is probably enough) could be added to hold it in place when the neck is removed (a recessed bolt in the neck pocket of the body) for materials I'd go with mild steel and grade 8,8 bolts, a coat of paint on the steel would be enough to keep corrosion at bay, I'd avoid Stainless steel as it is prone to galling and difficult to drill and tap compared with mild steel. i will try and make a sketch to show the arrangement Matt

This is clearly different from the 'repro' tuners. The notch is square. I'd hypothesise that originally a length of strip was cut into tapered blanks in a guillotine. These would then be die-cut at each end to round them off. If the blank was originally cut slightly wide then the thin end would be cut like this. The wider end would not be noticeably affected due to the different shape. Indeed the double 'flare' seems deliberately chosen to allow for some variation. As the blanks would be cut in batches, it seems reasonable that, if the guillotine was also used for other jobs, or had to be reset after sharpening, the effect would change between batches. As all tuners would be considered the same, one would expect batches to get mixed up... You could write a PhD thesis about this...

Unlike punctuation. ...

Curve ball! Notched both sides, which makes sense, particularly if they are cut in two or three operations. It's also the AVII 1960 P: And the Flea Jazz:

Having a muse on getting another ABG. Would prefer a 5er but my recollection of a previous 4er was that due to the relative position of bridge to lower bout, the neck effectively gets pushed out a couple of inches... When not looking at fretboard kept finding self playing 2 frets higher than normal when sat down. Did have a short scale ABG even longer ago that I don't recall having this issue. Any similar experiences? Does such a thing exist as a short scale 5 string ABG?

I'm aware of the limitations of speakers/Youtube compression etc. Perhaps they need to re-record the demo (which was my first thought). Through my headphones (which obviously isn't as good as being in the room) there appears to be way less mids from the BF cab. A deep bass and 'pingy' top end but it also sounds like its size. My personal preference, to be clear, of a much more low mid punch and a nice clarity and sparkle in the highs (you can at least take this away if you want). Sometimes I like it to be middy and aggressive. I am not a fan of super deep bass; I'd let the PA do that if needed.

Nice. I still have a very early Kingston 5 string which I took the fugly pickguard off 5 minutes after getting it home from the shop. Ive always drooled over a 535, which I know I'll never buy as I'll never be good enough to deserve it. I have seriously contemplated the AG model though and may well take the plunge one day.

A die punch uses two matched dies, the upper one is the shape of the object wanted, and is forced through a matching hole. There is a small clearance around the die. If it was the upper die that is forced through a hole in the lower die that was chipped, the extra clearance would mean that it would punch out a slightly smaller shape.

For perfectly clean, and having a good compressor and effects loop, the Fishman is great. But if I had to choose one between the Fishman and the SH1, I’d go with the SH1 as it works great for both electric and upright.

Oh, yes. Oh, yes, yes, yes.

Buy a desk fan FFS.

Perfect, thank you. The Fishman is high on my list for my EUB and for a moment, I thought you were saying the SH1 was even better. I'm currently toying over the idea of either a Sansamp Para Driver or Fishman Platinum Pro to cover both my fretless electric and Ibanez EUB.

Well, that all depends on whether we hang on for the three points, or not.