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Small world. I left Cornwall in 1956 and moved back 5 years ago. Now live in Mylor Bridge.

I tend to rotate my basses so whether playing at home, recording or gigging, each one gets treated the same. I can't justify having nice kit if it isn't getting used. An unused bass is a holiday that I can't go on because the money is tied up in an unused instrument.

Anyone going? I'll be there for a child free weekend!

@nuno1959, seems like you didn't read my answer... I've been an official accredited repairer, long ago, urm, very long ago, and always received the schematics asked, but it was my day job back then (and I can't say I've become rich thanks to it, but that's another story). The other way round is to follow the circuit and use what we've always used, an oscilloscope and a signal generator or even faster, simply knowledge as I've fixed 99% of default amps without any schematic.

Agreed re your Stingray, EJWW. The lack of a centre detent on the controls means you can never get the same sound twice. I had the same problem with a piezo Stingray, and even moreso with an ACG Recurve with a parametric eq. It was utterly baffling and I could never get the same sound twice. Also, different preamp makers choose different frequencies. If you know Status basses well, you know that the frequencies are very well chosen, as you can run the treble and bass full on and it brings the instrument to life with no harshness or boominess. Fenders tend to be a little harsher, so I go more carefully and just boost a little. I did have one of the Mayones Jabba Jazzes and it was quite a nice setup as standard. Again, you needed to be quite measured with how much boost you added. A lot also depends on what kind of music you're playing. In the live shows I do, I often need a lot of subtlety and control for certain numbers, so I can palm mute with no booms and play gently and with great tactility at times, so a passive bass is ideal.

Pick U Up - Adam Lambert

One option might be to increase the height under the board by putting some bigger feet on it: like this maybe https://www.diy.com/departments/diall-black-thermoplastic-vulcanizates-tpv-leg-tip-dia-32mm-pack-of-2/1725483_BQ.prd

Why does that matter? 😉

This is indeed a thing ... The rule is roughly, higher impedance = more battery charge consumed for the same duration of listening with the same loudness ... there are lots of other factors too so the math's not totally accurate Before you return it , try a different set of headphones, while they may not sound anywhere near as "good", I'm using a pair of cheap gaming headset with mine as it has good bass response for all the explosions, I assume But I had that phone knocking around as it's the headset for work team's calls. I've played for multiple sessions on one charge; this is an original mighty plug rather than a pro, It sounds like you have a choice to make... quality of sound for session duration ... or like perhaps duct tape a cheap USB powerbank to it I'm assuming like mine it works while plugged in too.

multipost " sorry " please delete

This is what motivates my preference to using passive, and my comfort in using my P bass as well. Once everything is turned up I feel like all the knobs just 'make' me fiddle with them! The Stingray I previously used really confused me as well, with no centre detents available on the eq knobs I genuinely didn't know where 'normal' was. I guess I'm just trying to avoid being a bass-luddite and want to get the best out of my gear but I suspect I'll probably be keeping the passive mode selected in the long run.

Nice to hear Foulds is still going. It's been 10 years plus since I was last in Derby. Is sound control/rattle n drum still going? Edit: Just read the thread. Yep glad to hear they're both still going.

I’ve got one next week.....brushed up on the setlist and made cheat sheets just in case. Nerves kick in a bit, but I’m mostly looking forward to playing.

To have a precise reading, yes, otherwise, it will show it's maximum reading voltage, which is 10.23 Volts. "The highest voltage the Batt-O-Meter can test is 10.23 volts. If you have a device/ instrument that runs on two 9 volt batteries, the Batt-O-Meter will display the highest voltage it can recognize (10.23 volts), although the voltage may be higher."

It's different isn't it. I'd never seen a Honeyburst Jazz before, so commissioned it from Northwest Guitars a few months ago. They've still a few in stock if you're after one yourself :-)

Hi All, can anyone recommend a pedalboard that would accomodate this Palmer power supply under it? I want to keep the board as small as possible, so really don't want to give up "real esate" to the power supply. Intending to put together my first pedalboard (after roughly 40 years of playing) I bought the Palmer after a colleague recommended it. The unit is great, but relatively "thick" (45mm) so it won't fit under a significant number of boards. The spec for boards that I read, is often not specific about what clearance there is under the board, or if they are, only at the highest point. Given that the space under a board is often wedge-shaped, it remains a bit unclear. Thanks for any recommendations.

I run both passive and active basses, and I have to say, even after thirty-five years of playing active basses, setting up passive basses has taught me how to eq my sound into an amplifier a lot more. So that's where I start - I set 'my' sound on the amplifier, then adjust the gain between passive and active instruments. On an active bass like my Elite Jazz, I'll only add a smidge of boost above centre on the treble and bass on the preamp, leaving the mids centered. You really only need to play with preamp mids if the mids are missing from your sound. If you've ever played on a Sire bass, the sound is almost too 'scooped', so the cure is to boost the mids just a touch and do the opposite with the mids frequency. Very small adjustments can make a significant difference to your sound. Remember, adding mids can make it easier for you to hear yourself, but the more mids you add, the harsher it sounds to the audience. And as Jolltax mentioned, it's all academic anyway, because once you've added two singers, two acoustic guitars, a digital piano, an electric guitar and drums, your sound is buried anyway, so it really doesn't matter! Also, ask even the most experienced pro performer in your band/show about your sound who's not a bass player and you'll always get the answer, "it sounds like a bass."

What a desperately sad story.

The Batt o meter only reads 9 volt batteries in your bass. If you have 18 volt series batteries you have to take them out the bass to test them.

Wow, very handsome body. Where did you get it from, may I ask?