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Pictures Of Lily - The Who

Common Exposure — Nils Frahm

I have to keep my nails short or they just break anyway.

Just like speakers there is no right answer when it comes to evaluating headphones. However for critical listening when mixing speakers and headphones that make everything sound good tend to be of less objective use.

The first photo is of a Born 2 Rock F4B bass guitar. The second photo is a Gus G3 4-string fretless bass. I no longer own either bass but I still have my two Gus G3 5-string fretted basses which are my main basses when I'm not playing Bass VIs.

IMO Nottingham has an undeserved less than good reputation. However looking back at the the second photo I should have spent I bit more time Photoshopping out all the fag ends on the ground.

I'd say much of your problem is here. Mids is the last thing kicks need. A difficult room plus people that don't know what they're doing. Good musicians/sound techs know how to create space in the mix. A kilowatt of bass amplification is more than plenty for any stage but can't win from incompetence. You say most of your pedals were running hot, that would mud up the sound even more. Roll off some low bass to make room for the kick and go light on the distortion, a little crunch goes a long way.

yeah at the end of my video lesson he says JJ played a knackered old P bass, high action and one finger and so all his tips were bollox lol

Flash - Queen

Only in America... I do hope no one is so utterly stupid to fall for this. $50,000 would buy you nearly two new Alembics! I bet the neck dive is terrible, too.

I quite agree 👍

@Silky999 You're becoming the single piece body artiste, my friend! That is seriously lovely...

Love the black fretless bass (photographed lying on a public seat/bench ?). Can you tell me what make/model it is please. I don't recognise it. Looks a very cool instrument 😍

Ah yes, the Dave Swift owned one. Very nice basses, they were. I had the Jazz version with the FSR hand oil stained finish. They were based on the American Standard 2012, but had the 2008 pickups, which were better sounding. I shouldn't have sold mine earlier this year. It had a hugely focused modern punch, quite unlike most other Jazzes.

Hello old friend. 🙂 Not been on here for a while and what do I see. . . . . a brace of Peavey. 👍 Hope all is good with you. Never seen/knew you had the No Pickguard one!! Would love to hear the story and see some more detailed pics, either on here or PM me. Look forward to hearing back from you. Cheers. 😁

Thanks for that. I have a couple of needle files kickin about. I'll give that a whirl when i get around to picking up the spare higher string.

To me, this was a good starting point https://support.fender.com/en-us/knowledgebase/article/KA-01903

Hi , is that a GUS Bass?

Toot

I've wondered about doing this for a few months and never had the time to think this through. Background As part of the Basschat 8" speaker thread, I needed to attach a speaker grill to some risers. I wanted the speaker grill to be easily detachable without using any tools, such as an Allen key or a screw driver. I did look at quick release fasteners but they didn't quite work for me, so I thought I'd make some gnurled knobs using M3 bolts. I've made loads of these type of knobs before and have always followed the same pattern, design the knob, then insert a bolt after printing and use a little plug to fix the bolt in. Here's an example, the bolt goes through the hole and I simply glue a plug on top. Dead easy BUT it requires glue and a plug. So I wondered if I could design a knob that has the bolt put in as part of the printing process and not afterwards and therefore no plug is needed? This technique might be useful to somebody else so I thought I'd document it so somebody else can benefit from it. This is a little advanced in the number of steps and it might well be partly Prusa specific and Octoprint specific. Solution And this is it. This is a cut away of the knob and you can see where the head of the M3 bolt would sit. It looks like there is already the screw element of the bolt already in place, this is the long column underneath the knob head and this is actually never printed, thought it is exported to the slicer. The column is there to position the knob head correctly in the vertical axis in the printer slicer, in my case Prusaslicer. There is actually two different bodies in Fusion 360. The long column is 3.25mm in diameter and the hole in the knob head is 3.25mm as well. In this case it's a little under 16mm long as I will use an M3 16mm Hex headed bolt. Technically the knob head has zero overlap with the sacrificial column, this is important. Both bodies are experted to Prusaslicer as a single component. In Prusaslicer they are then converted to Parts, not Objects in the right hand mode pane. If you convert them to Objects, the head loses it's vertical position. The bottom of the knob head is painted for manual supports, that's the blue bit below. I used a Smart fill and as the knob head base is flat, that works well. Select the sacrificial column and in the Mode Window add in "Infill" and "Layers and Perimeters", using the right mouse click. This creates these options JUST for the sacrificial column. This presents these two options at the bottom of the Mode window as well Change the settings to 0 for everything in these two windows. This tells Prusaslicer not to print anything for this specific part, the sacrificial column. The column is still there holding the knob up, but doesn't exist for printing purposes. Change the support options to "Generate support material" and turn off "Auto generated supports". This is really important. Press the "Slice now" button and you get this. However your job isn't done yet. Using the layer inspector, slide down the layers until you are one layer below where the head of the bolt would be This is one layer higher and you can see the blue indicating an "Overhang perimeter" in Prusaslicer. If you can see the blue, you need to go one layer lower. Right click on the Layer Inspector and select "Add Custom G-Code" You need to add in specific G-Code here to tell the printer to pause. I use Octoprint and a pair of Prusa Mk4's (not the MK4S). The below works for me, but if you have a Bambu or an Creality this might not work, The gist of the code above is: a) Move the printer head to X=10 and Y=200, basically away from the part you are printing. Thats the G1 element. b) Make three 1.5sec beeps - Thats the M300's c) Disable the stepper motor timeouts - This is needed for Prusa's but I'm not 100% certain as to why I used this command as I wrote this a few years ago I think that this was because if the stepper motors timeouts aren't disabled, then if I wait for too long, the stepper motors are disabled. and aren't fixed in position using a steady current and if you knock the the printer, the printing head won't go back to the exact same position. d) Enable the stepper motors - Put some current in the stepper motors to fix the position of the plate and the head. e) The @pause is an Octoprint command which displays pause on the Octoprint (and Octodash) display and then allows you to press "Resume". This is the bit where you then insert the bolt. Kinda important. An email is also generated in Octoprint and sent to me so I don't have to watch the printing. d) The M105 returns the print head to the correct temperature after the pause (and the insertion) of the bolt. When the printing head temperature is back to the right temp, the printer carries on. I turn off the temperature as it might be an hour before I respond to the email. You now have a knob with an M3 bolt embedded in it, no glue, no plugs, so it's a lot stronger and neater. This looks like a lot of fuss and steps but it's probably 90 secs to go through to setup. Once you've set it up, you can then "Add Instance" and you can create four of them in a few seconds. Hope this helps somebody Rob

Don't do it. USB-rechargeables have built-in electronics that make a lot of audio-band noise. A decent onboard bass preamp should last at least some months, if not a year or so, on a good battery if you turn it off when not playing. An alkaline 9V battery has a capacity of some 500mAh and a decent preamp should draw no more than 1 or 2 mA. That's hundreds of hours of play time.

This is very nice! You and I must have similar tastes in old Fender basses because I would have done the same thing. I know it sounds good! Congratulations