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Quite, my first thought was a normal mixer but it doesn't really work in the requirement for one rack unit. Or if it does then it doesn't leave much room for your fingers at least.

Okay … so , the remaining questions I have ; that means I purchase that , but would the E- A-D strings be a tight fit in the slots ? I assume that I purchase a 5 string set . plus, does that mean that in theory , I shouldn’t have to take thie bass to a tech after all ?

Boss ES-8 is the answer. Everything goes into its own loop and you can swap the order in the Boss unit that controls it all. You can set patches with different orders.

I've got a couple of truss rods to adjust and as I'm waiting for strings before I do one and I want to get some momentum before tackling the other, here are my truss rod adjustments from easiest to hardest. Headless bass with truss rod adjustment at the unheadstock end, generally a 4mm hex key - easy, but you need to know which way to turn it Truss rod wheel (why did Cort use that on the headless Space 4 and 5 when they could have put a 4mm adjuster at the other end of the neck?) Headed bass with uncovered adjuster at headstock end Hex key adjuster at body end (why did Ibanez use that on the headless EHBs?) Headed bass with covered adjuster at headstock end, with extra points if the adjuster requires a special tool (Pedulla, and their truss rod turns in the unconventional direction too) and the following sub-categories: Pivoting cover section (Ibanez SRF705, don't know about others) Tool-free removable cover section (Warwick) - just be careful not to lose that bit Truss rod cover held on with screws - bonus points for using multiple screws, the worst so far has been Esh with four (guess which bass I need to get a bit of momentum up for?) And finally, and I'm so glad I don't have any of these any more, the awful ones that you have to take the neck off to adjust It also helps to know which way to turn the truss rod. My Warwicks and Seis and the Pedulla all need the adjuster turning anticlockwise to tighten the truss rod (decrease relief), everything else is the other way. Any other truss rod adjustment types? I haven't included double truss rods as they're just two of the same, nor have I mentioned having to bend Rickenbacker necks in order to tighten the truss rod as I've never owned one so never had to perform that operation.

I expect Sandberg had a lawyers letter sometime ago.

Yep that's easy. As @tauzero has posted the pic and link; you simply buy one of those and put it where you present E string slot is, then move the E A D down one position.

This should make more sense 🤦‍♂️

Well the Nazis appropriating the Swastika and turning something beautiful into something ugly and depraved kind of makes any usage of it (transposed or otherwise) in very poor taste. When certain objects have been imbued with meaning and could cause offence then I would suggest no don’t do it. However if you like the style and feel of a sari or have a passion for country music I don’t see why anyone whether they are born and raised in Delhi or Texas should be shamed for wearing a sari or a stetson, or both no matter what gender they identify as.

Ironically, mine doesn't have a battery box and it's a 98. The battery is inside the cavity.

Thanks! They got nice stuff there!

This is the what I have

Late 1800s apparently.

Fantastic! Proper USA Hamer too rather than an import model.... Nooooooice!

Plotting how to get my hands on the boss’s job? Not me mate, I’m just the bass player. from here

valve pre-amp and class D power? Looks nice but hasnt this already been done to death?

Assuming it's a JAN I that you've got in there, one of these: https://shop.warwick.de/ersatzteile-fuer-instrumente/teile-fuer-e-baesse/saettel/warwick-parts-just-a-nut-replacement-nut-screw-wide-slot-b-string

Does your bass have this brass nut? Unless you buy specific BEAD strings, you can just buy 5 string set and bin the G... probably cheaper that way.

I sold Paul a pedal, top bloke to deal with - thanks for a very easy transaction!

Have you tried putting a 4mm in there? There's an initial round hollow bit (which a 5mm would go into) followed by the 4mm bit (which a 5mm wouldn't). Everybody in the civilised world uses 4mm. Hohner use 4mm on the B2.