fergs40

This very guitar, or one very similar, has just appeared on the BC classifieds: I bought a MIJ Mk3 new in 1987 and still have it - mine only has one toggle switch, the back of the neck is body coloured and the battery compartment cover is completely different, though.

This has been kicking around in the small ads of a certain German bass forum for the past couple of months - if I didn’t have one already I would have had it even before the price dropped to its current (ridiculous!) level. It’s had a bit of surgery to insert a battery compartment, but otherwise looks good. if someone buys it I can stop wondering… PS No relationship to the seller or anything, just passing on a tip. But please delete if inappropriate.

My Westone Thunder 1A (the later one with the big - Magnabass? - pickup) has two 9v batteries - and that dates from 1986…

Wir Sind Helden, meine deutsche Lieblingsband… Just celebrated their 20th anniversary, though sadly no longer touring or making new music. This video has an obvious reference, but adds some cleverness of its own.

You’d have to do an awful lot of work to an Ignition to make it look like a CT. The binding for a start. Can’t see how that would be worth anyone’s while for the sales price difference. Faking a German would make more sense, were one that way inclined…

https://www.sandberg-guitars.de/guitars-2/sandberg-florence-series/ The Florence does already exist as a guitar: with a 3:3 headstock…

PS That is a splendid looking bass. Respect!

Couple of thoughts from another 4003 owner. Firstly on the foam in the bridge. As @Doctor J said, usually you just loosen the two thumb screws and the mute drops away. But I think @Bassassinis right that there looks to be too much stuff in there. When you buy replacement foam for the mute (it rots/loses elasticity eventually) it is oversized - you have to cut a piece the right size to glue to the metal former it sits on. I wonder if someone has bought new foam, not realised this, and shoved the whole lot in there? If so, you’ll need to remove the bridge to get to the underside of the mute mechanism to do a decent job of trimming the foam. Not a difficult job - I’d capo the strings at the first fret then loosen them enough to get the saddle out from under them. In the resulting gap you’ll find the screws you need to remove to get the bridge off. The only thing to be careful about is the earth wire connected to the mute assembly - don’t break it lifting the bridge away from the body or getting the assembly out of the bridge. But just a bit of soldering if it does snap off (or just jam the exposed end of the wire back under the bridge when you replace it - that’s what I did when I replaced the original bridge with a Hipshot…) There are libraries filled with advice on Ric trussrods, but here are my thoughts based on owning a 2011 4003 and a 2003 620/12, which should be relevant to a 97 bass. The really temperamental Ric trussrods were on the 4001 basses and possibly the early 4003 ones - then they came up with something more sensible. Well, a bit. The biggest headache is finding a tool to do the adjustment. You need a 1/4 inch socket (the metric equivalent - I’d guess 6.5mm - might work, but I’ve never tried it). The problem is that the clearance around the nut is so narrow that most sockets don’t fit. I’m lucky enough to have one that came with a set I bought in Halfords (UK auto parts store) years ago that fits perfectly. Others speak of grinding down the outer diameter of a socket to make it slim enough. Or spring for the genuine Ric tool (or a guaranteed copy…). Once you can turn the nuts, the rules are pretty much as for any other bass - don’t do anything too crazy and check the results regularly under full string tension/at whatever pitch you play at. NB you don’t have to loosen the strings to make these adjustments - again, that was only required with the older 4001 system. The idea of having two rods is supposedly to make correcting a twisted neck possible. However, I suspect any Ric with a twisted neck got that way precisely because someone who didn’t know what they were doing used this advanced technology to put the twist into it… Anyway, my approach has always been to do the same thing to both rods. As elsewhere, an eighth or a quarter turn is plenty. I don’t think you need to give time for an adjustment to settle, but equally @ezbass’s advice makes sense. An excuse to make a cup of tea if nothing else 🙂 I might, just might, leave the bass side rod a quarter to a half turn looser than the treble side overall to allow more swinging room for the thicker strings, but only if it feels right/suits your playing style - these things are sooooo subjective. Good luck!

Interesting suggestion - from the name I would have expected this case to be designed to fit a violin bass, but if you can get a mustang into it then a Club may well fit. Thanks - I’ll have a look.

As per the title, really - I know I can get the Höfner branded hard case, but I’m interested to hear if anyone has any experience of using a semi-rigid case or well padded gig bag with one of these. Thank you!

My relatively modest list: Hondo II (Ric copy) —GAP— Westone —LOOOOOONG GAP— Rickenbacker Squier Warwick Sandberg Höfner Vigier Squier Still got them all except the Hondo (loaned to a friend, never to be seen again) and the first Squier (a SS Jaguar I just didn’t get on with).

String ends as therapeutic aids - unexpected, but rather excellent! Supplementary question: do different colours have different meanings when used like this?

Tru Bass 88s - if they’re what you’re after they’re very good at it

Some excellent suggestions here. Thank you! So far I am liking the door chimes and the eye-poker best. Not a beard person (sounds like that’s just as well, mind) and gave up smoking - pipes or otherwise - some years ago. The charity craft group wins the prize for most community-minded suggestion. More welcomed!