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Put a little more zest in the run up as to launch the bass, freeing it from the hip position with a single powerful thrust, after which it returns to regular resting position. This is called the One Pump Chump.

Yeah I think the origin stuff isn’t a ‘like for like’ comparison to the other gear out there claiming to do a similar thing. While the question will always be does it sound like… many of these boutique businesses (such as Wren and Cuff with their era correct Muff recreations) it will sound like the particular amp or pedal they have access to which might sound different form your pedal or amp from the same era. What Origin are doing is pretty cool and gonna make a lot of people happy who want the sound and ‘feel’ of those classic amps recreated as closely as possible in a compact form. Will my tube preamp set to sound like a B15 with eq tweaks sound like the Fifteen? No but it may sound close enough or closer than some other B15 recreations, it may sound good enough but I’ve never played a B15 to compare. Im gonna try and pick one up (mostly if a used one comes up) as I think the sound and way people are describing the feel would be the perfect direct to PA for the always on tone and with a simple twist of a knob it would provide the gritty tones I sounds get with other pedals. If anyone’s sending one back let me know if you’d be up for some trade and Px discussion I’ve got some gear I’d be up for discussing 😀

RIP Mani

IME scale length on its own has little effect on the sound and feel of low B. It is all down to the construction of the bass and the right choice of strings. If I was in the OP's position I would first try another set of strings, maybe one with a taper-wound B string. Remember that strings that work with one bass will not necessarily be the best choice for another. All my basses are fitted with different strings because each has a set that suits that particular bass the best. If the problem persists look first at the neck joint. With the strings fitted but not tuned to pitch very slightly loosen the neck bolts - about half a turn is normally sufficient. Then tune the bass to pitch and leave for a few hours to settle. Then tighten the neck bolts up again. What this does is to use the tension of the strings to pull the neck tightly into the neck pocket which makes the joint as strong as possible. If you are still getting dead spot problems then try a Fat Finger as suggested although be aware that this works by moving the position of the dead spot to somewhere where it is hopefully less obvious rather than removing it.

This ⬆️ If you look at all the clever, expensive tech that Yamaha have had to employ to get even a vaguely acoustic sound from the SLB300 then it points to it being a very tricky task. I would just embrace the sound you are achieving from it with your current setup.

I prefer to think of it as oxtail soup. My second favourite colour, after 3T sunburst.

Yes the bass won't leave my house !

From a nice, sedate build up to our annual Christmas performance at the local Crown Court Xmas party, I suddenly find myself with two additional dep gigs to prepare for within the same week. Both are with bands I've depped for in the past, and both involve different versions (key and arrangement) of the same song which is also in the set for the Christmas party. It's hard work going between all three and trying to keep a track of which one is for which gig. 😀

The bassrig stuff is modelling the preamp, poweramp, reactive load and cab sim that’s been tuned to match the original cab - it’s going to do one thing but it’s going to do it really really well. the VTDI is a preamp with a simple cab sim at the end, I don’t know how complex it it is shape wise. Where I’ve seen an electrical examination of the VTDI the character knob is a variable eq curve that can dial in a more driven sound, or dial it out (b15 a like) It’s a great pedal big “I want a B15 sound in a pedal” investigations don’t often mention the VTDI as an option. I think they sit in different categories, an Ampeg sgt would be a closer alternative- or if you really were after two bass amps on a budget the tonex one would probably do it digitally. Origin aren’t doing it in digital, are U.K. made and are aiming at a level of “let’s engineer this thing well” where price point and value for money aren’t their primary driver of what they are doing.

£7 to 8k sounds about right. 1. Put it up on here. 2. Try musicalchairs.info Minimal advertising fees ...but selling can be slow. Dealers will ALWAYS rip 15 to 20% from you for a commission sale and usually find "some work" that needs doing before it can go in their showroom....however, they will also put a top price on it and are more likely to find a buyer. Use a specialist: Turners in Nottingham Thwaites in Watford Tim Toft in Stone T&G Martin in Oxfordshire, maybe. Etc My mum sold my late dad's cello last year. It was worth up to £90k (!!) sold for £85k by a dealer who took 15% and also charged £5k for "renovation". Mum got £73k. Last seen being played at the proms! Anyway, that's how it is with dealers and restorers.

Eton Rifles - The Jam

There’s 3 versions of the 15 in that link, with different coil diameters, so that should help identify it for sure! Get your tape measure out @tonewheelkev!

Gunfight - Sick Puppies

Would detuning the B string to say A and seeing if the dead spot moves with it help isolate if it's a setup issue or not?

If you love both sounds, the answer is obviously to get both, otherwise you’d miss one. Much more deep bass available in the SV. They are different beasts.

Reason for my original enquiry, latest bitsa project to land….

But it was way better than the finishes that followed - that partially see-through white that looked as though they'd run out of rattle can and couldn't be bothered to get another one to complete the job, or sh!t brown.