Headstock Scratch - "Schoolboy Error"

[Cosmo Valdemar]

9 hours ago, Dazed said:

How deep is the scratch? 

How deep is the scratch, how deep is the scratch - I really mean to learn...

 

If it were me I'd just leave it. If it were on the body I'd be a bit bothered but it's hardly noticeable, although I'm sure at the moment it's the most noticeable thing in the world to you! 

Pop it in its case for a couple of days, it'll probably seem a lot better when you take it out again.

[JoeEvans]

You need something to give a very fine polish - the visible white of a scratch in lacquer is the rough surface of the damaged area. If you can polish it out, the actual scar will be pretty much invisible. I'd actually try T-Cut, for a leftfield option that might not work (but might).

[meterman]

7 minutes ago, JoeEvans said:

If you can polish it out, the actual scar will be pretty much invisible. I'd actually try T-Cut, for a leftfield option that might not work (but might).

^ This might do the job. Apply some T-cut to the scratch and buff it until you see some improvement. If it doesn’t work and the scratch is still really bugging you, maybe get a spot refinish? 

[Rexel Matador]

If just polishing doesn't work, you might be able to do a drop fill with superglue https://www.stewmac.com/video-and-ideas/online-resources/learn-about-instrument-finishing-and-finish-repair/fixing-a-small-chip-in-your-guitars-finish/#:~:text=Dan Erlewine%3A Drop fills are,I've been doing here.

[Muppet]

I've had success with the steam option before.  After that I would go with the Liberon wax crayons. After that, find a local french polisher if it's still annoying you. 

 

[Count Bassy]

It's going to get more dings. If it were me I'd just leave it.

[Mickyk]

You need some of these ,we used to use them in the furniture trade years ago,just keep building up coats,no need to sand or anything,just keep applying with the colour closets to your headstock until you reach a decent match.the scratch will become invisible almost. Good luck.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Magic-Furniture-Repair-Markers-Medium/dp/B01L8GLZ5I/ref=asc_df_B01L8GLZ5I/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=469046074987&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17266168027303443019&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046413&hvtargid=pla-423467327413&th=1

 

Edited August 21, 2023 by Mickyk

[thebrig]

Thanks for all the advice, I think I will try Mickyk's advice first.

 

I've ordered the Magic Wood Furniture Touch Up Repair Markers Pens from Amazon, and they will also be handy for using on the wooden furniture I have around the home that have accumulated a few scratches over the years.

[Mykesbass]

17 hours ago, Mickyk said:

You need some of these ,we used to use them in the furniture trade years ago,just keep building up coats,no need to sand or anything,just keep applying with the colour closets to your headstock until you reach a decent match.the scratch will become invisible almost. Good luck.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Magic-Furniture-Repair-Markers-Medium/dp/B01L8GLZ5I/ref=asc_df_B01L8GLZ5I/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=469046074987&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17266168027303443019&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046413&hvtargid=pla-423467327413&th=1

 

Without wishing to derail the thread, did you find these to be better than the old Liberon crayons that I recommended? Many have to get some to try.

[Stub Mandrel]

I have a 1980s Hohner B2. Early on it was converted to left hand drive and back again. Holes filled. Then resprayed. Overpainted, stickered, decorated. Then vinyl wrapped.

 

I stripped it. Filled it. Sanded it. Primed it. For weeks. Colour sprayed it. Left for weeks to cure awaiting a vinyl logo and final lacquer. Logo wrong size. Couple of weeks later... fell off the hanger and got scratched chipped and dinged...

 

Refilled, sanded, primed. Fell down again less damage. Filled...

 

I am on the point of giving up on a good finish and either spraying it with textured stone paint or airbrushing it with German WW2 tank camouflage and weathering it...

[franzbassist]

On 20/08/2023 at 20:58, Cosmo Valdemar said:

How deep is the scratch, how deep is the scratch - I really mean to learn...

 

You beat me to it

 

And yes, I'd either leave it or do the iron with a damp tea towel trick.

[Mickyk]

5 hours ago, franzbassist said:

 

You beat me to it

 

And yes, I'd either leave it or do the iron with a damp tea towel trick.

Which shrinks when it dries out again.

[Mickyk]

6 hours ago, Mykesbass said:

Without wishing to derail the thread, did you find these to be better than the old Liberon crayons that I recommended? Many have to get some to try.

Personally we found them to be better than the Crayons,If the scratch is deeper than the surface  ,it will need some  coloured wax to match first to fill it up,and than apply with the Marker over the top.It doesn't look that deep anyway.

[franzbassist]

11 minutes ago, Mickyk said:

Which shrinks when it dries out again.

 

Not in my experience, but horses for courses....

[Mickyk]

21 hours ago, franzbassist said:

 

Not in my experience, but horses for courses....

It will shrink over time ,all you're doing is imparting moisture into the wood in the form of Steam which makes the wood swell ,however when that wood then dries it will eventually revert back to its original state.Well it did when i was in the Furniture trade any way which was interior Flush doors made from Oak ,Ash ,Maple veneers etc, which nowadays are classed as items of Furniture.

[Stub Mandrel]

On 23/08/2023 at 14:03, Mickyk said:

It will shrink over time ,all you're doing is imparting moisture into the wood in the form of Steam which makes the wood swell ,however when that wood then dries it will eventually revert back to its original state.Well it did when i was in the Furniture trade any way which was interior Flush doors made from Oak ,Ash ,Maple veneers etc, which nowadays are classed as items of Furniture.

 

It really works on bare wood. The hot water softens the fibres, then as it becomes steam and expands it forces the fibres to push out. If done right they keep their shape. I was surprised how well it worked.

[leroydiamond]

On 20/08/2023 at 13:08, ezbass said:

Wet cloth, soldering iron, steam it out, as suggested by @Mudpup.

I have used this technique for taking dents out of 2 fretboards (maple and rosewood). Worked a treat.

[ezbass]

1 hour ago, leroydiamond said:

I have used this technique for taking dents out of 2 fretboards (maple and rosewood). Worked a treat.

I've subsequently used it on furniture that was dented when moving house.

 

On the 'does it work on a sealed finish' question, the first move is to try. If it doesn't work, there is a further option for this technique. When I bought my used Rob Allen, there was a ding in the the neck, which is finished in nitro. Rather than just ahead on an expensive instrument, I contacted Rob Allen and he said that if the finish was unbroken, a small score with a razor blade would open up the finish for the steam treatment. It turns out that the finish was broken anyway and the dent lifted and is still fine to this day.

[Mickyk]

On 24/08/2023 at 16:06, Stub Mandrel said:

 

It really works on bare wood. The hot water softens the fibres, then as it becomes steam and expands it forces the fibres to push out. If done right they keep their shape. I was surprised how well it worked.

I know.