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Rexel Matador

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396 Excellent

About Rexel Matador

  • Birthday 10/07/1981

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  • Location
    Liverpool

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  1. I suspect it also depends where the perpendicular fret is. I put mine at 7 as I thought it would make things feel a bit more familiar at the lower frets, compared to having it up at 12 - seems to have worked.
  2. I just built a multiscale 4 string - 900mm to 850mm, with the perpendicular fret at the 7th a la Dingwall. I leave it in the rehearsal room, while all my other basses at home are standard frets, 34 inch scale or shorter. I've had no problems switching between the two - it's really not that much of an adjustment.
  3. I used these in a build https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/113988807342 - well, actually I haven't finished it yet, so can't completely vouch for them, but they seem pretty solid. I went for 6mm simply because I already had a router bit of that size. I might have used smaller ones otherwise. Regarding length, I suppose it would be good to have them about the same as the truss rod, but probably not essential. There was a bass build on the Crimson Guitars YouTube channel a while back where he used four 4mm rods, two on each side. Perhaps you could do that and sort of stagger them so they run the whole length of the neck - the inner two starting at the nut end and the outer two ending at the heel end.
  4. Everything About You by Ugly Kid Joe. My old band supported Whitfield Crane at some dive in Newcastle last year and I got to share this fact with him 😂
  5. I agree. The GZR is a perfectly good pickup and the super easy install is a bonus, but it certainly didn't blow me away when I tried it. I wouldn't consider it a necessary upgrade to a p-bass which already has a pretty decent pickup in it.
  6. And here's a 200: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fender-Rumble-200-Watt-V3-Bass-Amp-Combo-barley-used-in-excellent-condition/283883654794?hash=item4218c8ce8a:g:HM8AAOSwx0Few87V
  7. I agree with the above. Fender Rumble amps are great. You can get them in pretty much any size, they sound great and weigh nothing.
  8. Hi! Do you need a combo or just a head? What kind of power/size are you looking for? What sort of gigs is it going to need to handle?
  9. Less than Jake. The guitarist and bassist share lead vocals but the drummer writes the lyrics.
  10. The bass looks awesome, so classy! I buy mail order from Reid Timber all the time. The prices and quality are amazing. Regarding ordering without seeing the stuff, of course it's not ideal, but I once asked him if he had something that wasn't showing as in stock on the site, and he took pictures of specific pieces and emailed them to me, so it's worth asking if you're looking for something in particular and want a close-up - I get the impression he's happy to help.
  11. 320 grit will get you a nice smooth look and feel, in my experience. Maybe 400 if you're feeling fancy. Other people might have different opinions. Oil finishes are very nice and rely safe/easy to do. Boiled Linseed Oil, Tung Oil, Danish Oil, etc. Not as durable as lacquer because they penetrate the wood rather than sitting on top of it - they certainly give a nice feel to a neck though. If you do a good job with the sanding they can look amazing.
  12. It wouldn't hurt to leave a little room to go forwards, just in case. It seems to me that there are so many little factors affecting intonation that you can never predict where it'll end up. But as you say, it almost always requires you to move it backwards.
  13. This is a largely forgotten gem - on side A he plays guitar and side B he plays piano: Also there's Leroy Carr... ...and Victoria Spivey That's just off the top of my head - I might think of more
  14. Measuring another P that you're happy with would probably be a safe enough way to do it. Also the stewmac website says that the screw holes for a standard Fender style bridge should be one inch back from where the scale length ends. I find that for correct intonation, you almost always need to move the saddles back (away from the nut) to make the strings longer than the scale length, so when placing a bridge, I put it so that the saddles are in line with the actual end of the scale length when they're in (or very nearly in) their forewardmost position, so you have plenty of scope to move them back - does that make sense? But then you still have to get it centred. You can put a long ruler/straightedge against the side of the fretboard and mark a line that essentially extends the line of the neck all the way down the body. Do this for both sides of the fretboard - use masking tape if you don't want to mark the body - and then centre the bridge in between the two lines. then, instead of using actual strings, which you won't really be able to pull straight if the bridge isn't screwed down, use pieces of string in place of the outer strings to check that they run correctly along the fretboard. If you're using two pieces of string of the same thickness, remember that the one representing the low string should be a bit further from the edge of the board to account for the string being thicker.
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