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A closer examination of the Babicz site for Gibson 3 point bridge looks promising on the ball to bridge length

It appears that the new bridge will give 'better' height and lateral location adjustment. Now remind me what the main issue with the traditional 3 and 2 point bridge is, namely the anchor to saddle distance is too short on the E string. Some of us have used / made a bass bar (or used old saddle or nut) as a spacer to overcome this issue. Next look closely at the E string anchor to saddle distance on the Gibson image. Notice where the string winding sits. John Birch had an elegant solution to this one, a mix of the 2 point and fender BBOT. The one on my SG bass was stainless steel, nicely made.

Focusrite plays well with Linux for those of inclined that way I am also well impressed with the Hi Z direct in recording quality, but then again I am only just starting this game.

Strings received today, many thanks. Excellent communication.

In SG bass, always wanted one, with pyramid golds it nails the Jack Bruce / Andy Fraser / Peter Cruickshank sound. Modern strings play well with short scale. Realised short scale is easier with small hands. Peavey Millenium now fitted with EMGs - £100 all in. How cheap can you go? out - nothing yet...

Explaining Class compatible is quite a vast task - [url="http://www.usb.org/developers/defined_class"]http://www.usb.org/developers/defined_class [/url] , [url="http://www.usb.org/developers/compliance/"]http://www.usb.org/developers/compliance/[/url] Expanding on Chriswareham's reply earlier, 'class compatible' means that the manufacturer should have designed and implemented the USB interface in accordance to the standards / specifications that have been defined and published. It should also mean that the USB interface performs to the specification / standards. The use of open standards should make software and driver implementation (if needed) much simpler. Class compliant devices should just 'plug and play'. Notice I use should, not everyone plays fully by the rules I would suggest looking at devices that are USB 2 (or even 3) class compliant. In my recent pre-purchase internet searching I found that most major manufacturers seem to state this in their specifications

This will be fixable without the need to purchase a new pre-amp. A sound clip of the noise would be useful. Without any test equipment / measurements etc my brute force method would be (i) replace any electrolytic capacitors (ii) check for dry joints and re-solder. A good electronics engineer will sort this quickly, it is a straightforward simple circuit, especially with Frank's link to the circuit.

[quote name='discreet' timestamp='1419711073' post='2642168'] It is - when I started playing bass, if you didn't have a Fender or Gibson or R*ck*nb*ck*r, then you had something which was barely playable at best and a pile of junk at worst, but F, G and R basses were prohibitively expensive at the time. Now you can buy something which looks, plays and sounds totally the business for a very reasonable price - so the decal thing has become moot. Particularly as there are now many manufacturers making basses that are at least as good as and in many cases a lot better than, F, G and R. [/quote] So well put, my experience exactly from bass playing circa 1974 onwards, especially having owned them all, FGR at various times. Fond memories (LOL) of Kay (Woolworths?) Columbus, Jedson, Avon basses The only bit of kit I have left from that era is a Shure Unidyne B mic. The plus of that era was Marshall, Hiwatt, VOX etc amps at silly prices compared to today.

Quality of kit these days is so good for the money. Does the label matter? My 1980s USA bass is very nice to play. So is the Chinese mass produced bass with EMGs fiited (£100 all in). Is there much difference - not really.

Use the well known BC for flatwounds. Pre owned and run in, at a fraction of the new price. Cheap, me, never

CC need to look through BC. Used SG basses are outstanding value at the moment.

[quote name='gazgoldstar' timestamp='1419363376' post='2639222'] ..... maybe a wire is grounding against another or something along those lines. [/quote] Get the magnifying glass out, have a good look for 'wire whiskers', bits of stray metal or wires touching somewhere on the circuit(s). Good look.

Auction site - collectible, vintage, rare, unique, worn and played in, relic, mojo etc. Or fit strange pickups and adjust action with suitable description about height and gnat's appendage. Must be £500

[quote name='JTUK' timestamp='1418754815' post='2633013'] As tough as it is... all round, I think you should try and be cordial and sensible about it so your stance about paying his 'dues' IF he gives you more work is a way of mending fences...a bit... but if he is going to bin you, which he may well do AFTER the pay-off, I'd think he can wait for his money, with all that goes with a complex overseas haggle. And.... lesson learned and the maxim should now be..as the poster above said, if the answer has to be now, the answer is No. He then would have had a chance to ask elsewhere and maybe would still have had to come back to you as you'd still be a 'possible' to him and you would have brought yourself 24 hrs or so. I say this because the reason he was so tough on his stance is because he was under so much pressure as well.... and he'd had no luck getting a yes elsewhere....??? [/quote] Some very good advice here, I would also suggest getting some legal advice - you never know what wriggle room you might have.

[quote name='timmo' timestamp='1418489621' post='2630648'] If you have problems with wireless, the obvious solution is to hook it all together with a blue cable. It will solve all the problems of dropping out, and still have the benefits of being wireless [/quote] Is this the special blue 'metal free' type of wireless cable?

[quote name='stingrayPete1977' timestamp='1418468001' post='2630404'] That is right Diablo, I find that its best to play over the pickup when using a wireless setup as again that is going to get the signal to the amp quicker too, if you are playing something really fast on a regular basis I would suggest a really low action too, I think I read that for every 1mm of action off the 12th fret creates a 250ms delay, fretless basses are unaffected something to do with ebony wood absorbing the mhz but thats too technical for me [/quote] The air delay and other frequency changes due to atmospheric conditions can be overcome through common everyday engineering. The guitar or bass should be played in a suitable vessel that is at very low atmospheric pressure or ideally a vacuum e.g. diving decompression chamber. In the interests of safety a suitable air supply should be provided for the instrument player. Concerns have been expressed by several authors that these conditions lead to significant fast signals. These 'fast' signals are known to cause a timing advance rather than delay, leading to musical dissonance. Further research should be devoted to determining the optimum atmospheric conditions for string to pickup transmission.

[quote name='Diablo' timestamp='1418245100' post='2628480'] By far the best cables are striped. The two different bass-carrying frequencies of the pigments in the stripes act in unison and allow the electromagnetic waves to amplify themselves bringing clearer tone and lower bass frequency carrying capacity. I have found that cables marked with manufacturers names interfere with this electromagnetic transformation capacity and cause depleted musical performance. If only someone would invent a rainbow coloured cable (axial stripes - not radial, they stop the karma, man) then we can all bass-happy. [/quote] I think you are an astro-turfer for Multicolour cables inc., a subdivision of Wildbeast cables if you get my drift. The thread has made me smile after a long tiring day at the chalk face (which I thought I had escaped). From a Physics perspective the colour of the cables is highly likely to affect the frequency response. The coaxial cable - insulator combination forms a capacitor (classic first year physics degree exam question). The permittivity of tjhe insulator will be affected by the presence of colouring chemicals within it. This will affect the capacitance and hence frequency response. probably, to paraphrase a well known to this province guitar restorer - by a gnats whisker.

16 Ohms cab will help reduce power delivered by head, thus lessening chances of destruction. Take a look at most solid state specifications - max power usually at 4 or 2 ohms, significantly less power at 16 ohms. Speakers at 200W thermal power rating is not a lot in this day and age in comparison to the potential output of your head at 16 ohns. If it starts 'farting' or making other bad noises adjust the loud knob downwards.

Am now just wondering how professional symphony orchestra musicians are, they all seem to use music stands

TI flats, my first ever set now 8 years on G&L bass. Can be very aggressive, sometimes I think ' must get some flatwounds'. Have only had one bass these did not suit - Gibson SG 30", pyramid golds solved that one.