Downunderwonder

Made it smaller. Made it lighter. Made it louder. No mean feat that now you could skateboard to your gig with more firepower than an Ampeg fridge rig.

No. You're obviously not familiar with the skullduggery that is the bass the comes out of an AER. No way you're keeping that with an alternative driver.

Way to land on your feet.

Johnny Cash did U2's One with such magnificent old man melancholy that it lifted the lyrics into wonderful poetry.

Possibly you well over did the fixing rate. When it's grossly out of adjustment it's easy to overshoot as it resettles. If I was you I would attempt to adjust the nut back half of what was put in and leave it for a day to see where it lands.

Trace Elliot TransitB does that along with some pretty gnarly blending drive and a full EQ section that can also be switched in and out.

I'm sure there's plenty that do distortion and fuzz. You need both just right or you're forced to compromise for the sake of carrying one box instead of two. So many tight distortions, so many fuzzes. You may as well have exactly what you want. Tight distortion is in the wheelhouse of a BDDI Deluxe. It also does a clean boost which can be had with or without more drive AND with or without the secondary fx loop enabled.

I was thinking you had clean down, care of the new amp, so two stomps to cover the rest.

Rather than the holy grail I think you would be better off seeking an overdrive and a fuzz that do what you want. Two pedals is hardly a board and it will be whole lot easier to obtain perfection.

The tuner has an aux power out supply point which may save you a potential bad loop. Sometimes the ground reference of a pedal is different after awhile on, or off. I know that sounds like I know what I am talking about but actually not. I had a problem when two particular pedals where both on and not with either on separately. That was how it was explained to me more ot less. Adding an biamp into mix isn't going to help.

No tube, but it does overdrive, that was never a SMX thing. Being a 9v pedal there's going to be some power amps it won't fully drive. You want one with 0.7v sensitivity. Or just use a bass amp with fx loop input.

Power output is assuredly nonlinear to the dial positions. Partly for good reason, volume and power are decidedly nonlinear as well! And partly because all amp makers cheat a little or a lot in making the lower dial sweep add volume faster than the rest.

I make it an average 15mm thick. The bigger size 41cm nets 5.7°C rise.

Not seeing it.

Thanks for that. The opening line is so apt: "I find that there are far too many fins, louvers and holes in this world." A furry carpet coating not accounted for and a sunny day outside might add up to a few more degrees inside but not enough to trip the overheating breaker methinks. Gut instinct overridden by actual numbers. Next question. What's the actual surface temp of a furry cab in the summer sun? I would run it sideways just because everything likes running cooler rather than hotter.

Tbf they probably don't get to make a choice of who they use in the UK. They have a choice to not use DHL at home in Germany but that would be dopey. Looks like DHL UK sold them a pup with their business plan of send a van to clear out a store room when it gets full or some customer complaints their return isn't being actioned. I wonder what will happen to OP's bass in the end. It sounds pretty dire with faults not economic to rectify. Not so long ago Amazon were in the cart for landfilling all manner of return items instead of sorting the defective and restocking the good, or shock horror donating it to a charity who would.

Only for turning off ime. Mids are my friend.

???? Looks pretty tight to the cab to me, as it should be or it could wheeze. If the maths is right 12 sec is so much less than DAYS that there must be some major disconnect between what OP and Agedhorse are seeing and what I am seeing.

Score.

My back of envelope calc says it would take 12 seconds for 50 w to raise 50l of air by 10 degrees C. So either my maths is stuffed or you're saying a cabinet is a really pish poor insulator. Specific heat of air 1kJ/kgC Density of air 1.2kg/m³ 50l = 0.05m³ 50W is 50 Joule per second. 10deg x1kJ/kgC x0.05m³ x 1.2kg/m³ = 0.6kJ unless I am mistaken. 600J isn't a while lot of energy. 12 sec worth of 50w. BZZZZ, WHAT THE HECK IS WRONG HERE!!!!!??? 5w would be 2 minutes. 20 minutes of 5w would be cooking except the cab surface gets warm and radiates. But how warm must it get inside for it to do that???

Either I am missing something or you don't have any appreciation of the thermodynamics at play here. All amps sink heat into the air one way or another. Heat from transistors goes to finned heat sinks or direct to air. The air may be fan assisted or just convection. In this case it is the air inside of the cabinet, with no ventilation! Thus the air gradually gets warmer and warmer with each pass through the amp. All of the aml heatsinks and fans in the world don't change the heat transport to the outside air. Agedhorse seems to be saying the cab exterior surface can radiate enough heat that the air inside won't ever get uncomfortably hot? I think if I ran a hairdryer inside a cabinet it would take quite a long time for the surface to get a little bit warm by which time it would be hell hot in there and likely blow up the hairdryer first. Quid pro quo a cabinet is a good thermal insulator. Down at the other end of the curve the amp heats much less than a hairdryer so conceivably it could warm up the cab just enough that it radiated the same amount but I still reckon that it get would too warm inside for the good of the amp. So all in all it's a bit of mystery. Added to that I don't understand you not wanting to do the first test with the amp sideways, feeling for a warm draught out of the top port, with a chance to decide discretion is the better plan.

Please explain. Ime micro amps all get nicely warm to hot enough to be properly glad it's got a fan. My gut instinct is the inside of a 112 is claustrophobic enough that it would get extra warm in there with that amount of heat being shed continuously and the main heat loss being out through the walls of the cabinet.

That's thanks to fresh air being pumped through the amp by its fan But now it only pumps air previously warmed by the last verse / tune / set very well insulated by the furry enclosure, a recipe for overheating.

The air movement in the cab is very little as it sits in the photo. Any driver induced air moving out and being exchanged as it moves back into the ports is the coldest. Inside the cab it's snug as a bug in a rug. There's a little space heater gradually getting warmer and warmer at the top. You can easily test it by giving it the next workout on its side and feeling the draught exiting the top. All that air changing is what keeps the inside temp liveable for the amp.