Bigguy2017

I had to do something similar when I swapped out a PJ's J PU. The split P pickup should be wound RPRW (Reverse Polarity Reverse Wound) so it works as a humbucker. It is possible it is incorrectly poled with the two halves wound out of phase but the magnetic poles the same. If so, half of it will always be out of phase with PU2 giving the symptoms you report on two strings. Check to see if the P pickup is correctly wired / magnet poled by connecting a meter on ohms range across the pickup and pulling an allen key off the pole pieces - this will show the true phase of the PU. Reverse the phase of PU2 and try it - OR - do as paul_5 suggests and reverse half the P pickup (this looses the humbucking as a single PU)... Ideally a two PU bass should have the two PUPs wound RPRW so they hum cancel when combined?

That's weird... if you slacken a string does the saddle slide fore and aft?

As the screws come in two lengths, and you're running out of length to intonate, the longer ones would be best... 😉

Looks like this spring screw combo is the one... https://www.stringsdirect.co.uk/parts-c4/hardware-c706/screws-c111/all-parts-bridge-length-screws-for-bass-stainless-jazz-precision-bass-with-springs-4-pack-p9119 ALLPARTS All Parts Bridge length screws for bass stainless Jazz / Precision Bass With Springs 4 PACK £3.50

As far as I can tell these will do... https://www.vintageguitarandbass.com/fender/bass/Mustang_parts_list.php 043349 String length screw (6-32 x 1 5/8 machine) 043356 String length screw (6-32 x 1 7/8 machine)(Bridge 1st + 2nd) 030015 000 Spring, Length adjust (Bridge 1st + 2nd) 028282 000 Spring, Length adjust (Bridge 3rd + 4th) 015842 000 Screw, Length adjust (1 1/2") (Bridge) 043356 000 String length screw (6-32 x 1 7/8 machine)(Bridge 1st + 2nd) ====================== * 015842 000 Screw, Length adjust (1 1/2") (Bridge) * 030015 000 Spring, Length adjust (Bridge 1st + 2nd) https://www.stringsdirect.co.uk/parts-c4/hardware-c706/screws-c111/intonation-screws-c429/fender-vintage-bass-intonation-screws-nickel-12-pack-p12860 FENDER Vintage Bass Intonation Screws, Nickel, 12-Pack £6.99 Can't find a supplier for the spring, but it's probably common to other Fender bass saddles...

Just bought a Friedman Runt 20 combo from them. Excellent price, great service, speedy delivery from Cologne DE. Yes, I'd use them again.

I never use the volume control on my basses except as a cut switch. I use the the tone control/s all the time... On guitar I use both, particularly on the Les Paul.

Check out the little Yerasov extension cabs http://yerasov.co.uk/products.html#CABINETS 12 "Jensen C12R 10" Jensen C10Q both 8R and 8kg I have the GT15 combo and its truly excellent.

Yes a green pan scourer is perfect for this. You can really go to town on with it... lots of varnish dust comes off and it's wee a bit scary. 😉 Finish with Birchwood Casey gun stock wax (like Musicman do) for a super smooth feel. I do this on all my basses except the Ric.

My bro's one has a zero fret...

There's a new tc pedal out... TC Electronic Flashback 2 X4 Delay and Looper Pedal £189.00 Inc. VAT https://www.andertons.co.uk/brands/tc-electronic/tc-electronic-flashback-v2-x4? Well worth a look, MIDI and it takes Tone Prints too.

Strymon Timeline or BigSky... not cheap

Maybe pull the dent out, carefully, with sellotape?

The two knurled knobs raise or lower the (missing?) mute pad bridge height adjustment screws are 1/16" allen truss rod requires a very slim 1/4" socket and manual bending of the neck

There are two long screws by the carry handle which hold the bottom liner piece in place. After removing these the liners can be slowly prised out with a scraper - they're held in with some hot-melt glue. The handle and latches are screwed in from inside. Any repairs to the shell can be made with ABS sheet (eBay) and MEK (pipeweld). Plastikote Matt Super black spray paint is a good match for the plastic. Here's the handle and the long screws - Case arrived like this due to mongrel couriers...

Could be Rotosound Swing Bass What gauges do they measure ?

After decades of using Weller irons which used to last well but don't any more, I tried the Solomon (Pensol) soldering stations. SOLOMON SL-20 SOLOMON SL-30 with temp display They are cheaper than Weller, more reliable and even better in use. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soldering-station-48W-230V-24V-SL20-N-Solomon/173401940969?epid=5007755123&hash=item285f8fa3e9:g:11EAAOSwAOdbQzUF&frcectupt=true https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soldering-station-48W-230V-24V-SL30-N-Solomon/113140790265?epid=2278796353&hash=item1a57b773f9:g:m6kAAOSwkyxbQzUF&frcectupt=true Hakko are excellent too.

I did not see that... time to get my specs re-calibrated I think.

Me too. 1. It has no fingerboard and is unplayable as a bass guitar. 2. that construction isn't going to last a week - no truss rod, it will slowly fold up on itself.

Now that's what I call a fretless...

Could be a dry solder joint. Check the soldering between the grey connector and the PCB.

Make up a couple of XLR to TS jack cables; wire XLR2 to jack tip wire XLR3 to jack sleeve wire XLR1 to cable screen and do not connect at jack plug. Balanced signals don't actually need the screen - the signal is the difference between hot and cold. The above cables will be screened via the mixer.