BB2000

There's very little bass in the Motown recording, it's all mids, so if you want to be true to the records I'd roll of the bass as well as the treble. Otherwise use string mutes, and ideally flats. Rounds are fine though, if correctly muted.

A pair of EA Wizzy's are worth a shot. I've had a Wizzy and an MLine for years and don't see me changing anytime soon. Compared to most cabs out there they have a pretty even frequency response. I've tried Schroeder and Aguilar, and they are both much too coloured for my liking. I prefer to start with a fairly even response and then dial in the eq I need. Note that most cabs have a pair of connectors, allowing you to connect them in parallel (not series) so one output connector on the head is usually adequate.

Just ordered another P5110. I see the price of the head alone has fallen to £345 (was £360 a couple of weeks back) which almost made me go for the head + cab option, but then I suppose you lose the convenience of the combo. Then again the standalone cab is 4" taller than the combo, so it probably has a better bass response. Hmm...

[quote name='Beedster' post='922179' date='Aug 11 2010, 11:58 PM']I'm certainly no expert John, but as I understand it, there are issues around the power supply in some Class D amp models, especially with units designed to run on USA power supply. I have a lengthy email from Phil Jones on the topic somewhere, I'll try to dig it out. C[/quote] That's likely specific to that particular design. One thing that you do sometimes find with some architectures of class-D amps that are noisy (due to poor design) is that the noise or audio feed through isn't white (broadband) but can have annoying tones in it. Even if you're not consciously aware of them I think they have a bearing on how annoying you find the noise. I've tried a few that I couldn't listen to for more than a few minutes (I'd just focus on the noise) even though I'd happily play through non-switching amps with higher levels of noise. It's a pity that the manufactures won't specify noise parameters since if you do get a bad one you're at the mercy of the dealer if you want to return it. At least Thomann are good in that respect.

Class D amps shouldn't hiss any more than conventional class A or AB amps. If yours is very bad send it back to Thomann. I do think there are QA issues with these. I had one on load about a month ago and thought it was a great little practice amp, so ordered one for myself. When it arrived it sounded crap (hard to describe but it was somehow muffled). I swapped heads with my mates unit and the my head sounded fine in his combo, but my combo still sounded crap with his known good head. Back it went, and I got a replacement in due course. The replacement sounded like it should (no hiss by the way). But, turning it on the following day it made a hell of a rasping noise and died. There wasn't exactly a puff of smoke but I could smell that something had burned out inside the amp. So back it went. I decided to get a refund at that point, but I am in two minds whether to give the combo another shot. They are suprisingly nice (if you get a working one!) for the size.

I've played the BB1024 (an ex demo model) but not the BB2024 (yet). It's an OK bass, but I was expecting something special. I'd say the old BB2000 series or the current BB3000 basses are better instruments. (Note that recent BB3000 basses are build in the same Yamaha custom shop as the BB2024 series). If you're into theh slapping/popping nonsense the standard (as opposed to reverse) neck pickup orientation on the BB1024 gives a rather nasal sound when popping on the D,G strings, whereas the BB2000 is more jazz like (due to similar pup spacings on the D,G strings).

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='919273' date='Aug 9 2010, 08:44 AM']Mr Foxen is correct in a slightly cheeky way, - clear high frequency output is was a capacitor doesn't do, it rolls off the trebles as the tone pot is turned down, it is a high pass filter. Most high freq response is of course with the tone on 10, thats zero(ish) resistance and the cap is not in play. Can we direct you to this fascinating recent post which explores many aspects of the cap arguments? [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=95539"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=95539[/url] My summary would be that it takes sensitive electronic measuring equipment to differentiate the tonal differences between cap types, and negligible effect for a pair of ears to be able to tell the difference.[/quote] Most basses have the tone control wired as a series RC connected in parallel across the output. With the tone control at 10 the resistance will be at the maximum value (not minimum) to minimize the HF current through the cap.

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='908272' date='Jul 28 2010, 03:17 PM']Tant caps have high tolerance (accurate value)[/quote] Not true.