BassBod

I've used both a Crazy 8 and Barefaced Midget over the last few years - here's some observations. The BF Midget has too much mid range emphasis for me on acoustic or EUB. Fine with bass guitar (I can eq it to smooth out the aggressive edge) but I couldn't get on with it for upright bass. I expect the new Gen. III version will be better, now that Alex is having drivers made to his specs, rather than using existing speakers. The Crazy 8 worked very well and had an amazing low end - its a very neutral cab. It stops working so well when you have a lot of background noise or unsympathetic drummer..then DI options are the only hope. The only thing I didn't like was the composite construction (mine was an Arnopol light version) it just felt too fragile. It also calls for a really small amp like the AI or EA micros.

My dad knew him as part of the Bristol jazz scene in the late 50s and 60s. In the early 70's we were living in Long Island and my Dad got to spend some time in New York, walking around seeing all the jazz clubs he'd read about..the first jazz he heard coming from an open door as he walked around the Big Apple was Stranger on the Shore, all the way from Pensford.

Do it...they've been around a long time and should b able to repair a recent product without any further problems.

Can't help, but any experienced amp tech should be able to sort it out - very standard 80's tech. Look on the web for a circuit plan, as that always helps. The amp is probably at least 15 years old so a number of components could be out of condition etc etc.

Good cab...but heavy by modern standards. I've heard the 10" can be blown, so look out for noises..and the SWR tweeters can be fried, but often its only the bulb/fuse that has gone. Even if its been abused the voice coil assembly can be replaced fairly cheaply (look up Foster or Fostex tweeters). The rat fur often looks pretty rough after 20 years (esp if a cover hasn't been used), but brush it with a nylon scrubbing brush and it usually revives pretty well. A very good stand alone full range cab, as long as you can shift it (and need something that big!).

Try running a cable from effects send to return...

Nice...have a look at Mambo amps, a UK made amp of similar design. I got one last year and its done almost every gig since (BG and Double bass) but its primarily a jazz guitar amp..much like the old Polytone is its concept . I had the same problem with a cover, but I plastered the delivery box in gaffer tape (cut off the bottom and made a slot for the handle) and ten months later its still going strong!

Could be the cable but my guess would be a dirty contact - either a jack socket (input) or sometimes power/battery connector. I've got two preamp/DI's currently making unpleasant noises, and both are the battery box contacts.

Front of house can get upset if they know you're sending a post eq signal...but often the objection is based on a pre-judgement that you will be using heavy handed eq (lots of boost...no mids...too much treble etc) and also changing your settings all night. Neither has to be true. The engineer really wants to know that they are dealing with a fairly neutral tone to start with, and that it won't keep changing during the performance, when they have lots of other things to be looking (and hopefully listening) out for. Dry is another term for pre-eq and Wet is another term for post-eq. You sometimes also see Direct used for pre-eq and Line for post -eq. There is no problem with sending an already active bass into another preamp/DI, but you should be careful with the eq settings through your chosen signal chain. Don't boost or cut too much and everything will be fine. Your aim is a set up you like the sound of and can then forget about and get on with the playing.

A soft HB pencil will help keep things smooth - just pencil over the screw thread before you fit the new string. Sometimes although the ball end fits, the wrapped wire in front can stop it dropping in properly - usually an extra twist or squeeze will tidy it up.

Remember the Sansamp(s) can be foot-switched switched into a simple "unaffected" DI (and sounds great), but also has the effected options, should you ever need them.

I'd agree with that - if you are going ampless, then a preamp/DI is a better bet as it gives you many more options and will probably provide a more "realistic" sound for the PA. Any of the Sansamps..or Aguilar Tone Hammer or Sadowsky etc Pick them up used and you can try a few out to see which you like, then sell any you don't get on with.

With an active bass straight into the active DI you should be fine...might need to use the input pad, but that's all. Where you may have problems is using a line level output from an amp or preamp - then you might run out of headroom and make horrible noises. Remember it will need power (battery, phantom or adapter). With a passive DI you won't have any headroom issues, but you also won't get the best sound plugging a passive bass direct into it...but you can plug the same passive bass into any preamp/amp and then run the passive DI from that. I'd just buy the passive DI, and carry it everywhere!

[attachment=172996:IMG_0967.JPG] Here's a bit of the old stuff....XLR input anyone? Good luck to any future developments, I'd love to see the original concept (studio preamp with PA power) brought up to date with lighter cab design and better drivers..

I've used the nickels - nice strings, but the E never seems as lively as the others. Only used the steels once (yonks ago) but remember the E as being dull and I didn't like the rougher feel of stainless. I think of the Picato nickels as a cheaper alternative to DR Sunbeams...and always wondered why shops never used to stock them. I only buy online these days, and rarely change strings.

You could just put a flat active circuit in (Redeemer?) and get the most out of what is already there? The EMG expander is an option, but not sure if your existing knobs will fit the pot..and it is a bit crude by modern standards.

I took the back cover off mine years ago. Have a look at the end block/body join (bolted) and see if its pulled forward a mm or two - mine did over the first few years, which left the rod rubbing on the back plate cover when you retracted it. I also put a slight bend into the rod to try and stop it touching the back plate - slight improvement, but not a fix. I've got one of Ben's wooden end pins to try, which comes out of the bass..but I got the size of the rod wrong and haven't got it sorted yet.....

You should qualify for some sort of award Rick...or just declare your house a Museum of Fine Fender Artifacts. Amazing.

I hear you...its frustrating. Have a cuppa. But before you give up, the eq on the EA amps is good so have a fiddle...cut the low end (!) push up the mids, take the treble down, see what you can do. Play with the eq flat for a good ten minutes. Try running another preamp into the effects return. If its any use, I've always found the older EA cabs a bit harsh and edgy with a Realist. I have three cabs, and a few combos....is there any other way?

No idea, but I wouldn't think the Aux input went to the DI with your bass signal. Two other thoughts - the SF[x] guy (Max?) on here could put something together, or may already have something that does what you want. Also, the Nashville solution used to be a system called MOR-Me (or something similar) which enabled bass players to add themselves to an existing monitor mix to suit...may be worth a search to see what that was.