BassBod

Front of house can get upset if they know you're sending a post eq signal...but often the objection is based on a pre-judgement that you will be using heavy handed eq (lots of boost...no mids...too much treble etc) and also changing your settings all night. Neither has to be true. The engineer really wants to know that they are dealing with a fairly neutral tone to start with, and that it won't keep changing during the performance, when they have lots of other things to be looking (and hopefully listening) out for. Dry is another term for pre-eq and Wet is another term for post-eq. You sometimes also see Direct used for pre-eq and Line for post -eq. There is no problem with sending an already active bass into another preamp/DI, but you should be careful with the eq settings through your chosen signal chain. Don't boost or cut too much and everything will be fine. Your aim is a set up you like the sound of and can then forget about and get on with the playing.

A soft HB pencil will help keep things smooth - just pencil over the screw thread before you fit the new string. Sometimes although the ball end fits, the wrapped wire in front can stop it dropping in properly - usually an extra twist or squeeze will tidy it up.

Remember the Sansamp(s) can be foot-switched switched into a simple "unaffected" DI (and sounds great), but also has the effected options, should you ever need them.

I'd agree with that - if you are going ampless, then a preamp/DI is a better bet as it gives you many more options and will probably provide a more "realistic" sound for the PA. Any of the Sansamps..or Aguilar Tone Hammer or Sadowsky etc Pick them up used and you can try a few out to see which you like, then sell any you don't get on with.

With an active bass straight into the active DI you should be fine...might need to use the input pad, but that's all. Where you may have problems is using a line level output from an amp or preamp - then you might run out of headroom and make horrible noises. Remember it will need power (battery, phantom or adapter). With a passive DI you won't have any headroom issues, but you also won't get the best sound plugging a passive bass direct into it...but you can plug the same passive bass into any preamp/amp and then run the passive DI from that. I'd just buy the passive DI, and carry it everywhere!

[attachment=172996:IMG_0967.JPG] Here's a bit of the old stuff....XLR input anyone? Good luck to any future developments, I'd love to see the original concept (studio preamp with PA power) brought up to date with lighter cab design and better drivers..

I've used the nickels - nice strings, but the E never seems as lively as the others. Only used the steels once (yonks ago) but remember the E as being dull and I didn't like the rougher feel of stainless. I think of the Picato nickels as a cheaper alternative to DR Sunbeams...and always wondered why shops never used to stock them. I only buy online these days, and rarely change strings.

You could just put a flat active circuit in (Redeemer?) and get the most out of what is already there? The EMG expander is an option, but not sure if your existing knobs will fit the pot..and it is a bit crude by modern standards.

I took the back cover off mine years ago. Have a look at the end block/body join (bolted) and see if its pulled forward a mm or two - mine did over the first few years, which left the rod rubbing on the back plate cover when you retracted it. I also put a slight bend into the rod to try and stop it touching the back plate - slight improvement, but not a fix. I've got one of Ben's wooden end pins to try, which comes out of the bass..but I got the size of the rod wrong and haven't got it sorted yet.....

You should qualify for some sort of award Rick...or just declare your house a Museum of Fine Fender Artifacts. Amazing.

I hear you...its frustrating. Have a cuppa. But before you give up, the eq on the EA amps is good so have a fiddle...cut the low end (!) push up the mids, take the treble down, see what you can do. Play with the eq flat for a good ten minutes. Try running another preamp into the effects return. If its any use, I've always found the older EA cabs a bit harsh and edgy with a Realist. I have three cabs, and a few combos....is there any other way?

No idea, but I wouldn't think the Aux input went to the DI with your bass signal. Two other thoughts - the SF[x] guy (Max?) on here could put something together, or may already have something that does what you want. Also, the Nashville solution used to be a system called MOR-Me (or something similar) which enabled bass players to add themselves to an existing monitor mix to suit...may be worth a search to see what that was.

3 Leaf Enabler should do it...but won't do any overdriven sounds, should you need them.

Probably different pickups and preamp - the old GMT pickups were made by Kent Armstrong. Worth asking Rob Green, as I guess they have changed their moulding process a bit over the years as well.

DR Sunbeams. Give them a week or two...and relax..

Nice...I do hope it runs on batteries...and you can see the tuner display in daylight..

I thought mine was great, but I never really used it with a modern micro amp, as intended. I used an SWR Electric Blue which has a fairly hard edge to it that needed rounding out..but then it worked a treat for both upright (Realist pickup) or any bass guitar. It is a very accurate and articulate speaker with real low end. Mine was a composite version, and it did seem a bit fragile to me. On balance, I think a ply cab is probably worth it for a few additional pounds in weight. The other slight issue I have is with long term use, any cab designed around a very specific (or unusual) driver may be difficult to repair in the future..when that particular driver is no longer in production. I'd rather use gear that has more generic speakers that are more easily replaced. A minor point, I know but it did occur to me with the Crazy 8.

Looks great..

A simple "no, that not ok for me" there are plenty of other options, and the other players will have their own equipment (and could get it to the venue, same as you). Not your responsibility. This is what hire gear is for...