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  1. Interested in the attack decay if you decide to sell that on eventually
  2. It's nuts that fender would put out such a confusing image!? I would also take that to be asymmetrical. I don't see how another other conclusion can be made! That imagine indicates that a "modern C" would be asymmetrical - and I don't believe that is the case. I find their explanations so frustrating - what then is a "60s C" in comparison to a "Modern C" and "Slim C"? These terms are all used, but never actually defined with measurements. I'm assuming that they can all be 1.5" at the nut (i.e. a jazz), and I know that they refer to the shape of the profile (so, not to be confused with "A", "B", "C" necks - which is always a confusing tangent). So, these "modern", "60s" and "slim" terms must refer to the depth from fretboard to back of the neck, and how that tapers from fret 1 to fret ~21. Would love to know those depth dimensions - and specifically which is the skinniest at the 1st fret.
  3. These are amazing! This is a steal. GLWTS
  4. Hi All, This is a topic which comes up a fair bit - but I couldn't find a consensus. Does anybody happen to know if the necks on the current Mustang Vintera/American Performer/PJ are interchangeable with their respective bodies? In other words, can a Vintera body have an American Performer neck? (There is method in this madness, eventually). I'm assuming that the neck heel and neck pocket dimensions would be compatible? Secondly, are the necks of the Mustangs/Musicmasters/Broncos all switchable within reason as well? I have a few projects lined up, but I'm no luthier. And when I meet one to discuss an idea, I try to keep the number of times I look woefully ignorant/their eye-rolling to a minimum. Thanks!
  5. This looks class. Could you comment on the width at the nut, and then the depth of the neck at the first fret? I believe that these have a "60s C shape" - which I *think* would make this typical P width at the nut, but then slightly slimmer in profile? Thanks and best of luck with the sale.
  6. Really helpful all. Many thanks. I suppose the frustration is the inconsistency between how these things are written between websites. Also "60s C" "modern C" and "1963 C" don't really help, when you don't know what they're describing/referring too! It just means they're different, and it's a right challenge figuring it out. (I'm looking for the slimmest neck front to back, i.e. depth) Ta muchly. I don't have calipers but when I return home I'll upload a picture of the nut width/neck depth on my American Performer and also my 1970s Mustang.
  7. BUMP for this question - I'd like to know how slim/chunky the Vintera neck is compared to other Mustangs (JMJ or PJ or American Performer etc)
  8. Bought a EHX pedal off AxelF. Shipped the next day and was great to communicate with. Sorted.
  9. I'd very much like to mess around far too much with my setup (possibly in anger) now I'm in lockdown. So, PM'd. Give me the gift of such anger
  10. Looks amazing. Is that an ebony board? Or just really dark rosewood?!
  11. You're a hero - thanks for checking that out. OK, so looking at the FS-6, the centre output jack seems to sum the TRS signal in some way? That's a process that I don't quite understand, but thought I had problem solved by splitting my normally closed external tap tempo lead into a separate ring and sleeve connector (i.e. this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01KA7V9CA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) - however this either did nothing, or activated the "hold" function. I wonder if there's a way I can do this without purchasing the FS-6 or 7. This is because my external tap tempo has multiple outputs which connect to other pedals on the board too - and I'd rather keen everything on one tapped tempo to sync properly etc. Anybody know what they mean by "A+B" on the FS-6?
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