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Or look for a 2nd hand Steinberger copy 'cricket bat' from the 80s by Hohner (B2) or others (the wooden through-neck versions). You might have to strip out the electronics, but the actual cricket bat part should still be fine.

When I was 7-8, my best friends dad used to make steam engines, He'd do everything including making the tiny nuts and bolts. It could take him 10-12 years in his little shed and little lathe. His last project was a flat four engine based on the original engine that was supposed to go in the Morris Minor. The engine that did go in was a more normal straight and upright four. This is why the engine bay in an old Morris Minor is so wide and why you could drop a somewhat large engine in to play with, you needed to upgrade the mounts but a small V8 has been made to fit. This useless fact was brought to you by Car Nerds 2025 Rob

Ibanez is probably your easy off the shelf option and comes in under a £1000. Its fretless but does have lines on the top of the board so technically a lined fretless. It also only comes as a 5 string option. Very good basses and I'd love one if it wasn't lined.

I've fitted a few cabs now with 'Fender' cloth sourced from China, which appears to be identical with the cloth sold by the specialist dealers in the UK. What i didn't realise was that many of the 'Fender' cloths are shrink to fit. A bit of a shame as I warmed mine up to make it more flexible and it didn't fit after that. Fortunately I did buy enough for a spare. It's a joy to fit as you don't have to tension it as you staple. Just fit it nice and straight and let the hair dryer pull it into shape. Oddly they don't tell you the cloth is shrink fit so you'd have to test a small piece before fitting it. The 'Marshall' cloth is the old fashioned stiff stuff and much harder to work with http://www.kldguitar.com/Home/cph is where I ordered my cloth

I know why I do.... I can thank my dad

Definitely an option, not sure how the Armacab would work here, is it so thick that it would stay in place, or would it ooze? Its very cold here and very wet so can't really test anything. T'other half has made it very clear, no painting or cab work in the house under any circumstances Rob

By out of date I mean big rigs in general. Anyone who is regularly playing venues big enough to warrant having something of this size will almost certainly be using IEMs for monitoring and the FoH feed will at best be taken from the DI out on the head. So that's a huge 8x10 cab doing essentially nothing for the sound but taking up space on stage and in the band transport. Maybe the head would be worth using if it is possible to run it into a power soak with the FoH feed taken at the speaker outputs, but I'm sure there are smaller and lighter devices that will be able to achieve the same sound in a band mix. I just don't see who would realistically want to have one and actually use it nowadays.

It depends on how far the envelope is pushed from whats already known. The resonancy peaks become more pronounced the less stiff the core is. Its possible to fill with resin and other materials but the proportions could vary according to resin content and any filler material. And the filler material would have some frequency dampening properties. Rob Green mentioned once in person to me that tbe Stealth 2 used an epoxy foam core. Not sure if the core was preshaped and wrapped or the foam was injected into a hollow shell.

Let 'em come, im playing keys 😂

What about using the sacrificial bolts idea, but take them out immediately after you finish the painting of the armacab, while it’s still wet?

Bass Police are coming for you.

The Affinity is 32", but the legendary Squier Vintage Modified Short Scale is definitely 30".

About 10 years ago there was a run of short scale P/J Squiers. They are very good basses. I regret selling mine. They do suffer from neck dive but not as bad as the medium scale humbucker versions.

I'm getting to the stage when I'm going to coat the cab in Armacab. However I want to make sure I understand some options here. I'm going to add in two mounting blocks for the Warwick Gnome amp on the back of the cab and on the top of the cab, so the Gnome can be positioned on the back or on the top. It's just to add some flexibility This is the drill guide, a quick hack TBH. I would drill 4mm holes here and then use an M3 pronged T-nut on the inside of the cab to allow the countersunk screws to bolt into the T-Nut. Not a fan of simple screws here. Now I'm trying to work out the order of doing this work. Where I have done this before, which is for the Fane speaker, the front port and back panel, I would drill the right size hole, put the t-nut at the back into the hole, so an M3 T-Nut requires an M4 hole. I would then drill an M4 hole in a scrap piece of wood, put a long M3 bolt through the scrap wood with a heavy duty washer and then through the hole in the cab into the T-Nut. I would then tighten the M3 bolt up, it would tighten against the scrap wood and slowly pull the T-Nut into the inside of the cabinet, the scrap wood would protect the outside of the cabinet as I put quite a lot of force on it. If I do all of this before I paint with Armacab, then I will need to protect the holes I've drilled so Armacab doesn't go in them. I can easily put some sacrificial bolts through the holes to protect them, However never used Armcab before so not sure, if the Armacab would splinter if I then took the sacrificial bolts out, when the armacab is dried. OR should I paint the cabinet with Armcab for a few coats and then drill the holes afterwards. Would putting the scrapwood on damage the surface of the Armacab. Could I even drill through the Armacab, not sure how tough it is. I can test it but it might a few days to dry so am now into "Paralysis by Analysis" as I work through what my options are. Any thoughts welcomed. Rob

If the neck is ringing, some foam could dampen those frequencies. Most likely requires (lots of) testing.