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I have the one which was sold at Bass Bros recently. I added a tort pickguard as not the greatest fan of block colour scratch plates! I had seen one at Bass Gallery which was Birdseye maple and I have seen another with rosewood go through Bass Bros too. All I know is it’s a great bass, vintage feeling neck and some great electronics. Loving position 2 ( single coil-p style) and 4 ( Lakland voicing- three coils).

One of the greatest, we ventured down to London to see him performing with Hiromi in 2015 and it really didn't disappoint!! What a legend!

A titan of the bass guitar, and probably my all-time favourite bass player. Irreplaceable, unique, a one-off, the genuine article. Anthony was a true virtuoso of the instrument, no one else comes close to him in my opinion. I'm properly upset by this news.

I hope it turns out that way in the flesh. It's guitar spacing, so play it (guitar) finger style, but with some practice trad bass finger style, and even slapping can be used. I will when it does. I don't put a lot of stock in LEL's reviews. Hope you get to try one out. I do love basses and guitars, but as a born again Christian, I will pass on the latter.

I read somewhere that one rosewood and one maple Sledge Sabre were officially imported but that's not to say there weren't any brought over here privately. Case in point being I know of one other Sledge Sabre with a maple board which has come up for sale a couple of times the last few years as well. Sledge is a brilliant colour - under lights/sunlight it really pops.

Sounds about right to me I've often seen acoustic performers humping a pair or more of large Marshall stacks around with them and plugging their Tanglewood acoustic guitars in. Does it say what it needs for "metal"? Asking for a friend Rob

Or just buy a Gnome/Elf and use that with the Monza.

Chathpt wins! Good question — the **recommended wattage for a guitarist playing in a pub** depends on a few factors: the size of the venue, whether you’re mic’ing the amp through a PA, and what kind of tone you want. Here’s a breakdown to help you decide: --- ### 🎸 **If the amp is mic’d through the PA system** * **Recommended wattage:** **15–30 watts (tube)** or **30–50 watts (solid state)** * **Reason:** The PA will handle most of the volume for the audience, so you only need enough stage volume to hear yourself and blend with the band. * **Example amps:** Fender Blues Junior (15W), Vox AC15, Orange Rocker 15, Boss Katana 50. --- ### 🎶 **If the amp is *not* mic’d (you rely on it to fill the pub)** * **Recommended wattage:** **30–50 watts (tube)** or **60–100 watts (solid state)** * **Reason:** You’ll need more headroom and projection to reach the whole room without distorting (unless you *want* that natural breakup). * **Example amps:** Fender Hot Rod Deluxe (40W), Vox AC30, Marshall DSL40. --- ### 📏 **Rough guide by venue size** | Venue Size | Tube Amp | Solid-State Amp | Notes | | --------------------------- | -------- | --------------- | ------------------------------------- | | Small pub (30–50 people) | 15–20W | 30–50W | Often mic’d; moderate stage volume | | Medium pub (50–100 people) | 30–40W | 50–80W | Enough to carry the room if not mic’d | | Large pub / club (100–200+) | 40–50W+ | 80–100W+ | Mic strongly recommended | --- ### ⚙️ Other factors * **Drummer volume:** Loud drummer = need more headroom. * **Amp type:** Tube amps are louder per watt than solid-state. * **Style of music:** Clean tones need more wattage (for headroom); distorted tones can use less. * **Master volume:** Many modern amps have great tone at lower volume. --- **TL;DR:** > For most pub gigs, a **15–30W tube amp** (or **30–50W solid-state**) is perfect — as long as you can mic it up. > If you can’t, go for around **40–50W tube** (or **80–100W solid-state**). --- Would you like me to recommend specific amp models for your style (e.g., blues, rock, metal, etc.)?

I have to do the hard graft to get to be able to play what I want to. I like being able to play busy basslines, but I'm not going to do them in a half-arsed way. That's not enjoyable to me.

Not cheap, I guess you have to weigh against spending the time & effort. This ebay seller has (or at least had) some replacement parts, so you could try pinging him. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/167855373439 Also contactable via this FB group. https://www.facebook.com/groups/182588378547198

I've had a Fulltone Bass Drive for many years, I think it might match what you're looking for. It has a Tubescreamer-like drive, an additional boost with its own level control, and when switched to the "FM" setting (Full Mids) it doesn't scoop. It has no clean blend, and it sounds great to me. Works on both 9V and 18V, but at 18V the boost is... well, "boosted" quite a bit. I don't think it's currently in their range still, but it can be found used. They've fallen out of grace for a while after mr. Fuller had some debatable opinions on the George Floyd protests, that nearly killed the company entirely. Fulltone had to close their facility in 2022. They're on their way back now after teaming up with Jackson Audio in 2024.

IMO DI boxes should be built in a way that makes them as reliable as possible. To that end I don't approve of anything powered by an external PSU unless it is: 1. Part of a permanent pedal board along with the PSU and all the low voltage cabling. 2. The PSU attaches via a locking connector and the low voltage cable is suitably robust and not bell wire that most manufacturers seem to think is OK. In 45 years of gigging IME the most common point of equipment failure is the low voltage side of equipment that has to be set up and plugged each time it is used.

That's very sad. He was an incredible musician. I was fortunate enough to see him play with Mike Stern in a masterclass at my old uni.

No, there's going to be a sale or two I think to get me down to three basses.

The Sire was £2,180 less than the current price for a new Godin A4 Ultra. The Godin was a lovely sounding bass but it was way too big and heavy for me.

Green Tinted Sixties Mind - Mr Big