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Yeah, also seems to be very crisp and clear. Might have to sharpen up my technique a tad... 😳

They're a lovely amp - not big power but usually enough through the right cab(s).. Mine seems to have no problem working at 8 ohms on the 'extension' output although it usually works at 4 ohms on the 'main' output with it's matching 2x15". The line out is after everything so it's level is proportional to the output level but it really sounds great - I have a cheap passive DI box attached with some velcro in the back so I can use it as a balnced line. Not recently but I've done quite a bit of recording using it.

Looking at the Sire website, I think that is just for the mint paint finish (my least favourite). I think the flamed maple top variants are more attractive and still bound.

I've got the mk1 model with the Gotoh machine heads and it's an excellent bass for the money. I regularly gig it alongside the other 2 mentioned above, both of which would cost you 6-8 times as much, and to be fair to the HB it easily holds its own. It's hard to quantify the respective pickup outputs when you can't blend them - the single biggest gripe with the mk1 model - but it doesn't bother me in the slightest. On mine I've lowered the bridge pickup a touch to give an approximate 60:40 blend of neck to bridge and treat it as the fundamental sound of the bass. (I really like those Roswell pickups too, excellent full range tone for a budget pickup). Being used to single pickup basses this works perfectly for my needs. Even with the bridge pickup sunk a little you can still clearly hear it affecting the tone so on my bass at least the bridge pickup doesn't appear to have a weak output. But at the price point I wouldn't be at all surprised to find a degree of variability in terms of hardware. Maybe I was lucky and got a good one 🤷. I have been eyeing up the mk2, especially in burgundy mist, but the general consensus seems to be the newer budget machine heads and new pickups are a bit crap in comparison to the mk1. But if you're thinking of moving yours on by all means drop me a message 😀

Hi all, I'm shortly going to be stripping and refinishing a Stingray 5. I picked it up quite cheap as it needed a refinish so I am going to be sanding and stripping it myself and then sending it on to someone for a refinish - unless i sand back to the wood and it has a lovely grain then I may consider a tru-oil finish with a poly top coat for a glossy finish. So basically, the (colour) world is my oyster... what would you have? It has a maple neck and fingerboard, natural headstock and currently sports a black scratchplate. I would like to change the hardware for black lightweight options as I like black on a SR5 and it looks a bit tired. With a fresh finish, I would prefer it to look nice and new. So... i don't want a plain black or white finish, if I go solid colour, something funky could be desirable... I do like the look of the new Kiwi Green colour which is now available... What combinations look good in your book for a SR5?

Thanks for stepping in and with a pic. “Contour” was the term I was desperately searching for and just couldn’t retrieve from my age addled memory! Your pic also shows what I was referring to as a belly bulge in that the body is actually a bit thicker right where you would expect a belly cut. It looks a bit odd but it works with the way the bass lies against the body on a strap. For some reason I can’t post pics at the moment, unless the file size is less than 44K! Do we have a personal attachment limit? Sorry for the off-topic question.

Love to know what jazz workshop you went to…

I’m a trustee with CAB here (I’m in Bristol as well) if you need me to put you in touch with anyone for legal advice. This damage is heartbreaking and I’m hoping it can get sorted for you. I guess the good thing with wood is that any damage can be repaired. Best of luck with it.

https://www.campusplastics.com/campus/en/datasheet/TEDUR+L+9107-1/MOCOM+Compounds+GmbH+%26+Co.+KG/5/91e531bc Polymer that has 40 % glass fibre. Injection moldable. Cheap material, but the mold will cost quite some. Most likely easy to machine.

It’s BC, ‘twas ever thus. I was just about to suggest this, whilst reading further up, but you’ve plainly already done it. I find the bridge pickup to be really weak on these, I reckon a GZR set would sort that out nicely, although it would require the fitting of a side jack socket.

It has arrived (no opportunity for test until next week sadly)

High Guys n Gals Just thought it worth asking what material you are Nuts about at the thin end of your finger board. I, like most of you have experienced most types of bass nut materials on many different basses over time. Bone was favoured by luthiers and still is by many. Mass production saw us given a hard Nylon material by the likes of Fender, some of these were changed after market with Brass nuts. Some manufacturers started out with brass nuts. Warwick introduced us to Bell Brass frets, and adjust a nut. I, II, III Are you happy with your strings and ultimately your tone balancing on two little screws? I have liked all the basses i have had with a Zero fret, and a string guide only nut. It seems a logical long term solution. The open string will sound the same as all other frets, a subject always for debate when other materials are used. We have also seen Graphite nuts and Mamouth TUSK the list goes on, and Now :- Having just purchased a Sadowsky bass with Tedur nut, I am thinking , what the hell is TEDUR, interesting that that German Sadowsky's by Warwick use this too but in the Just-A-nut III format, where Roger in NYC is keeping his TEDUR firmly routed to the wood ? Any thoughts on your NUTS ? Below is what i found out about TEDUR. A low thermal expansion coefficient that is comparable to aluminum as well as high rigidity mean that TEDUR® is highly suitable as a replacement for metal. Aluminum has already been replaced by TEDUR® in many applications, such as a mounting frame for driver assistance cameras. The camera lens bracket must have a high level of dimensional stability and rigidity, so that the lens is not affected by driving or due to warping. However, TEDUR® is useful as more than just a replacement for metal. Its excellent hydrolysis and chemical resistance, even at high temperatures, are the basis for using TEDUR® in cooling systems, for example in pump components, pump valves or extruded pipes. Cooling circuits, in particular, are becoming ever more important due to e-mobility and the increasing demands placed on materials. Especially with regard to battery cooling, there are much higher requirements compared to a standard combustion engine. While the relatively robust power units previously needed to be cooled mainly when in driving mode, power storage units are more sensitive to increased temperatures and must be cooled both when in driving mode (unloading) and also during charging. Materials used in the cooling circuit are therefore exposed to loads for significantly longer periods, and must be replaced by more resistant materials. The long-lasting resistance of TEDUR® is therefore important so that extruded pipes, pumps and valves continue to function reliably even after many years of use. Over to you for comment.

I haven't got the ampeg cab, only the V4B I have other cabs to use but I have these neos that I'd like to use

Whenever I’ve bought foam I used eFoam, decent company with good prices & service, they should be able to help

I've been doing that with bikes for decades - I've had one bike that's been my favourite since 1993, except only the rear derailleur is left from the original bike, and I bought that in about 1997 to replace the original... But it's definitely still the same bike in its inner essence.

Nice, I tried one years ago, they’ve a really deep rich tone to them

FGTH played Two Tribes, with more or less the same arrangement as the recorded version, on John Peel in 1982, before they got involved with Trevor Horn and ZTT. The band, outside of Johnson and Rutherford, did not play at all on the album version - it was all session players.