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There's one of these available for sale at the minute

It could be being driven by lightweight equipment. I initially bought a lightweight amp and kept my old one as a spare. I've now bought a lightweight 10" cab and would be looking at selling my cabs if I upgraded them, but probably keep the amp.

I have an ampeg ba115hp combo amp. It had a squeal that kept getting louder and louder. The longer it was plugged in. Anyway I fixed the squeal. Now I don't get any noise from this amp when I plug in my bass. Could anyone please help figure out where them wires should be? Thank you in advance for the help. I

Do whatever you can to remove sources of anxiety other than the performance itself - so get clothes ready the night before, have a good night's sleep (if you can), and on the day make sure all the gear is working and set up how you want it well in advance of playing.

The only way to find the amp that suits you is to take your cab(s) to a shop or two and try some out. You need to find the amp that makes the sound you like with your chosen instrument and cab, whether or not it's considered "hi-fi". Unless an amp has no eq or it's eq can be switched completely out of circuit, you cannot be certain that it is "hi-fi" because you are hearing the designer's preferences even with eq set nominally flat. In my experience, bass amps claimed to be "hi-fi" tend to have slightly boosted lows and highs and a recessed midrange, which gives the impression of clarity, but isn't "hi-fi" in the true sense. They sound great in the shop, home and studio at moderate volumes, but can tend to fall a bit flat in a live band context, unless they have enormous power on tap and you have some serious monitor-type cabs. Nothing like a bit of a low-mid bump to cut through a mix, hence the enduring popularity of the P bass.

Fender American Performer PJ? https://www.gear4music.com/Guitar-and-Bass/Fender-American-Performer-Precision-Bass-MN-Satin-Lake-Placid-Blue/2R9X

"You've got five seconds to look at this Warwick 6-string. Then draw it from memory."

It means we're full of cr@p and not ashamed to say it.

I think transparent has not the same meaning to everyone, to me, it means, first of all, no compression and no signal modification or tone colouring. The MarkBass heads are not transparent at all and have a huge emphasis in the low mids region and a tendency to compression. The Quilter BassBlock is certainly not transparent at all and colouring the sound a lot with lot if compression when turning the master up. Just like @Linus27 and you @andyhaines I'm a fretless player and like a dead flat tone coming from the amplification part, so I have tested as many amps as I could and often those upon recommendation were so disappointing as people ignore what transparency means. The other thing that drives me mad is fan noise, so it has even narrowed the search a lot more, otherwise I would recommend instantly the Bugera Veyron 1001 M (not the T version). I also like a cabinet to be as transparent as possible, hence the use of FRFR stuff over a quite long period. Now, I'm not gigging anymore as the bass duet is over since March and, at 60 years old, I'm fed up by the musicians egocentric personality, so I now play through my soundcard into my calibrated speakers, which is the best tone I've ever had, but it also shows how bad most instruments are...

Seen many cabs for sale in the BC classifieds but so few amps Is this a trend ?

I was given one of those and I was stretchered out. Unbeknownst to me I had a very low heart rate and a beta blocker put me into “not sure how you’re still alive” territory

The only way to find out whether a business will work is to try it. It wouldn't cost a lot to place a few ad's, play one of your creations in public to attract attention, etc. Whether offering Fender clones to an already crowded market would work is debatable. There are dozens of firms doing the same and they are going to be able to undercut a one man band via economies of scale, manufacturing in low wage economies, etc. Even at the budget end of things, because Fenders and similar bolt together with around 50 screws, players will often make their own Bitsas (I and many on here have). It's easy enough to buy bodies and necks from firms like Warmoth (or cheaper Chinese stuff), chuck in a pickup or two and pots and make a few solder connections. Buyers looking for higher priced instruments will tend to buy US or even Custom Shop Fenders, because they can be more certain they will retain residual value. No harm in trying, though. If you build to order, you won't have to buy a load of parts and components on spec.

I could post a link confirming this story but the answer will shock you! Watch till the end ! And so on, Click bait, etc 😄

The old school approach is better. Only two words needed for your endearing bad mates:

There are two types of gold plating, hard and soft. The hard type uses alloying metals and underplating to achieve high wear resistance. Neutrik use hard plating on at least some of their jack connectors.

Three Times A Lady - The Commodores