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I owned a later 715 peavey era GP7 amp with the BF-4 foot switch ( there was also a BF-6 for GP12's, both with the DIN multi cable). I seem to recall that the best way to set up was to connect the foot switch before powering up and also ensure all the switches or buttons were in the off/out position on the amp front panel and not to use the front panel buttons at all while things were powered on. Slightly off topic but the same thing applied to Ashdown's remote foot switch for ABM heads, always connect before powering up and leave all front panel buttons in the out position.

I got the MXR Bass Synth! Chuffed!

@police squad

Turn to Red Leb - Killing Joke

Let's jazz things up a bit. 8/4 & 6/4 Larry Coryell - Low-lee-tah | Bass: Danny Trifan

£414.70 including buyers proetection fee. Thats a steal for at twice the price rig like this (with a proper foam suspended case for the head as well). Yes of course its too big and too heavy and you'll probably never need to turn it up anywhere past ten o'clock but still, what a machine. It's kind of like a Harley-Davidson. Utterly unnecesary but really quite wonderful. Or I suppose thats how motorbike owners feel about them? Not one myself so theres an element of speculation there...

I tidy cales away using the 'figure of eight' method; I finish by lifting it up from each side (left and right...), and put a Velcro band around it to keep it as a loop. No tangles, no twists. Works with all types of cables, and garden hoses. Hope this helps.

Possibly. Peavey are marketing it as a pro amp (complete with extremely expensive speaker cabs with built-in “road cases”), with the much less powerful Elf as the consumer-level version. They need something in between, but I’m not sure they’re selling the numbers of the TE-1200 to make the business case for it. Also, Peavey’s distribution in the UK is pretty bad these days. It used to be that literally every music shop in the UK had a big pile of Peavey gear, and every rehearsal room had a TKO or TNT combo in the corner next to the drums. Not any more. They’re not nearly as ubiquitous as they used to be. Peavey has never been cool, but it’s always been solid, reliable (if a bit vanilla-sounding) gear that will still be in full working order for the cockroaches to play through after a nuclear war! I love mine - it’s got a “weight” to it that most Class D heads don’t have. It doesn’t sound like a Class D, it sounds much closer to a proper old Trace with a big toroidal transformer. I have a few small-ish issues with it, but it’s never given me any problems and I hope Peavey continue to do good things with the brand - it’s got a legacy that it needs to live up to.

Roach Clip - SACK

Around half the pedals in my collection invert phase, so you could still potentially have an issue if you’d ever be turning a boost pedal on or off for example on one of the boards.

Having a quick search I’ve found a few on the Rick Resource site that are listed as AutumnGlo from 1982 also. So I’m really unsure what colour it actually is. This one is listed as a December 1982, which is exactly the same as mine. I wonder in the weird and wonderful world of Rickenbacker if they did a special run of colours. https://www.rickresource.com/register/viewitem.php?id=17392&bl=%2Fregister%2Findex.php%3Fsearch%3Dtrue%26model%3D41%26strings%3D0%26special%3D0%26finish%3D4%26def_state%3D%26country%3D%26year%3D1982%26month%3D%26sn%3D%26celebrity%3D

I’m looking at finding a bass chair in a tribute act. I have: Kit ✅ Chops ✅ Huge gigging experience ✅ Learn fast/read tab fluently ✅ Is there a password/inter-sanctum initiation that has to be overcome before the opportunities become apparent? The ‘usual’ musicians wanted sites seem to yield close to nothing… Anyone with advice/knowledge/password, willing to share wisdom? Mark

Normal crappy Jazz scratchplate but more decorative control plate.

Go wireless, problem solved.

I was trying to find the original diagram that I worked from and didn't, and I didn't download it either which is annoying. However, I did find another reference page which shows clearly what I did, as I do have text notes to tell me what connections to make. I should have checked those wiring diagrams properly against what I used. https://www.stewmac.com/video-and-ideas/online-resources/learn-about-guitar-pickups-and-electronics-and-wiring/blend-pot-wiring/ My notes definitely say to connect the crossovered non-hot ends to ground. If you compare that to a V/V/T setup, the pickups are loaded exactly the same - at one end of travel the pickup hot goes to ground, from the halfway point to the opposite end the pickup hot is straight to volume hot, and in between fully off and the centre point there is a varying amount of resistance. https://www.stewmac.com/video-and-ideas/online-resources/learn-about-guitar-pickups-and-electronics-and-wiring/learn-about-wiring-stewmac-pickups/stewmac-bass-pickup-wiring-diagrams/ - second diagram

Dopesmoker - Sleep

Only had first hand experience with the L2500, but I would pick it any day of the week and twice on Sundays over any J bass. Why? Well, the purely personal answer is that I despise J basses. MFD pickups sound amazing. If you *really* want a single coil sound from the L2500, you can mod it to provide that with inner or outer coils by changing one selector switch. The G&L bridge is fabulous, apart from the saddle lock feature, it has lovely rounded edges which make it a joy for palm muting at the bridge - no sticky out bits anywhere. I love Sire basses (I've owned two - had a D5, still have a Z7), it'll be a fine bass, but the V is a J bass and so as far as I'm concerned, it can get in the bin.

2001 Spliff Odyssey - Thievery Corporation

Happy Boxing Day to all ! Bored with Christmas TV 😴 ? Does anyone out there have any first hand experience comparing these two basses ? If both basses were fretted 5 string, maple fretboard models, regardless of year of manufacture, given the choice, which one would you opt for and why ?

@Hellzero is right. I want to use the UMC1820 interface as the hub. I have an electric piano (stereo), synth module (stereo), bass guitar input, and a microphone, two midi channels, plus the PC, all plugged into the UMC1820. Moreover, I still have two spare input channels too. The UMC1820 acts as a midi device for the purpose of Musescore too (Cubase was too complicated for me).