All Activity

Simply because there are active basses (with higher output level and low impedance) and passive basses (with lower output and high impedance), and these two inputs are better adapted to each of them electronically speaking.

We are waiting to hear what @funkle reckons about his, when it arrives. My personal experience of two Monzas, is that they are completely FRFR and it looks like the Goodwood has been designed with the same parameters, just less power handling. The Monzas reproduce exactly what you put into them with amazing projection and sensitivity. An added bonus is that you can hear yourself, even when close to the cab.

If you expect to change pickups, get a Squier 40th Anniversary (if you can find one). If you want a vintage 60s sound you won't need to change a thing.

Freeze Frame - J Geils Band

I've been considering a BF One10T for a while now to use primarily at home and low volume gigs. I love the BF 12" FRFR cabs for their clarity which I find perfect for my alembics, and do wonder whether the One10T may be too 'voiced' in contrast as i have no affinity to vintage or classic bass gear. So, these LFsys Goodwood cabs seem interesting as they claim to be FRFR speakers and might just be the ticket. I will be watching this thread with interest and holding my cash until I can make a good informed choice.

First time at the Crown in Rugeley last night. Car parking was rather random, there's a sort of car park at the back but it doesn't have any markings (or, indeed, tarmac) so cars just get dumped there in a haphazard way. The space was distinctly petite and bijou, so when the second guitarist arrived fashionably late there was nowhere for his cab so he went through the PA. TBH I'd prefer it if both guitars went through the PA but the singer/guitarist wants to use his cab. While we were setting up, before guitar 2 got there, one lad started chatting to the singer/guitarist - he'd got various guitars so they were comparing notes. A bit later, after I'd rigged the PA, a rather more elderly bassist came over to chat to me. Which was nice. Took until about halfway through the first set for more than very faint ripples of polite applause but once things started going, we got a much more positive reaction.

You may be confusing the DynaBass ,which Tim Landers helped design, with his TL-5. The DynaBass and the 1st generation TL-5 share the same electronics and bridge. However where the DynaBass had both Schaller tuners and Schaller 3D bridges the 1st gen TL-5 only got the Schaller bridge. Neither 1st or 2nd generation TL-5s had 'open gear' tuners, always mini tuners like Gotoh GB-7 & GB-707. They may have used actual Gotoh though it's not guaranteed, Peavey used Korean Gotoh copies for their premier model the US Cirrus. For the 2nd generation TL-5, Peavey moved from the Schaller 3D to an unbranded bridge. I'm almost certain these were sourced from ABM in Germany. The black bridge on that green bass is an ABM bridge or a copy of one. Peavey used those bridges on the Cirrus and some later year 2nd gen TL-5s shipped with them. Reason for the change was more practical than economic. 1st generation TL-5s had Peavey's Super Ferrite pickups. Designed for 4 string basses, they were not quite wide enough for a 5 string bass 😞 The Schaller bridge allowed players to tighten up string spacing for a more even signal. The 2nd gen came with an actual 5 string pickup which rendered adjustable string spacing obsolete 👍 There's a good chance that green bass has a stock bridge and tuners. The 'rugby ball' jack socket plate is an addition, the original bass had a Switchcraft barrel socket. Like all barrel jack sockets it will have failed and I imagine some damage occurred while replacing it; hence the cover plate. Knobs are 1/4" (6.35mm) solid shaft for the Vol and Balance, 1/4" with 1/8" top shaft for the tone pots. If any pots fail I would look at replacing the entire EQ rather than attempting to solder new pot to the PCB. Looing at your photos I think somebody has already tampered with the EQ section. You should have 2 dual pots, Hi/Low and Mid shift/Mid +/- . Could you provide a photo of the control cavity ? OP's bass is from early/mid 90's😀 Obligatory photo of my TL basses 🙂

My perpetual rig of choice - Tecamp Puma 900, GR Bass AT212, and as I also do the PA, Behringer XR18 with a cheeky peek of the Zoom MS-60B+ on top of it, with external router and BCF2000 and Nokia T20 tablet for handy control.

90 minutes ? luxury! I’m lucky to get that in a month … which explains my attainment level do it until your attention wanders

Is this a stupid question but why the 2 inputs? (Active & passive basses)?🤷‍♂️ why would you?

As the title says. I'm managing around 9o mins on a week day, split into 2 lots of 45 mins approx. A little longer at the weekend. Does prepping for a gig, up the auntie?

Not at all. Vantage VP-710B since the early 80's I have bought, and still have, other basses: 5 & 6 strings, fretless, acoustic, ukulele and doublebass. But i always go back to my Vantages.

How long have you been playing, have you worked out any bad habits now?

Sounds like a BBC3 drama.

Here comes the pedal board section of the thread 🤣

TC Spark does not have to be full on 'drive', it can do very subtle (I have one). I had the MXR and Ampeg Scrambler and I couldn't quite dial them back far enough... on the least setting they were 'almost' too much. As you are on a budget, the TC works BUT you could also look at a Boss MS60B; it has lots of options in one pedal. You could have the aforementioned compressor and/or a bit of OD and/or an amp sim to warm up your signal + you get a tuner and all the other effects for free. All to be had used for about £60.

Appreciate the explanation. I was thinking of getting a compressor anyway. The cali compressor is pricey lol. There are two versions v1 and v2. Would both versions achieve the same thing? down the rabbit hole to look for different warm compressors and demos.